how to get better stability?

[tungularafishcamp]

Cariboo Dave
I found an extra set of full size front rims and bought the smaller set of tires n rims. I cut off the outer part of the extra full size rims, had the welding shop in town roll me some plate so it was slightly smaller than the rim on the little wheel. I welded the rolled plate to the smaller rim after cutting the center out of that and then put the cut out center of the larger rim to the other side of the rolled plate. Had to get longer studs and both wheels now bolt thru the same studs. It works well in the soft but watch it as there is a lot more torque as a couple of bent tie rods will attest to until I learned not to dig into tundra with 4 wheel drive. The fronts don't do much for stability but they sure keep the front end up in sand, mud, and snow.

 

[BC Dave]

Cariboo Dave
I found an extra set of full size front rims and bought the smaller set of tires n rims. I cut off the outer part of the extra full size rims, had the welding shop in town roll me some plate so it was slightly smaller than the rim on the little wheel. I welded the rolled plate to the smaller rim after cutting the center out of that and then put the cut out center of the larger rim to the other side of the rolled plate. Had to get longer studs and both wheels now bolt thru the same studs. It works well in the soft but watch it as there is a lot more torque as a couple of bent tie rods will attest to until I learned not to dig into tundra with 4 wheel drive. The fronts don't do much for stability but they sure keep the front end up in sand, mud, and snow.

your a creative guy.

thanks for the pic and explanation.

Rear dullies are beginngin to make more sense. As you say fornts wount do so much.

have you weighted the tires?

 

[tungularafishcamp]

I originally weighted the outer rear ones but have to take them off to get the tractor in and out of the skiff and they were too darn heavy putting on/off plus never really felt I need the extra weight as the back hoe is on most of the time. I also cracked the center disc on the inner tire, I think now it was defective from factory, and had to add some reinforcing to the disc. Not sure but when the disc cracked I took the antifreeze out and never put it back in and haven't missed it. I cut some reinforcing for the other side but never welded it in and it is still fine.
Rick

 

[rScotty]

I use my old Ferguson TO35 for mowing instead. On hills where the Yanmar scares the bejesus out of me, the much wider tread width of Fergy doesn't even cause me to raise an eyebrow.

Same thing here. For work on hillsides I use an old US made John Deere two cylinder. Both Yanmars have wide turf tires BTW, turf tires come in wide and narrow. The pic below shows the wide ones on a YM336D. Get the wide for stability. Anyway, both Yanmar's are still limited on side hills. But the ancient John Deere farm tractor handles hillsides fine. It's already got a wide stance with the weight down low enough so that here in the mountains I've never found a reason to extend the front axle or move the rear tires all the way out. If I did that it would really, really be wide!

Like a lot of tractors with an adjustable width front axle it has telescoping tie rods too.
rScotty

 

[speedy2]

284 Would you please send me the details of how you built your spools? bobbyjc@ embarqmail.com Thanks!

 

[284 International]

There is a thread about the original Yanmar extenders (designed to increase track width), including specifications, here.

This is my thread about the build, with the only (poor quality) pictures I have of the spools.

As I remember, I used 3 1/2" Schedule 80 pipe (OD is 4"), which gives about 5/16" wall thickness. The end plates are 5/16" mild steel, but it's 1020, so markedly stronger than cheaper A36.

There's not much to explain how I did it, so I'll post it here. Please remember that this is a junkyard build, done literally by soapstone written on concrete to figure things out. It's not the way it ought to be done. Also, while I'm competent at things, I'm not an expert, and don't really have the right tools to do any of this. So, while I may say I did something a certain way, it's only because that's my poor-boy method, not because I actually know what I'm talking about. :laughing:


With a string across the tire sidewalls, I figured out how much length I needed for my spacers to clear, then added 1/2" for sidewall deflection. I wanted them to be tucked as tightly as I could in order to minimize the overall width. Then, I cut the Schedule 80 to length.

I made a stencil out of cardstock to trace the different wheel bolt patterns, then carefully cut it out and traced it onto my 1020 plate. I cut my 4 plates, and marked them for the bolt holes. After flubbing the first one thinking I could do it by eye, I used a compass and basic geometry to locate the precise center of lug bolt holes to center my pilot bit, and the remainder of the holes went very well.

I used the same technique to find the center of the bolt circle (my axis of rotation) and then traced a circle around where the OD of the pipe needed to be. This would let me weld the pipe precisely into place. (Well, as precisely as it needs to be, anyway.) Next, I welded a set of lug bolts through a plate to be the outer end of each spool, then welded that plate onto the pipe.

I welded the other set of plates onto their respective spools, then cleaned and painted them. I bolted them onto the tractor, attached the outer wheel, torqued everything down, and was done.

It took me all afternoon to do, and with that, I had already gotten most of what I needed, and had a game plan. I had enough time to build a 3 point adapter for a 2 point tiller though, while waiting for the paint to dry.

It really was straightforward, but, as in the disclaimer in my other thread, I used tires that were smaller on the outside, the YM2000 is designed for spacers anyway, and I'm not at all a safety ****. :laughing: I'm not afraid of using them, but it's not something that should be a beginning project for someone and their welder.