How wide of a disc can I pull?

Farmwithjunk · Jun 3, 2007

RollingsFarms said:
i'm happy to know im not the only one whos a fan of older disks. they just dont build them the same today as they did 20-30 years ago.

The #25 Massey disc is one of those creations that just plain ol' "worked like it was supposed to". It's not excessively heavy, but digs like a much heavier disc. They level better than most disc's, and leave you with a nice flat seedbed. There's one bolt per gang that can be removed that'll allow the gang to "float" independently of the frame, giving several inches of movement up and down. The levers allow you to adjust gang angle "on-the-go". It's short coupled front to rear, meaning it's not hard for a smaller, lighter tractor to handle when raised. And best of all, for a disc with the "value" of the #25, they're relatively cheap when you stack it against a new one. I paid $425 for this one, and it was expensive compared to a lot of them I see at auctions. It was close to home, so I figured what I paid over the cost of some, I'd recoup in fuel savings hauling it to my place. (Close enough I drove the tractor to pick it up!)

These things were around when it was still just FERGUSON. There were 2 upgrades over the years. Around 1959 was the final upgrade. They stayed in production until the mid 1980's. The later models were just a tick better, more rugged frames. The way to distinguish the later models is the scraper assembly. The first 2 versions had a round "pipe" holding the scrapers, where the last version has an angle iron scraper bar.

Massey still has parts. Disc blades, spools, and boxings (bearings) are available as generics through just about any decent farm supply store (inc. TSC)

Painting mine is WINTER 2007/2008 PROJECT #1. I'll completely dis-assemble, sandblast, prime, paint, and decal. Should be good for another 40 or 50 years! (If only I was......)

andrewj · Jun 3, 2007

MtnViewRanch said:
I think that it is better to not use absolutes here at TBN, there are exceptions to most everything.

you misread my intent. should have said, "no. (answering the original question.) followed by the statement that a 9 foot will make him spin his wheels. sorry for my lack of ability to type!

Glowplug · Jun 3, 2007

Hey Farmwithjunk, don't forget I'm still looking for a 7 1/2' MF#25. If after you get it fully restored you want to get rid of it so that you can find another one to restore I'll be glad to take it off your hands.

See ya!

Farmwithjunk · Jun 3, 2007

Glowplug said:
Hey Farmwithjunk, don't forget I'm still looking for a 7 1/2' MF#25. If after you get it fully restored you want to get rid of it so that you can find another one to restore I'll be glad to take it off your hands. See ya!

Gotcha on my short list for the disc. I bought a hammered old Massey Ferguson 35 last week as a "fix and re-sell" project. [Needs clutch and tires among other things] The seller has a plow, disc, sickle bar, and grader blade that he's wanting to sell. He said they're all Massey items. I'm going to try and get by to see them this week. Maybe......

(If they're as rough as the tractor, I'm leaving them in the weeds though. Tractor was too cheap to pass by. [$875] Price mentioned for implements would be high for good condition)

dweitzel · Jun 3, 2007

I sure say you are all giving me LOTS of ideas. I'm still shopping. The 9' got by me and was sold before I get to look at it. Must have been in pretty good shape to go that quick.

I'm in SE Indiana. The ground is hard as a rock right now. Less than an inch of rain in the entire month of May. I will not be plowing the ground so a little larger disc probably will be ok. I guess I can always sharpen up the welding/cutting skills an see what I can do. Anyway, as suggested here, I'll need to wait for a little rain to soften the soil before disc'ing so I have a little time to keep looking.

Farmwithjunk, real nice set up. Hopefully I can come up with something and modify it so it's just right also.

On a side note, pulled a hay rake and hay wagon with the cub today for about 7 hours. Pretty neat to see the little cub out in the field working with the bigger tractors. Sure came in handy today!

If anyone has any pictures of a modification to remove the hydraulic cylinder and replace it with a chain binder, or hand crank, that woudl sure help me out as I have no rear remotes on the cub. I'm thinking of a chain binder or a come along to raise and lower the wheels for transport.

Dave

troweller · Jun 3, 2007

to deal with transport disc without hydraulics on tractor, take the cylinder off and bolt some chain through the hole. the next part is tricky and might not work if disc is super heavy, but try to lift one end of the disc off the ground until the wheels have dropped, then tighten the chain with a binder. my picture has aboutt 18 feet too much chain. i have used come along, but it was difficult to disengage.

Soundguy · Jun 3, 2007

Depending ont he setup.. you could use a turn buckle.. and on some old implements where they needed an extend-to lower.. I've seen bottle jacks used then there was a flip down piece of metal that pinned in place to hold it so the jack didn't carry the load while on the road. Heck.. you might be able to use a couple cheap jacks to lif the frame in order to drop the wheels and do it that way too.. there's always more than one way to skin a cat.

Lastly.. this is an old trick I've seen alot of ford guys do.. as the old 9n/2n/8n were not super easy or convienient to tap hyds off of ( yes you could.. but ya lost the 3pt inthe process .. etc.. )

In any case.. a large diameter SA hyd cyl is mounted between the toplink and the 3pt drawbar. Your implement can be towed on the swinging drawbar.. have the cyl fille dwith oil when extended... run a hosse from the cyl to the cyl on the lift implement.. if it is SA.. great.. if it is DA.. run it to the side that will allow youto get the wheels down, and put a breather on the other side. Now.. bleed the system out real good and get oil in the hoses and acyls.. When you raise your 3pt, the cyl in the rear is compressed.. thus forcing oil down the line to the cyl on the implement.

I've seen at least a couple 8n guys doing this to run a dozer blad or snowplaow blade ont he front of their N by using a cyl mounted this way, 2 cyls can be used if you have 2 cyls that are on the lift implement..

This was way easier than chaingin the lift arms down and tapping the pressure point on the pump base cover to get hyd pressure out of the old N..

Soundguy

Robert_in_NY · Jun 3, 2007

troweller said:
to deal with transport disc without hydraulics on tractor, take the cylinder off and bolt some chain through the hole. the next part is tricky and might not work if disc is super heavy, but try to lift one end of the disc off the ground until the wheels have dropped, then tighten the chain with a binder. my picture has aboutt 18 feet too much chain. i have used come along, but it was difficult to disengage.

There is a racheting "cylinder" (I don't know the actual name for it). It is similar to the racheting chain binders but it is designed for use on equipment that doesn't have hydraulics. My Massey Harris 5' vineyard disc has one on it.

Glowplug · Jun 3, 2007

Robert_in_NY said:
There is a racheting "cylinder" (I don't know the actual name for it). It is similar to the racheting chain binders but it is designed for use on equipment that doesn't have hydraulics. My Massey Harris 5' vineyard disc has one on it.

I think it's called a "Ratchet Lift Screw". It is an option on my pull-type mower. To raise the mower I have a cylinder that raises the wheels. The manual shows the "manual lift" option with what is called a "Ratchet Lift Screw" bolted in just like a hydraulic cylinder would be.