Huber Maintainer.....Need Help

[Soundguy]

also remember that all 4 stud solenoids are not the same.

isolated base ones take + and - tot he small studs to operate.

others are ignition bypass style and take + to one terminal, and the other terminal provides + to the ignition coil , bypassing any ignition resistance in line.

be sure which you have.

also.. on 3 terminal units.. they can be wired internally hot so ground activates the termina ( like a ford 8n ) l, or internally grounded so hot activates the terminal.

soundguy

 

[Gods Country]

also remember that all 4 stud solenoids are not the same.

isolated base ones take + and - tot he small studs to operate.

others are ignition bypass style and take + to one terminal, and the other terminal provides + to the ignition coil , bypassing any ignition resistance in line.

be sure which you have.

also.. on 3 terminal units.. they can be wired internally hot so ground activates the termina ( like a ford 8n ) l, or internally grounded so hot activates the terminal.

soundguy

So any advice on how to make this determination?
This seems to be where I'm more than a little confused.:confused2:

 

[wdchyd]

With a volt/ohm meter or continuity tester you can determine which one you have by figuring if the internal wire goes to the + positive side or - negative side...

another way to find out would be to use the volt/ohm meter and test to see if you get positive signal from the small wire (normally connected to the small post but removed) when engaging the start switch.......this would show if the internal wiring in the solenoid is grounded to the negative side.....in this case you would read continuity from the small stud to the outside of the switch.....

if you read continuity from the positive (batt) side to the small stud then it will be like a Ford 8N where machine ground will activate the soleniod....

It's not as difficult as it seems to you......maybe just go to an Auto Parts store with part in hand and let them test it.....

 

[Gods Country]

It would appear that I have continuity between the small stud and the housing/mounting bracket.

I do not have continuity from the large stud to the small stud. In this case I had to check the stud that would go to the starter. The lead from the battery cannot be checked since this is where the issue occurred/was occurring. That particular stud no longer is insulated from the housing. In any case I don稚 believe it would matter which of the larger studs was connecting to the battery or starter.

Just to be clear on the wiring. There is a wire that was routed from the battery solenoid stud (the positive battery cable and this wire shared the same connection on the solenoid) which leads to the key. There is a jumper from the key to the starter switch (a push button). From that switch the circuit is completed via another wire back to the small stud on the solenoid.

So what do I have?

 

[wdchyd]

This one will be the easiest to find..very common...the positive signal coming from the start switch engages the solenoid.......Done......:thumbsup:

 

[wdchyd]

internally grounded so hot activates the terminal.

soundguy

:thumbsup:..........

 

[Soundguy]

yep...

 

[Gods Country]

Well I picked up a solenoid today at Napa. Checked it the same way I checked the old one. Dropped it in and presto, fully functioning grader. :thumbsup: Total cost $13

A huge thank you to Wdchyd & Soundguy for steering me in the right direction, so I didn't cook three different solenoid's (or anything else) before finding the correct one.

Now I've got more work to do!

 

[wdchyd]

Go Gettum..!!

 

[Soundguy]

glad to help.

soundguy