How to seafoam ride on lawn tractor

[Tractorguy24]

Should you have stem deposits, an ounce slowly fed in is more than enough. Sticky valves don't usually present a big problem on riders. Tell us a bit more about the rider. What is the model of the engine? You could do as you think by stalling the engine, but it won't do a thing for you. You're not going to create a magically clean combustion chamber. They weren't meant to be clean anyways.

Its a craftsman 6500 which was sold by sears canada I think. intek 25 hp OHV 2 cylinder b&s engine. Has over 500 hours on it.

 

[greggn]

How would I add it to the venturi? Through the fuel?
Thanks for your help!!

It is also available as a spray. Sea Foam Sales Company - Small Engine – Sea Foam Spray http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/HOW2_Sea-Foam-Spray-Small-Engine-Carburetor.pdf

 

[Rosher18]

I would definitely not use the Seafoam to cause it to stall! That's possibly the best way to hydrolock it and blow head gaskets or break connecting rods.

I like to use the spray if I'm going to hot soak it, and here is my process :

1. Start mower, allow to run for a bit. Sometimes I'll get on and mow a bit to really get it seeing some engine load.

2. Remove covers and air cleaner, then advance RPM to between mid and full throttle

3. Spray or slowly dribble Seafoam into intake, being sure to get plenty into all intake paths (I have a B&S 22 horse V- twin, so there are two intake manifolds)

4. Observe motor, adding enough Seafoam to start seeing smoke come from exhaust (stop adding or slow down if the rpms drop quickly, add faster if they're not dropping. It should struggle a bit to stay running)

5. While it's still struggling and smoking, reach out and flip the key to "OFF".

6. Let it soak for about 5 minutes, then start (it will smoke like a high school after party)

7. Rev it up and go finish your mowing to blow the rest of the crap out!

Definitely best to do this outside and not in your shop.

 

[def38]

Seafoam is often useless as a combustion chamber cleaner (carbon removal). Check the MSDS. If you want to clean up the fuel system, valve stems, combustion chambers and related parts wetted by the fuel, use a product containing PEA. Techron is a good choice. Ad it to fresh fuel. Pouring it down the carb throat is all but useless unless you like to make smoke. I fuel my mower with Chevron fuel which contains adequate Techron to begin with.

I would not ad fuel system cleaners to the crankcase. They are combustible, dilute the oil and reduce the viscosity index of the engine oil and may damage seals causing oil leaks.

If you want to clean up the bottom end of an engine, follow the factory recommended oil grades and change intervals. If you have an engine with oil varnish deposits, I have had good success with Rislone oil additive. Be prepared to change the crankcase oil soon (5-10 hours) after using the Rislone. I have a B&S Intek V2 engine on my riding mower. I use 5w-30 Mobil1 in the crankcase. The engine uses no oil and the oil remains clean for two seasons of cutting 5 acres here in Dixieland. These air cooled mower engines like synthetic engine oils. To offset the added cost of synthetic engine oils, change intervals can be extended when using synthetics. As for spark plugs, my B&S Intek V2 has the OE plugs (10 years old) and show no need for change. You may improve starting by gapping the plugs to factory specs and setting the valve lash.

 

[DEWFPO]

I would definitely not use the Seafoam to cause it to stall! That's possibly the best way to hydrolock it and blow head gaskets or break connecting rods.

I like to use the spray if I'm going to hot soak it, and here is my process :

1. Start mower, allow to run for a bit. Sometimes I'll get on and mow a bit to really get it seeing some engine load.

2. Remove covers and air cleaner, then advance RPM to between mid and full throttle

3. Spray or slowly dribble Seafoam into intake, being sure to get plenty into all intake paths (I have a B&S 22 horse V- twin, so there are two intake manifolds)

4. Observe motor, adding enough Seafoam to start seeing smoke come from exhaust (stop adding or slow down if the rpms drop quickly, add faster if they're not dropping. It should struggle a bit to stay running)

5. While it's still struggling and smoking, reach out and flip the key to "OFF".

6. Let it soak for about 5 minutes, then start (it will smoke like a high school after party)

7. Rev it up and go finish your mowing to blow the rest of the crap out!

Definitely best to do this outside and not in your shop.

After doing this, I'd recommend changing the spark plug as well.

DEWFPO

 

[def38]

After doing this, I'd recommend changing the spark plug as well.

DEWFPO

Why??

 

[Rosher18]

Why??

The spark plugs can be fouled with the Seafoam fog and if a lot of garbage burns onto them you can wind up with rough running.

For what it's worth I have not replaced plugs after Seafoam, but they're cheap and it's worth doing.

 

[def38]

It is rare that plugs require replacement in most engines. With lead free gasolines, spark plugs do not foul as they did decades ago. Most of my vehicles never require replacement spark plugs before the vehicle is replace with new. For example, my BMW motorcycle engine came stock with twin electrode plugs which I promptly replaced with single electrode Autolytes. These plugs are now 15 years old in the engine and I have gapped them 2-3 times. The engine starts rapidly regardless of outside temperature and still delivers the same fuel mileage as when new.

My mower engine, a B&S Intek V2, 724 cc, 24 hp, air cooled, still has the OE plugs, air filters and belts, hoses and gaskets. Using good fuel (I use Chevron fuels with Techron routinely), keep the engine oil changed at factory intervals (I use Mobil1 5w-30 in my mower engine), use a quality oil filter (Purolator is my preference) and you will not need fuel additives or engine oil additives. Air cooled engines benefit from synthetic engine oil of the correct viscosity. Changing spark plugs is a waste of time and money. Gapping the plugs and setting engine valve lash is recommended each season.

Regarding Seafoam, the product is 25% isopropyl alcohol, 75% pale oil. Makes a lot of smoke when administered through the intake, does little to remove carbon or other deposits. I would never ad any fuel treatment to the engine crankcase.

PEA is a useful additive for removing carbon buildup in piston engines. PEA is contained in adequate amounts in Chevron gasoline motor fuels. It is available in concentrated form in Techron fuel system additives. Don't ad it to the engine oil.

 

[def38]

The spark plugs can be fouled with the Seafoam fog and if a lot of garbage burns onto them you can wind up with rough running.

For what it's worth I have not replaced plugs after Seafoam, but they're cheap and it's worth doing.

And here I thought that the whole idea of using the Seafoam was to remove deposits in the combustion chamber(s) where the spark plugs reside???!!

 

[DEWFPO]

The spark plug is an easy place for carbon and other deposits to accumulate after a sea foam treatment. It may not need to be replaced, but it would be smart to remove it, check the gap, re-gap if necessary and clean it off if it needs it, if not reinstall it.

I too just run some Techron in the fuel tank once a year and have never, ever had a problem with carbon build up in any engine I've owned.

DEWFPO