How to protect tractor when brushogging

[csharpe5097]

I own a kubota L4240 and I have broke many hydro lines. Does anyone make side and rear brush guards to keep trees from catching on my tractor.

 

[leonz]

Short of using a lot of sheet metal to protect the steel lines and buying woven hose abrasion guards tubes which you cut to length theres not much else but the woven hose protectors are a real life saver for the rubber hoses.

You will need to buy the reusable black tie wraps from an electrical supply hose but they are worth it fir your use.

 

[RFB]

The plastic split loom typically used to protect wires seems to be an effective and economic solution for me.

It is relatively easy to install (you do not have to remove hose ends since it is split longitudinally) and the material has sufficient lubricity to slide over and around things instead of catching. (Any real loop will catch regardless of sheathing.) I normally fasten it at the ends and at intervals with wire ties.

 

[csharpe5097]

Both of my fender lights are broke, i bent the metal hyrdo hose on the bucket arm and bent my step. Is there anything made to protect the tractor more then the front brush guard.

It always happens when im brushogging the sides of my trails. The hanging branches kill me.

 

[foggy1111]

Deere makes a brush guard kit for the lights on the ROPS. I installed mine in a few minutes. I think the cost for a pair is about $35. Maybe Kubota has some to offer for you too?

I try to guard everything I can....brush is hard on stuff and can ruin your day.

One tip I learned on TBN (thanks Roy!) was to use my loader bucket as a brush guard. What I do is curl my bucket up a little so I don't too easily catch it on the ground....then lower it to a few inches off the ground (depending on brush type, etc). It will help me find logs and rocks and other hazards. AND....if the front end of the tractor starts to crawl up the brush.....then I know I am "in too deep" for my tractor brush-hog , and I back off. (at least that worked for my older 790 tractor)

Brush hogging new ground can be problems, you gotta go slow. I got hit in the face/eye with a stick one time and got one heck of a blackened eye outta the deal. Good thing I was wearing safety glasses.....or may have poked my eye out. BE CAREULL!

 

[RobertN]

From both your posts, I would say a chainsaw to clean up some of those branches...

Otherwise, the factory may have bruush gaurds for your lights. If not, a fab shop could make some simple ones.

For your hoses, would it be possible to add additional clamps to hold them tight on the tractor, and prevent brush from grabbing them? Maybe double up on the clamps? Or, have a fab shop make some garuds for them.

 

[TripleR]

Deere makes a brush guard kit for the lights on the ROPS. I installed mine in a few minutes. I think the cost for a pair is about $35. Maybe Kubota has some to offer for you too?

I try to guard everything I can....brush is hard on stuff and can ruin your day.

One tip I learned on TBN (thanks Roy!) was to use my loader bucket as a brush guard. What I do is curl my bucket up a little so I don't too easily catch it on the ground....then lower it to a few inches off the ground (depending on brush type, etc). It will help me find logs and rocks and other hazards. AND....if the front end of the tractor starts to crawl up the brush.....then I know I am "in too deep" for my tractor brush-hog , and I back off. (at least that worked for my older 790 tractor)

Brush hogging new ground can be problems, you gotta go slow. I got hit in the face/eye with a stick one time and got one heck of a blackened eye outta the deal. Good thing I was wearing safety glasses.....or may have poked my eye out. BE CAREULL!

That is what I do and it saved my L5030 and M8540 from damage this summer when bush hogging 10'+ trees and brush. I still managed to tear my tie rod boots up on the L5030 somehow though.

 

[N80]

I guess I've been lucky... well, sort of. I have used my L4400 for a lot of mowing, land clearing and clean up after logging. I've only had two 'incidents' and both were very strange. The first was a snakey little cedar running up underneath the hood and poking a hole in my radiator while backing up. Cost $80 to plug radiator. The next was similar and a sapling ran up in there and knocked the drive belt off. That was a 2 minute repair. I haven't lost any hoses, lights or dust boots.

As someone mentioned, messing with brush, pine tops, small trees, etc is dangerous. I've learned to slow things down. I was pushing a downed pine tree trunk with the FEL and the trunk was being against another tree when it slipped up over the bucket and 'whooshed' past my head. I've been very careful since then.

Anyway, check out the tractors they use to mow right of ways. Full cage around cab, heavy front brush guards, plates welded underneath.

 

[9973720wb19]

when bush hogging new areas, I always like to back the deck in and watch the deck's wheel to stay out of diches and mud, etc. I like the idea of using the bucket when mowing fwd.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Both of my fender lights are broke, i bent the metal hyrdo hose on the bucket arm and bent my step. Is there anything made to protect the tractor more then the front brush guard.

It always happens when im brushogging the sides of my trails. The hanging branches kill me.

I maintain lots of trails (miles) that I bushhog. I use them as skid trails and back country ski trails. One of my biggest jobs is keeping the over hanging branches and small trees cut back with my chainsaw and polesaw. Its a lot of work but the trails are nicer (and safer when skidding logs) and I have never ruined a hose.

 

[Ken45101]

I maintain lots of trails (miles) that I bushhog. I use them as skid trails and back country ski trails. One of my biggest jobs is keeping the over hanging branches and small trees cut back with my chainsaw and polesaw. Its a lot of work but the trails are nicer (and safer when skidding logs) and I have never ruined a hose.

I keep waiting to find a chainsaw that will mount on the loader bucket. I have miles of trails here, plus do bridal trail maintenance at state parks. A pole saw works well but is tiring after a few miles.

Ken

 

[csharpe5097]

I keep waiting to find a chainsaw that will mount on the loader bucket. I have miles of trails here, plus do bridal trail maintenance at state parks. A pole saw works well but is tiring after a few miles.

Ken

Does anyone know if kubota makes guards for the sides and lights. Thanks for all your help. I will continue to come her for advice if you all dont mind. Again. Thank you

 

[Gordon Gould]

I keep waiting to find a chainsaw that will mount on the loader bucket. I have miles of trails here, plus do bridal trail maintenance at state parks. A pole saw works well but is tiring after a few miles.

Ken

Here you go :confused2:

(The attached .doc file is a picture - I didnt know how to convert it )

 

[jinman]

I carry a Fiskars Bypass Lopper with me on my tractor. When I get into limbs up to 1-1/2" diameter that swat things on the tractor, I cut them with my loppers and pitch them on the ground to chop them up with the cutter. For lower branches, I have to get off the tractor, but most high branches that would hit the ROPS are easily trimmed from the tractor seat. The Fiskars trimmers of all shapes and styles are my favorites.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I keep waiting to find a chainsaw that will mount on the loader bucket. I have miles of trails here, plus do bridal trail maintenance at state parks. A pole saw works well but is tiring after a few miles.

Ken

Check this one:
Limbinator Saws by Priefert

 

[Johnbro]

I always bushhog backwards into thick stuff, but for low hanging branches I haven't found a substitute for going in first with a small chainsaw or polesaw and lopping everything off. I've also used the loader to break stuff off in front of me so it wouldn't swat me in the face.

If you broke your step you must be hitting some stout stuff pretty hard. You could weld guards around various things but short of that I think you'll have to eliminate the hazards or switch to an M1 Tank.

 

[jinman]

Since money is not an obstacle to any of us TBNers, why not just get a Loftness Kwik-Trim?:licking:

 

[Gordon Gould]

I always bushhog backwards into thick stuff, but for low hanging branches I haven't found a substitute for going in first with a small chainsaw or polesaw and lopping everything off. I've also used the loader to break stuff off in front of me so it wouldn't swat me in the face.

If you broke your step you must be hitting some stout stuff pretty hard. You could weld guards around various things but short of that I think you'll have to eliminate the hazards or switch to an M1 Tank.

:laughing:

 

[flusher]

I own a kubota L4240 and I have broke many hydro lines. Does anyone make side and rear brush guards to keep trees from catching on my tractor.

Protect yourself first.
When I bought my new Mahindra 5525 two years ago, the first thing I added was an expanded metal safety screen attached to the ROPS to protect my backside when running the brush hog.

 

[Ken45101]

Check this one:
Limbinator Saws by Priefert

I have seen that before. Kind of unwieldy and expensive for trimming things under 8-10'. The bucket can reach that high by itself. IIRC, the Limbinator goes for around $2000.

What I'd really like is something with a 3-4' bar. Not to cut anything that big, but to go trough brush and briars.

Here you go :confused2:

(The attached .doc file is a picture - I didnt know how to convert it )

I suspect Rube Goldberg was around when that was invented, LOL. I didn't seen how it was controlled (or maybe it isn't :confused2.

It did give me an idea though, I have an old electric chain saw. Maybe I could bolt it on to the bucket and control it with a switch. Maybe I can power it with an inverter or bring along the Honda generator!

Of course the best way for clearing the sides of a trail would be a helicopter. Last year I saw them clearing limbs on a power line right of way. They had a 40' pole hanging down with a dozen 2' circular saw blades spinning on it. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes. There are videos on youtube.

What does work well for lower stuff is a batwing mower with the sides up at an angle. That clears the lower 4-5 feet pretty well. You just need a trail big enough for the rig....and of course the batwing and a tractor big enough to operate it (80 HP or more). It does a really nice job with the wings at 45 degrees.

Ken