How to pull bearing from Flail Mower shaft?

[CJTOM]

Hello All-

I am looking for some advice. I am working on an 3pt 8' flail mower. The main shaft bearing on the end opposite the drive chain is totally gone. The mower has been run without the balls for several years. This is the way I got it. I have been able to remove all of the damaged parts except for the inner race that is mated directly to the flail shaft. This part is much wider than what I would consider typical. It is probably 2" long, and the rolling surface for the balls is within 3/4" of the outer edge. There are a couple of threaded holes that look like they would be used for set screws on the inner edge away from the balls. There isn't any "edge" to put a puller on. How can I remove this part? I may need to use part of it for a spacer if my new bearing can match the extreme width of the original.

Thanks,

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin CJTOM,
Since the bearing is totally shot I would just cut the inner race off with a angle grinder and abrasive wheel. You need to excersize care not to damage the shaft OD !

 

[CJTOM]

Scott-

That is what I was thinking, but I don't know if I may need that piece or not. It is really odd to have an inner bearing ring that is 2" wide. The outer ring is more like 1/2-3/4". I can weld a bar to it, and use that to pull it off, but then it is toast. Maybe someone with Flail experience know the part I am describing.

Thanks,

 

[tlbuser]

Well, yeah, that works too. From the way he described it, couldn't he also use a puller from the screw holes like this one MSC Item Detail

Or, use a bearing puller/separator behind the existing race, along with a 3 jaw puller ? MSC Item Detail

All of which he should be able to "borrow/rent" from an automotive place.

 

[CJTOM]

TLB-

Those are good suggestions, but the shaft assembly is still in the mower deck. I can't really fit anything large on the inner race. I am working through a 5" round hole to do everything. The threaded holes in the race are perpendicular to the shaft so that steering wheel type puller won't work. There isn't any space between the base of the inner race and the shaft. I tried using a cold chisel to get things moving and I can even slip a blade of grass in there.....

Tom

 

[tlbuser]

Dumb question, did you put a probe in the screw holes to see if there are any setscrews or pins ? Lots of breakfree, crc 56, kroil, etc......wanna borrow a cutting torch

 

[tillerkiller]

There are actually two parts on that shaft. One is the actual inner race, and the other (with the set screw holes) is the locking ring. You need to see if there are any set screws in the holes and remove them if there are. You may need to drill them out. Spray penetrating oil all over, through, and into everything. Then take a punch and turn the locking ring in the opposite direction that the shaft would normally turn. It is on an eccentric and will let go of the bearing. If it won't let go then try the other way. Be advised that penetrating oil will fly in every direction every time that you hit this thing now. When you put on the new bearing then verify with your bearing supplier what direction and how much to turn the new locking ring.

As usual, wear eye protection and be careful while whacking punches with a hammer while using them in a way that they are not really designed for, because if you break one then you can get hurt pretty bad, not to mention flying debris. Did I mention to wear eye protection?

 

[CJTOM]

TillerK-

So you are saying that the inner race and the locking ring are two separate pieces. I do not see the seam, but I will double check. There do not appear to be any screws in the holes, but I will double check that also. Everything has a serious coating of PB Blaster soaking in as we speak.

So loosen/remove the set screws, and then rotate the ring with the set screw holes in the opposite direction of rotation.

How does this affect the bearing race? Will it just slide off, or at least give me some room to work?

Thanks,

 

[CJTOM]

Okay- I get it. There are tabs or something on the shaft that the locking ring engages. Once the locking ring is rotated loose, then the bearing will pull off the shaft. That makes sense. It also explains the larger width of the inner race. It is the locking ring plus the race. I will post my result this evening.

Thanks,

 

[scott_vt]

There are actually two parts on that shaft. One is the actual inner race, and the other (with the set screw holes) is the locking ring. You need to see if there are any set screws in the holes and remove them if there are. You may need to drill them out. Spray penetrating oil all over, through, and into everything. Then take a punch and turn the locking ring in the opposite direction that the shaft would normally turn. quote]

Mornin Tillerkiller,
Sounds like youve got it right, Ive never heard of a bearing that had that large of an inner race while the outer race was only 3/4". It may be a fore gone conclusion that both of those parts may get be damaged in removal.

BTW Tom,
If the balls and bearing have come apart the inner race is shot along with everything else ! The only thing you may be able to salvage is the locking ring !