How to use a box blade?

[Degolyerent]

The first thing to do if you are happy with the amount of roots you have removed is to either turn the teeth over or take them out completely, then adjust the top link until the box is 'flat' that way you can work forward or backward without digging up the whole world, then working forward across the cleared area starting on one side of clearing work the high spots into the low areas until you get it roughed in, then working from one side to the other in a grid fashion keep working it finer and finer, all one way one time and then turn 90 degrees and work across the grid working it finer and finer as you go the other way. Working a 'grid' gets everything on a even plane, of course driveways you can't work a grid system but practice makes perfect I have been grading for a living for 30 plus years, it does take time and practice
You have to adjust the box when you feel the front of the tractor move up or down, go slow and speed will come with time
I put in a few pics of some jobs
I call my system of grading using a grid or cross- hatching I used this system grading large areas for concrete for many years, it was necessary to get areas completely level to cut down on hand grading labor

 

[jenkinsph]

Some good pointers so far, most important imo, "go slow or stop if need be. You should move only as fast as you can adjust the boxblade's height in real time.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

It helps to have position control.

Can you explain how to use the position control.??

I sometimes struggle with my rear blade while working my gravel driveway.

Sometimes, patience is a good thang.

 

[stub]

I've had the same problems as you trying to smooth a driveway with a box blade, until I got the proper tool. Lay it down flat and pull it.

Land Pride Grading Scrapers

 

[ustmd]

In addition to the good advice here (especially going slow), something that I found helps with bumpy ground or with a lot of mounds is to work the BB in reverse-i.e. drive the tractor in reverse and use the BB to push the mounds. If you can start in a flat space and are driving in reverse, BB is encountering any ruts or mounds before the tractor, so the bounce is minimized.

Now my standard disclaimer--I am not an expert or a gifted amateur...just a Ph.D. trying to make his way in the sub-rural world :laughing:.

 

[teg]

Understand that pushing backwards can bend the 3ph, they are designed for pulling.

What I try and do first is loosen all the material of the top layer (peaks and valleys). Shorten the top link and drag the shanks back and forth for awhile. If they are not digging in, add weight!!! Do you have a front end loader? (profile is not filled in ) For the real bad peaks, I'll take some bites out of it and put the soil in low spots, valleys.

Back dragging with the heal of your bucket helps too... and the bucket in float mode. Once everything is loose, make the top link long so that you are riding on the back blade of the BB. It should start to level things out.

I very rarely have the box blade "level"... most of the time the top link is either all the way out or all the way in. That is where the Hydraulic top link is a "must have". I just leveled a hillside... although it doesn't go into details, link below:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/214670-created-flat-spot.html

 

[k0ua]

Well I see that Teg has mentioned what I was going to post already. And that was Backdragging with the heel of the bucket, I dont own a box blade, but If I were you I would try plowing up the ground with the rippers down, and get rid of any large rocks or roots by hand if need be. Then backdrag with you bucket. You need to be going pretty fast for best results, in reverse, I use either full pedal in low range or less hst pedal in Medium range in reverse,When I had a geared tractor I used Hi reverse gear. It only had 2 Reverse speeds, and the low one was too slow. Then change directions about every 10 passes so you do not get too much dirt piled up in one direction. Be sure you loader control is in the "float" position, you can use the cutting edge also instead of the heel of the bucket, but dont have it at too steep of an angle, it will tend to cut in too deep, and will give more shock to your hydraulic cylinders. Now it is not going to smooth out hard packed dirt very fast but if your soil is plowed up it will smooth it out pretty well. The soil has to be "about right" as too wet, will just make slicked down mud, and too dusty will make for a lung full of dirt! I have used this method on dirt and gravel for about 19 years and it has worked for me. give it a try, it doesn't cost anything!

Here is a video of backdragging gravel. Gravel is of course easier.

Kubota L3400HST back dragging - Tractor Videos - Kubota, John Deere, New Holland and More

James K0UA

 

[NSBound]

Here's a link to an earlier primer on how to use a box blade.

 

[Zxyrthe]

I've had good luck with a homemade drag harrow made from chain link fence. It's about six feet of fence that I drag behind my box blade. It acts like a rasp, breaking down and smoothing out any debris, gravel, etc. that comes out of the box blade.

I'll second the floating FEL back drag maneuver. It takes practice but works really well for spreading gravel like icing on a cake.

The tractor is more hammer than scalpel so the more purpose-specific the attachment, the better. I still do the detail work by hand with a rake.

Good luck.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I don't have a box blade but, I would like to try one on my gravel driveway.

I do back drag some. It is a great way to smooth out gravel. I have a lot more control back dragging than using my rear blade. I can get good down pressure while back dragging and I am getting to the point where I can feather the bucket to get a good finished grade.

I find over short passes back dragging is great but, over the longer passes I prefer either the rake or the rear blade.

I always finish up by hand rakeing. I actually enjoy that.