How to separate front tire knuckle to replace dust boot? L3800

[repete]

I usually just take the nut off, turn it upside down and thread it back on just to the point that the shaft is a little shorter than the nut and strike the nut with a hammer. I do not destroy the boot, or put pressure on the bottom of the joint like sticking a pickle fork in it. The pickle fork exerts pressure in the direction the joint is not designed to overcome. If you are replacing the joint use the pickle fork but if you are just replacing the boot, I would suggest not.

BTW, although my joints are sealed on my 2550 and there is no zerk fitting, I do apply grease occasionally via a needle through the boot. The tiny hole has never been a problem and I have over 5000 hours of hard work on my L2550DT.

The weakest point in my steering system is the universal joint prior to the gear box. It is well worn and I regularly just squirt some oil on it to lube it. Taking the components off to replace it is a job for a long "down time" which this little guy never seems to get, sadly.

 

[Rail Dawg]

A little heat will not weaken the parts. I've been working iron and steel for over 30 years and the guys at your shop are just wrong.

If your pickle fork fits right, you just need to hit it harder.

The guy was pretty young... I thought maybe he might be mistaken.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Rail Dawg]

I usually just take the nut off, turn it upside down and thread it back on just to the point that the shaft is a little shorter than the nut and strike the nut with a hammer. I do not destroy the boot, or put pressure on the bottom of the joint like sticking a pickle fork in it. The pickle fork exerts pressure in the direction the joint is not designed to overcome. If you are replacing the joint use the pickle fork but if you are just replacing the boot, I would suggest not.

BTW, although my joints are sealed on my 2550 and there is no zerk fitting, I do apply grease occasionally via a needle through the boot. The tiny hole has never been a problem and I have over 5000 hours of hard work on my L2550DT.

The weakest point in my steering system is the universal joint prior to the gear box. It is well worn and I regularly just squirt some oil on it to lube it. Taking the components off to replace it is a job for a long "down time" which this little guy never seems to get, sadly.

It finally popped off easily when I did just as you said. I'm not saying the other advice on this thread wasn't sound it's just that when I had just about given up I tapped on the nut and off she popped.

I do appreciate everyone's help. That was a learning experience.

Chuck

 

[repete]

It finally popped off easily when I did just as you said. I'm not saying the other advice on this thread wasn't sound it's just that when I had just about given up I tapped on the nut and off she popped.

I do appreciate everyone's help. That was a learning experience.

Chuck

Excellent! This is a great forum to pose questions on just as you did. I have learned much here over the years. I have no idea where I learned that trick but someone showed it to me at one time.

 

[Rail Dawg]

What is the best way to get that metal retaining ring back onto the boot?

Anyone here use a nylon tie-wrap or is it best to go with the ring?

Thanks.

 

[Baby Grand]

What is the best way to get that metal retaining ring back onto the boot?

Anyone here use a nylon tie-wrap or is it best to go with the ring?

Thanks.

The tie-wrap is a clever idea.
I stuck with the OEM ring.
It's like wrestling a greased pig.
Be patient.

 

[SUPERNUG]

I had the same issue while tryi9ng to remove the tie-rod. Reversed the nut and struck with the hammer and I was in business. Thanks for the tips folks.