How to tell which model hydrant?

[4570Man]

With the top of the hydrant being that crusty I’m sure the bottom side is worse. I’d throw it out and replace it.

 

[Xfaxman]

This style is the best frost proof hydrant that I have ever had: Baker Water Systems - Monitor® Magnum Yard Hydrant

The water valve works just like a hydraulic spool valve. And after the hydrant is installed the handle can be rotated to any position desired then held there with the set screw.

 

[CobyRupert]

I’ve worked on my Campbell hydrant way too much and have replaced just about every part on it.
First thing I’d try is to adjust the handle position on the rod that goes into the standpipe to push rod farther down when handle closes.
This probably won’t work if the plunger at the bottom of the standpipe needs replacement.
So.. 2nd thing is to disconnect the push rod from the handle and unscrew the hydrant head from the standpipe. This might be difficult for you because the wood post is the way. Then pull up the pushrod that’s internal to the standpipe and replace the plunger attached to the bottom of it.

If the plunger doesn’t shut the water off completely, as is happening now, you can still be leaking water and never know if the water drains out the port at the bottom underground instead of making its way up and out the standpipe/hydrant.

The only way I can tell mine is leaking is I installed a pressure gauge in the house downstream of the valve in the house that supplies the hydrant. Only by turning off the supply valve and watching the trapped water in the line to the hydrant lose pressure do I know the hydrant is leaking.

 

[MDawson]

I'm having a very hard time identifying my hydrant to repair it. I'm pretty sure it's the plunger at the bottom of the shaft and want to get the correct one without having to replace the whole hydrant. Cannot really get to the backside of handle and spigot but was able to get a pic of the only identifying mark on the handle. No marks what so ever on right side of spigot.

 

[CADplans]

I'm having a very hard time identifying my hydrant to repair it. I'm pretty sure it's the plunger at the bottom of the shaft and want to get the correct one without having to replace the whole hydrant. Cannot really get to the backside of handle and spigot but was able to get a pic of the only identifying mark on the handle. No marks what so ever on right side of spigot.

Why not simply order a complete new one,, ??
If you rebuild the old one, assuming you can find the parts, you might save $6,,

AND, if you rebuild, you are risking that something else might be wrong with your old hydrant.
TOSS it, and get a completely new unit.

 

[LouNY]

It's a royal pain to replace mine, something about that 5 foot bury depth.

 

[MDawson]

If $ wasn't so tight no problem replacing whole pipe, but also don't know depth. New ones are $130+, where as rebuild kits are $25+.

 

[CobyRupert]

I'm having a very hard time identifying my hydrant to repair it. I'm pretty sure it's the plunger at the bottom of the shaft and want to get the correct one without having to replace the whole hydrant. Cannot really get to the backside of handle and spigot but was able to get a pic of the only identifying mark on the handle. No marks what so ever on right side of spigot.

It looks like there’s hardly room to raise the handle. Is there room for it to unscrew from the pipe? If it’s the plunger on the bottom, you might get lucky and be able to replace it with a “generic” plunger, or one from another model.

 

[LD1]

Never taken a hydrant apart. Always just replace the whole thing. Cause usually by the time they start leaking, the bottom of the pipe is so corroded anyway they aint long for this world.

But can the plunger actually be pulled up the pipe and replaced without digging it up? Or is the packing/nut the only thing serviceable?

 

[CobyRupert]

……can the plunger actually be pulled up the pipe and replaced without digging it up? Or is the packing/nut the only thing serviceable?

Yes, typically.
Lift the handle up so that plunger isn’t seated and will pull out more easily.
Disconnect the handle mechanism from the rod that extend down hydrant’s stand pipe to plunger. (Note: You don’t the rod in the standpipe to be turning as you turn the handle as it may be unscrewing it’s connection at the bottom.)
Remove handle.
Pull the rod out of the stand pipe.
Unscrew plunger at bottom of the rod and replace.

For me the hard part is adjusting the handle after reassembly so that it opens the plunger enough for good flow, yet closes tight enough for no leaks…or imagined leaks as you can’t really tell because it would just leak out the weep/drain hole at the bottom of the hydrant. It’s a Goldilocks feel.