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lawandorder39
New member
Thanks
How to Install of culvert Pipe on my property
- Thread starter lawandorder39
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crazyal
Super Member
The maximum amount of water you expect to go though it will determine the size. Fill in around the pipe with sand or dirt with no big stones and pack it every couple of inches. Finally make sure you put plenty of fill on top of the pipe. If you plan on building a house then make sure you put at least 10" of gravel on top of an inch or two of the sand on top of the pipe. The small stones in the gravel will help distribute the weight. Do it right once or you'll be doing it a second time when the pipe gets crushed.
forgeblast
Elite Member
Those concrete ends are real nice.
radioman
Super Member
here a introduction info Culvert Installation: All You Need to Know
installing a culvert is not really hard. The 2 biggest factors you want to consider is diameter of pipe vs the height of ditch. If pipe is too big, you wont have enough dirt covering the pipe and it will crush under construction equipment crossing it. If it too small, you will have water drainage issues.
The second thing you want to consider is the width of the main road off from your entrance you want to put in.if the culvert is not long enough,and the road is narrow, you will have issues with trailers entering your driveway. Even a simple 8 ft long single axle trailer can be a issue when making that turn onto your driveway. Are you planning to build a house? who is delivering the materials on private road? will they use a flatbed/bunny truck or a tractor trailer? I cant count the number of times I heard or saw issues of trucks trying to deliver things and they cant make the turns or need to use creative driving into the driveways because of the length/curves.
installing a culvert is not really hard. The 2 biggest factors you want to consider is diameter of pipe vs the height of ditch. If pipe is too big, you wont have enough dirt covering the pipe and it will crush under construction equipment crossing it. If it too small, you will have water drainage issues.
The second thing you want to consider is the width of the main road off from your entrance you want to put in.if the culvert is not long enough,and the road is narrow, you will have issues with trailers entering your driveway. Even a simple 8 ft long single axle trailer can be a issue when making that turn onto your driveway. Are you planning to build a house? who is delivering the materials on private road? will they use a flatbed/bunny truck or a tractor trailer? I cant count the number of times I heard or saw issues of trucks trying to deliver things and they cant make the turns or need to use creative driving into the driveways because of the length/curves.
RDrancher
Veteran Member
radioman - Thanks for the link. Good stuff! :thumbsup:
s219
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Here's how I did mine:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/235661-putting-entrance-culvert.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/235661-putting-entrance-culvert.html
OP
lawandorder39
New member
This is great help that you have provided to me. I now fill that I can do mine in the same way, just by your step by step instructions you have provided. Thank you a million times my friend.
Your pipe, is it double walled?
Your pipe, is it double walled?
s219
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Yes, I used an ADS N-12 dual-wall smooth-bore pipe, 15" ID and 18" OD. They come in 20' lengths for $150-160. They also make 12" and 8" ID pipes.
The preferred size depends on the watershed area that will potentially be feeding the pipe. 15" ID can handle up to about 8 acres of typical watershed into a roadside ditch for a "10-year" storm event. But also make sure you can get enough cover over the pipe -- at least 9" in this case, and 12" is better -- that will handle a cement truck.
The benefit of plastic is that it's easy for one man to handle, and it cuts easily with a sawz-all. I recently bought another length of the same pipe for a smaller culvert -- I cut it down to 11' long, and will save the two 4.5' bell/spigot ends to lengthen my previous culvert and make a larger entrance radius once we move to that property.
Be sure to get dual-wall smooth-bore -- it's preferred for strength and so that debris flows smoothly through the pipe.
Good luck!
The preferred size depends on the watershed area that will potentially be feeding the pipe. 15" ID can handle up to about 8 acres of typical watershed into a roadside ditch for a "10-year" storm event. But also make sure you can get enough cover over the pipe -- at least 9" in this case, and 12" is better -- that will handle a cement truck.
The benefit of plastic is that it's easy for one man to handle, and it cuts easily with a sawz-all. I recently bought another length of the same pipe for a smaller culvert -- I cut it down to 11' long, and will save the two 4.5' bell/spigot ends to lengthen my previous culvert and make a larger entrance radius once we move to that property.
Be sure to get dual-wall smooth-bore -- it's preferred for strength and so that debris flows smoothly through the pipe.
Good luck!
Soundguy
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a bit of advice.
is it truly a private road?
is it a prescriptive road?
does it have any deeded or recorded municipal ROW, causeway, or utility easements?
Is it in a water management district that manages water runnof and drainage in swales?
( yes.. they get to tell you how to handle runnoff and drainage on your own property!! )
In some areas, you can have a piece of land, and if you install a non permeable surface on it, you even have to be permitted for drainage reasons. ( concrete pad, roadway, driveway.. asphaltic concrete.. etc.. )
just sayin... check before buying and burying
hate to see you buy some culvert.. dig it.. set ip.. pour some mitered ends and splash pads with rip rap or energy disipators, and then have the county man drive buy and 1, fine you for building in a ROW, 2, cite you for doing work with out proper permits ( citation is usually 2x cost of permits! ), and 3, make you rip it out either because it was not inspected during work, or because it really just can't be there according to law. Could do ALL 3 to ya. so check twice.. cut once.
just some friendly advice...
soundguy
is it truly a private road?
is it a prescriptive road?
does it have any deeded or recorded municipal ROW, causeway, or utility easements?
Is it in a water management district that manages water runnof and drainage in swales?
( yes.. they get to tell you how to handle runnoff and drainage on your own property!! )
In some areas, you can have a piece of land, and if you install a non permeable surface on it, you even have to be permitted for drainage reasons. ( concrete pad, roadway, driveway.. asphaltic concrete.. etc.. )
just sayin... check before buying and burying
hate to see you buy some culvert.. dig it.. set ip.. pour some mitered ends and splash pads with rip rap or energy disipators, and then have the county man drive buy and 1, fine you for building in a ROW, 2, cite you for doing work with out proper permits ( citation is usually 2x cost of permits! ), and 3, make you rip it out either because it was not inspected during work, or because it really just can't be there according to law. Could do ALL 3 to ya. so check twice.. cut once. just some friendly advice...
soundguy
raptor749
Bronze Member
I agree with all about permits , and county rules/reg. If you think 20' is big enough go 40' , or 40' go 60' . State of NC put mine in free ( install ) that is , I had to buy pipes and mark where I wanted it. But that was 10 years ago. Also if its wooded or not consider a gate or cable if you want to keep others off if your not near it. Just my :2cents:
