HP required for Brush Hog ?

[CJBOTA]

I need to get a brush hog for my B2920. I will be mowing a 20 acre orchard. It seems that most chose a 5' brush hog. My question is will a 6' brush hog work? I don't plan on letting the weeds get to high. If necessary I can just slow down a little in the heavy stuff. I realize I will be pushing the tractor a little. I am curious is anyone else running a 6' brush hog and how big of a tractor does it take? I won't be trying to cut any small trees just weeds. I plan on looking at what Woods has to offer but I am leaning towards a heavy duty King Cutter. What are your recommendations? Thanks!
CJ from Ohio

 

[john_bud]

The weight of the 6' cutter may be too much for the B. Most hd cutters are 1000# w/o chains. Don't know about the KK, but I think they call it a HD, but it is really a medium at around 750-800# (not sure). Also, general rule of thumb is 5hp per foot of cut width. You can make it work, but you will need a big front weight or FEL (maybe something in the bucket?) and will have to slow down. Thick grass and weeds can be harder than heck to power thru. Keep the blades sharp.

jb

 

[CJBOTA]

Actually KK makes a pull type which does not require lifting with the 3PH. I do have a FEL if needed for ballast but I don't think that would be needed with a pull type cutter. As far as blades go I am not sure that you sharpen brush hog blades. However, I think it is a great idea for cutting grass and weeds. I really want to give the 6 footer a try unless someone says it's a bad idea.

 

[MikeInEburg]

The pull type will work like a champ - so long as you go slllooowwww thru the rough spots. Just remember that pull type is not as easy to get into corners and tight spots as 3-point type... This is a BIG trade-off.
Mike

 

[traderrik]

I found that most cutter manufacturers have a suggested (required?) minimum PTO horsepower. I had to step-up a tractor size to be able to handle the #286 6' Bush Hog that I wanted, which wants 40 PTO hp.

Just f.y.i. here's a link to some Bush Hog models & specs (see the right side of the page as well)

Bush Hog&reg - Performance You Can Count On

As noted in a post under a similar topic, I have to maintain a pretty high engine speed (2640 RPM) on my L4740 to get the shredder's suggested 540 RPM at the PTO. Just something to keep in mind.

Happy shredding!

 

[ericher69]

John Bud: "Also, general rule of thumb is 5hp per foot of cut width. You can make it work, but you will need a big front weight or FEL (maybe something in the bucket?) and will have to slow down."

Just some clarification...is that 5 pto HP or Tractor HP?

Thanks

ericher69

 

[RobJ]

I think it's a bad idea.

5' should be plenty might even be a bit big depending on the weight. Just because you can counter balance the weight with the FEL or a bucket load of sand, you are still lifting and getting the bounce weight effect on the rear of the tractor. We have all seen the pics of the top link pulled off. But on the other hand you can run without a top link, which is what I do all the time now.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

I'm not a Kabota guy so can't comment on things directly related to the tractor. Here is what I can tell you from my experience. (the following has been stated by me on more than one occasion and I could be sounding like a broken record). I'm running a 5' model on a 24pto tractor. On my pasture I hardly know it's back there powerwise. I don't have any shrubs, saplings or berry brambles to contend with.

Before getting my tractor I used my BIL's Kabota/JD setup. While the tractor is bigger than mine, his setup has a real hard time on my pasture. Think the biggest issue is his JD mower (older model, 6' I think) doesn't do a very good job of clearing the cut grass from under the mower deck. Not clearing the cut grass from under the deck eats up a LOT of power.

 

[SuperDave]

I think it's a bad idea.

5' should be plenty might even be a bit big depending on the weight. Just because you can counter balance the weight with the FEL or a bucket load of sand, you are still lifting and getting the bounce weight effect on the rear of the tractor. We have all seen the pics of the top link pulled off. But on the other hand you can run without a top link, which is what I do all the time now.

I never thought of running without the top link. I run a 5' king kutter behind my b7800 (22pto hp) and that can bog down the engine when the weeds get thick. Do you have any stability issues without the top link? I will have to give it a try because in rough terrain, the mower is constantly coming off the ground, which makes for a rough ride and even rougher cut.

 

[RobJ]

I the mower is constantly coming off the ground, which makes for a rough ride and even rougher cut.

I think a few guys do it here, this technique has been around for a while. But this is exactly why I went to it on mine. I even have the flex link on my RC which helps some. But it's a lot smoother without it. It will scalp over certain bumps, but the trade off is worth it IMO.

Rob

 

[john_bud]

John Bud: "Also, general rule of thumb is 5hp per foot of cut width. You can make it work, but you will need a big front weight or FEL (maybe something in the bucket?) and will have to slow down."

Just some clarification...is that 5 pto HP or Tractor HP?

Thanks

ericher69

Normally it's a PTO hp thing. But some small tractors have higher hp by going to 3000 or 3600 rpm. That changes the rule to a different thumb!

jb

 

[CJBOTA]

I agree with mikeineburg. Weight should not be a problem with the pull type. Also I agree it will be more difficult to maneuver but my orchard is pretty much open space. I will not be using this in a woods. Also, by mowing a little more frequently my grass and weeds will never be over 6" high. Plus I can adjust the height up a little. I stll may go with the 5' er but I stll am considering the 6' er. Thanks all!
CJ

 

[oldgeezer]

Having used all sizes of tractors with all sizes of rotary cutters, these are my thoughts. 1st, a rotary cutter (bush hog) cuts tall, thick grass smoother than short, sparse grass. They tend to just knock short grass down flat without cutting all of it. If the ground is smooth, a heavy duty finish mower does a much better job. 2nd a too small tractor with a too large hog is more of a nuisance than a help. The small tractor will operate the big hog under ideal conditions, but it fails miserably if the going gets just a little too tough. It's kind of like hiring a small dozer to do a big dozer job. You pay a lot less an hour but you pay for a lot more hours. Under most conditions with a 29 HP tractor you can actually mow more ground in less time with a 5 foot hog than with a 6 foot hog. You can move much faster, at least a gear higher, & get much smoother results as well.
I have used all kinds & brands of hogs & right now I am more satisfied with the one I now own than any before. I have a Woods Brush Bull BB60X which is a 5 footer. I pull it with a Kubota Grand L3240 which is 34 HP. My last b-4 this one was a 42 HP tractor & I had a Bush Hog medium duty in a 6 foot hog. The 34 Hp with the 5 foot cutter is smoother & faster overall than the 42 HP with the 6 foot cutter, especially when the going gets a little bit tight & a little bit tough. I like to be able to get the hog through the same space as the tractor without having to look back to see where the hog is going. You can buy a Brush Bull 5 footer which is a heavy medium for $1100.00 to $1400.00, but a 6 foot Brush Bull or a Bush Hog brand in a 6 foot will cost you around $2000.00 & up. I think King Kutter & Rhino & other comparable brands are around the same price. They are all tough machines but I believe this Woods cutter has the rest beat. The 5 footer is also much easier on the rear lift than a 6 footer & a drag type is just a pain in the rear to use.
Just my thoughts from my experience.

 

[CJBOTA]

oldgeezer,
You sound like a wise old geezer so I think I will take your advice. That is exactly what I wanted to hear. You can't beat experience. Thanks for sharing that experience.
CJ