How to read a Span Table???

   / How to read a Span Table??? #1  

MossflowerWoods

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Ok, I'm trying to build a shed to hold my 4 Harley's and the gear (helmets etc.)

I'm estimating a 12' x 20' shed.

More info here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/219690-screws-vs-nails-prepping-build.html

I'm going to build the base with PT lumber. I wanted to mount he base frame & joists on PT 4x4 in concrete but I have not found the correct Strong-Tie type mounting hardare to attach the frame to the 4x4's. My belief is this form of foundation is easy to level, I cam keep the structrue close to the ground, and i can support the joists directly by a row of posts through the center.

My napkin math says estimate ~3500 lbs for bikes 500 lbs for junk, and 210 lbs for me STILL gives me under 20 LBS per square foot.

A builder friend keeps upping the size and center of what I need for joists. And I'm no dummy, but I cannot figure out how to read the span tables I've found.

I need to start on by next friday and I'm not even done designing it.

HELP! Can I do this? Can I use PT 2x6 12" center or do I need 2x10, 2x8? Is there a strong-tie style I can use to mount the base to the 4x4 posts or MUST I pour concrete footers and run beams? The "ramp" into the door will be very short, I need to keep this close to the ground.

And I've not even begun the figure out the rafters...

I fear I am hosed and the Harley's will be in the carport all winter...

Thanks in advance,
David
 

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   / How to read a Span Table??? #2  
You can use the 2x6's if you like but I would recommend you use 3/4" tongue and groove plywood for the flooring if you do. Also, to mount the shed floor frame to the 4x4's in concrete, you could use simple column caps and double-up the 2x6's where-ever they land on the post.
images
 
   / How to read a Span Table???
  • Thread Starter
#4  
ustmd,

12 x 20 rectangle. 8' walls. I plan to build an off center roof with small loft space. the souther slope will be longer so I can mount 12v solar panels to run a trickle charge for the batteries and a couple 12v lights.

Dmace,

For flooring, I was planning PT plywood on the bottom as a moisture barrier, and maybe 1x6 or similat wood planking at a 45 degree angle. Partially for durability, partially for load bearing.

How do I level the dang thing if I have to cut off every post flush?

I apologize in advance for stoopid questions, I'm a computer geek...

David
 
   / How to read a Span Table??? #5  
2x6 on 12" centers will do ya, double up the outer edge and center. Set your 4x4 in concrete and let it set up, then get some bright colored concrete string to set your levels, cut the 4x4's to the desired level height and build from there...fast and easy, just make sure the string is tight and level.
Easiest way to string your grid is to go about 24' for a 20' level, pound stakes, tighten string, put level under it, pound the side that is too high, repeat for other direction and double check, remember to check level as you cut.
 
   / How to read a Span Table??? #6  
Here's some info on the 10x12 ft saltbox shed I built a few years ago. It's just a storage shed for garden tools and miscellaneous stuff--not a lot of heavy stuff. Used 2x10s on 12" centers to span 10 ft. Concrete perimeter footing 12" wide x 18" deep with about 6" exposure above ground. 2x6 PT sill plate held to the footing with embedded 1/2" dia anchor bolts. 3/4" plywood flooring. For heavy loads like you have, I'd add another footing at the middle of the joists for support.

DSCF0035 (Small).JPGDSCF0037 (Small).JPGDSCF0044 (Small).JPGDSCF0053 (Small).JPG

Here's the finished product.

DSCF0070 (Small).JPGDSCF0076 (Small).JPGDSCF0018-small.jpgDSCF0020-small.jpg

Hope this helps.
Good luck.
 
   / How to read a Span Table???
  • Thread Starter
#7  
2x6 on 12" centers will do ya, double up the outer edge and center. Set your 4x4 in concrete and let it set up, then get some bright colored concrete string to set your levels, cut the 4x4's to the desired level height and build from there...fast and easy, just make sure the string is tight and level.
Easiest way to string your grid is to go about 24' for a 20' level, pound stakes, tighten string, put level under it, pound the side that is too high, repeat for other direction and double check, remember to check level as you cut.

Fixemall,

Thank you sir! :thumbsup:

I love you guys... Saving my bacon regularly!

David
 
   / How to read a Span Table???
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Here's the finished product.

Hope this helps.
Good luck.

That is cute! Full on concrete foundation, wow! :thumbsup:

David
 
   / How to read a Span Table??? #9  
Here's some info on the 10x12 ft saltbox shed I built a few years ago.

Place like that rents for $500 a month around here.
 
   / How to read a Span Table??? #10  
For a margin of saftey, figuring 50PSF (because your bikes arent going to disrtibute their weight evenly)

A 2x6 SYP joinst on 12" spacing will span just over 10' with those specs.

IF you are building 12x20 and were figuring on running the joists in the 12' direction, WITH a row of posts also down the middle, you will only be spanning 6'. If that is the way I understand you were planning it??? The 2x6's are going to be pleanty sufficent.

More important is going to be the post spacing (how many posts) and what you plan on doing for beams to support them joists. So a little more clarification and perhaps a sketch of exactally what you are planning would be beneficial:thumbsup:
 

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