Husqvarna Tiller (long post)

   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #1  

Baucom

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Joined
Feb 10, 2005
Messages
360
Location
Boiling Springs, SC
Tractor
MF 2823
When I was searching for info on mid-range rear tine tillers a month or so ago, there wasn't much to be found about mid-range tillers other than some Troy Bilts, so I thought I'd post my experience with my new Husqvarna 700DRT. Hopefully this will prove useful to someone at some point.

I'll begin with a little background about my tiller search. I planted my first garden this spring, about 500 sq. ft., and used an old mid-tine Merry Tiller to break ground. On my hard ground it nearly beat me to death and took about 3 hrs to break an area 20'x25'. I wanted to expand to about 1000 sq. ft. this year and 1500 sq. ft. next yr. and wasn't looking forward to wrestling my old tiller for hrs. just to break new ground, so I decided a good rear tine tiller would make life easier. I set a budget of around $800 give or take about $100--I didn't feel justified spending a couple thousand on a top of the line tiller like BCS, Grillo, or Honda, when I felt that a good mid range tiller with proper maintenance would last many years.

My short list included a Cub Cadet RT65, Troy Bilt Pro Line CRT, Troy Bilt Super Bronco, Husqvarna 700DRT, and a Craftsman dual directional rear tine model. The Cub Cadet was impossible to find around here--there are 2 local dealers, 1 I had a bad experience with and the other was having issues ordering tillers from MTD, so the CC RT65 was out. The Pro Line CRT and Super Bronco were very little different from one another with the exception of a Honda GC engine, bumper, and 1" larger tires on the Pro Line Model for $50. Again, my good local dealer was having issues ordering from MTD and had no Pro Line models in stock, but did have a Super Bronco. The Husqvarna appeared to be a nice, well built tiller, but knowing it was a near twin to the Craftsman, which had more than just a few transmission issues mentioned in Sears' reviews concerned me a little. I also checked out the Craftsman at Sears, and it appeared nice enough, but I was concerned it was built to a lower standard than the Husqvarna, and there wasn't a huge price difference between Sears and my local Husqvarna dealer.

Ultimately it came down to the Super Bronco, Husqvarna 700DRT and the Craftsman. I had a couple of issues with the Super Bronco: it weighs about 50 lbs less than the AYP twins, it had smaller tires, a no name MTD engine vs. B&S on the AYP units, and I was concerned on a lightweight tiller about compromising by having only counter rotating tines (good for ground breaking but less good for cultivating). There wound up only being $50 between the Husqvarna and Craftsman ($679 at the least from Sears and $730 from my local Husqvarna dealer). When I bought the Craftsman was up to $879, $150 more than the Husqvarna from my local dealer. At any rate, the Husqvarna was worth its premium vs. the lowest price on the Craftsman. The Husqvarna has a B&S 206cc engine with cast iron liner; the Craftsman had a slightly smaller displacement B&S without the cast iron liner. Plus, I have the support of a good local dealer in the event anything goes wrong.

As for the Husqvarna tiller itself, I have been thoroughly pleased with it. I brought it home and put it to the test breaking new ground that was dry as a bone and hard as concrete with ankle high grass growing on it. I made 3 passes with the tiller in counter rotating mode, 1 with the depth stake 2 holes from it's highest setting, 1 pass 2 holes from the deepest setting, and then a 3rd pass at the deepest setting. Each pass was made at a right angle to the previous pass and after 3 passes I had a nice fluffy seedbed about 6-7" deep. I didn't have high expectations due to the conditions, but the tiller performed flawlessly (though I choked on the dust). The tiller starts on the first or second pull, shifts gears smoothly, though occassionally you must "double clutch" it, has adequate traction even in loose soil, and can be guided with 1 hand so long as you don't try to set the depth stake too deep when breaking new ground. Forward rotating mode does a great job with the drag stake at its lowest setting when cultivating existing crops, as well as for mixing in compost or lime.

At this point, the only minor drawbacks to this tiller are that I wish it had 16" tires like the Cub Cadet, and the tines don't rotate fast enough for "power composting". However, I can say that I've never had to push the tiller through loose soil, it has always been able to pull itself (you just can't have too much traction), and I doubt any tiller with a single speed gearbox will spin the tines fast enough for power composting (and I wonder how well even a BCS will do it since it is mentioned in their literature).

In all, I would give the Husqvarna 700DRT an 8 out of 10, and for the price paid, I would say it's a 9. I would definately buy this model again.

Disclaimer: I have had this tiller for a couple of wks now and put about 6 hrs on it so far. I'll provide future updates as the hrs build to see how it holds up.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #2  
Great in depth review! Based on what was available in your area and budget, I'd say you made a good choice. For what it's worth, you can fill the tires with liquid to add extra weight and I believe that there are wheel weights also available. Nice to able to use one hand, isn't it? Sure beats being being drug around getting your arms "stretched out" with a front tine tiller. I use an old Troy-Bilt horse madel, and your technique of making several passes while lowering the tines incrementally is exactly what is described in Troy's manual and works well for starting a garden in existing sod.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #3  
I tried that Cub Cadet, took it back, the wheel pins kept breaking and it was hard to select the right gear.

I now use a TroyBilt CRT, works good, only downside is that it has no neutral gear. (no extra charge shipping/no tax on their website)
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post)
  • Thread Starter
#4  
jinjimbob said:
I tried that Cub Cadet, took it back, the wheel pins kept breaking and it was hard to select the right gear.

I now use a TroyBilt CRT, works good, only downside is that it has no neutral gear. (no extra charge shipping/no tax on their website)


I was tempted by the TB CRT models for the quality and the lifetime warranty, and when I looked at the Pro Line and Super Bronco CRT I noticed there was no neutral and if you needed to push the tiller you had pull the wheel pins and slide the wheels in, then push the wheels back out and put the pins back through them. I'm sure when you get used to it that it is no big deal when you need to do it. One thing about the TBs that I did really like and was hard to find on anything else in the price range is the ability to drain and refill the gear lube in the transmission. It eased my mind and made me feel much better about buying the Husqvarna when I first read the owners manual (before buying) and realized that it has a grease fitting on the transmission housing. My first thought when I saw "sealed transmission" was "lubed for life" and I was glad to realize that it wasn't and I would be able to grease it at regular intervals.

Joe -- I probably will add liquid to the tires at some point for extra traction. I haven't run out of traction yet, but I'd rather have it available and not need it than for it to just spin and wish I'd added weight. On the subject of making multiple passes to break new sod, one common theme I noticed when I was doing my research was that most people who complained of their tiller either bucking or running away would eventually admit to starting out too deep trying to bust sod. Before I bought, I read the Husqvarna owners manual, and that is also how it recommends breaking sod. I think it is great, I just walk along behind and guide while the tiller does all the hard work.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post)
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Tiller Update:

Tiller has been performing great, until yesterday. I've put around 8 hrs on it, expanding the garden about 3 times its original size and cultivating (before everything grew too much to squeeze down the middles). The tiller does a great job breaking sod, and when the soil has a little moisture in it, it acts like it could dig to China. Overall I've been really pleased with this purchase.

Now, for the downside. Yesterday evening (8/22) I was tilling in some old cornstalks getting a spot ready to plant some broccoli. I made a couple of passes and then BANG and the tiller choked. I looked it over and didn't notice anything out of place, so cranked it again, and as soon as I put it in gear it took off across the garden with me chasing it. I killed the engine and this time noticed the chewed up belt hanging out of the belt guard.

I pulled it apart this morning and found that the idler pulley was a little loose where it attaches to the transmission housing/frame. Under load, the slack apparently let the idler pulley wobble just enough for the belt to jump track and it chewed it up pretty bad--kinda looked like Bigfoot got ahold of the belt. I put a drop of removeable Locktite on the bolt that holds the idler pulley on and tightened it, so hopefully it won't be coming loose again any time soon. The new belt is on order from the dealer, so hopefully I'll get it all back together by Tues. or Wed. and see what happens.

Hopefully this won't be a recurring event.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #6  
Tilling under old corn stalks is a really tough job. Makes my Troy-Bilt Horse jump a bit and it's about the hardest plant material I have ever tilled under, so your machine did fairly well. As for power composting, I till the soil first, then spread the compost material, which in my case was usually freshly raked leaves in the fall and that technique seemed to work well.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #7  
Based on this thread I purchased a 700 DRT today:D

As soon as I got it home this evening, I put it to the hardest garden in the world, sandy clay stuff down here in the tidewater area of Virginia. I was pleased how this tiller performed. It was getting dark so I had to put it away..boohoo..lol.

Anyway I did run one line in some new ground and after three passes, it chopped the ground up pretty good. It jumped around a little, but I need to tweak my technique a little. Thanks for the informative, and positive post about this tiller. I don't think I'm going to be disappointed.

I'll post how things go when I triple the size of my garden:eek:
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post)
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Glad I could help someone. I originally posted my review simply because of my frustration trying to find honest hands-on tiller reviews when I was shopping. There were plenty of Troy Bilt reviews and people willing to heap praise on their BCS machines. I really believe the Husqvarna 700DRT is the best value going for a quality mid-range tiller right now.

As for corn stalks being tough to till under...I try to help the tiller a little by hacking up the stalks with a machete as I cut them down. I try to cut them down in roughly 1 ft. sections so the tiller doesn't have to deal with the full length of the stalks. Still, it is tough going, but after a couple of passes the stalks were chopped up and tilled in nicely.

Update on the chewed up belt situation: I picked up my new belt today from my dealer. I couldn't be more pleased with their service--I visited the dealer Sat. a.m. to check if they had a belt, they didn't and told me they'd order it first thing Monday and give me a call when it came in. They called me around noon Tuesday and I picked up my belt at lunch. I'd recommend the folks at Boiling Springs Small Engine to anyone nearby in the Upstate SC or Western NC area. It's been pouring rain all day today, so I didn't get a chance to put the belt on and reassemble the tiller yet--not that it matters since we've had nearly 4" of rain and it's still coming down so it'll be a while before the ground is dry enough to till again.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post)
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Further update: With all the rain we've been getting, I had to put my tiller back together so I could get the mower out of the building and cut the grass before it got too far out of control. Good news: I put my new belt on, and everything went back together in about 5 minutes. The tiller works perfectly--exactly as it did before eating the belt.

Now a cautionary word--Ghog, you may want to check this on your new tiller--one would think that if a foam precleaner was supposed to be oiled, that it would come that way from the factory. Not so on MY tiller. The book says to check/clean the precleaner every 25 hrs, more often in excessively dirty conditions. I've put maybe 9 or 10 hrs on my tiller, and today decided to clean the precleaner (which on my mower--Kohler Command engine--does a great job). I was surprised to find that the precleaner was 1) not very dirty and 2) not oily. Checked the manual and it is supposed to be oiled, as I'm pretty sure all foam precleaners are to be effective. All of the dirt that should have stuck to the oil that should've been on the precleaner got sucked through the carb into the engine.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #10  
Any further information on this model? I am looking to buy a tiller and the Husqvarna so far looks to be the best. I think tomorrow I will run up to my local dealer and see what he has. I have a Husqvarna chainsaw and it has been great. If it is priced similarly to a Craftsman I would also go with the Husqvarna. Does anyone know if Husqvarna makes the Craftsman model?
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post)
  • Thread Starter
#11  
There's really nothing new that I can say about this tiller, other than it has handled every task I've thrown at it without complaint and with plenty of power to spare. The Craftsman model is made by AYP (maker of the Husqvarna) but there are small details that are nicer on the Husqvarna, and the price is close between the Husqvarna and comparable Craftsman. One feature that isn't mentioned and that I overlooked until after I bought the Husqvarna, is that the Husqvarna has a B&S engine with a cast-iron cylinder liner, while the Craftsman doesn't have a cast-iron liner. It's a small detail, but it does mean the Husqvarna has a somewhat more commercial quality engine than the Craftsman and also made me wonder what other parts of the Husqvarna are higher grade than the Craftsman. I paid $749 for my Husqvarna here in SC and at the time the Craftsman was $789. The cheapest I have seen the top of the line DRT Craftsman was $689 last spring.

I will add that I just checked Sears website and if you're interested in this model, the Craftsman is currently on sale for $689 and after a 5% mail in rebate (if you pay cash) it is $655.39. While I really enjoy my Husqvarna and appreciate it's additional features, I personally would not see $100 additional value in the Husqvarna vs. Craftsman. If this deal had been available when I bought, my tiller would be black, not orange.
 
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   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #12  
Thanks for the response. I went and saw a dealer the other day and he said the price went up to $799.95. They were $749 until they had a price hike at their last order. I also read the reviews on the Sears website and I saw some complaints on the shear pins. Guess I will be calling around.
 
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   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post)
  • Thread Starter
#13  
The design of the tines on the Husqvarna and Craftsman are the same, so unless Husqvarna uses higher grade shear pins, then there is no difference there. Plus, I'd argue that many who complained of shear pin issues likely were partially to blame for the failure--I suspect that they tried to go too deep too quickly on ground that was too dry. I haven't had a shear pin probem yet, and I have tilled some pretty hard ground and turned up some good sized rocks. However, I do make several passes over the ground I'm tilling, going incrementally deeper on each pass, instead of attempting to make 1 deep pass. Also, tilling a couple of days after a decent rain, setting up a sprinkler for a bit before tilling makes sod-busting go much better. Once the sod is broken you can go full depth easily.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #14  
I just bought a Husqvarna 700DRT tiller and I'm very frustrated. I hope someone can convince me that I heavn't made a very expensive mistake by purchasing this machine.

Within minutes of starting to till my garden with the new machine, the tines picked up a stone and threw it against the shield. The front of the shield was bent so badly that it made contact with the tire. Even the steel bracket that holds the shield in place was badly bent. After several hours of removing the shield, straightening it, and reinstalling it, I had it running again. A few minutes later it picked up another stone and bent the shield again, although this time not as much. I didn't have to remove the shield. I don't think my soil is particularly harsh. I've had a garden in this spot for 30 years, although I did add several inches of additional soil last fall. Does it make sense that an occasional stone will cause major damage to the tiller?

I'm very disappointed with the way the shifting mechanism works. I figured out the "double clutching" routine but it still takes at least three or four attempts to select the right gear position. I have to exert such a force on the shifting lever that, sooner or later, something is going to break. It's hard to believe that a high-end machine like this is actually designed to operate in such a manner.

I also found that I had to exert a lot of energy to keep the machine tracking straight. The 1 handed guiding that was I was expecting was impossible. I was constantly horsing it around to make it go where I wanted it to. It actually felt more difficult to handle than my 45 year-old front tine tiller.

To give you an idea of my level of frustration, after using this machine, I made one final attempt to resurrect my old tiller. (No luck. It's dead.)

If any body has any words of wisdom, I could sure use them now.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #15  
I have some family up in the fingerlakes region and their idea of a stone and my idea of a stone are sometimes two different things. :D If the tines are rotating fast enough and you give them something big enough to jam in there something has got to give. Luckily it's not the drive train. It's only a mid grade tiller so calling it a high end model is a stretch. If you had paid 3k for a BCS, Grillo or the like then I would be furious but it is what it is. The shifting may get better but I would check fluids/grease and any linkage adjustments to see if it would yield any improvement. As far as tracking goes make sure both tires have equal tire pressure and if they do then check the circumference of each to make sure it's close. If it doesn't have a preference wich way it pulls check the tiller tines to see if you have one bent(or more). This can also give you a ill handling tiller. Good luck.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post)
  • Thread Starter
#16  
To begin with, I fully understand your disappointment when a new machine lets you down like this. Hopefully your experience with the Husqvarna will improve as you use it more.

I don't know what size rocks you have up there in NY, but what happened to you and your tiller can, and likely would, happen to any <$2000 walk behind in those circumstances. When the tines grab a rock, they're either going to bounce over it or grab it and if the tines grab a rock they'll either slam it into the tine shield and/or you'll break a shear pin. Just this past weekend my 700DRT dug up half a brick while tilling a flower bed for the wife, and it jammed it between the tine shield and tines. Fortunately nothing broke, it just stalled the engine. I restarted and reversed the tines to dislodge the brick. My advice would be to straighten it out and if necessary, reinforce the bracket and shield. That would still be far cheaper than upgrading to a high end commercial machine like a BCS or Grillo-and even that wouldn't be a guarantee that rocks couldn't cause similar damage. These tillers are ground engaging tools and are subject to greater abuse than most other lawn and garden equipment--it's pretty violent under that tine shield.

As for difficult shifting--lube the linkage and grease the transmission case. Other than that, I still have to "double clutch" often. I have found that it seems to shift better when I get a little slack in the shift linkage and shift quickly through the gears to the one I need. If I just slowly push the shift lever it very often binds and I can see the shift rod begin to flex a little. That's about the best I can do with explaining the shifting this evening.

I second shot_gun's suggestions to remedy tracking issues, if it's actually a tracking issue. I've found that if I make 2 passes immediately beside one another, then one wheel is running in a furrow and the tiller leans to one side, which causes it to pull to the downhill (freshly tilled) side. The manual recommends (and I've found it to be true) skipping a swath between passes, then coming back and tilling the middles. This keeps the tiller level, as both wheels are either on untilled ground or both on tilled ground instead of having one wheel on untilled ground while the other sinks into freshly tilled soil. Usually when I break ground in this manner, I can guide it easily with 1 hand, but if I try to make passes directly side by side then I have to wrestle it more to keep it tracking straight.

Though the Husqvarna 700DRT still costs a good bit of money new, it is not a high end tiller like BCS, Honda, and Grillo, it is a mid range machine that is a good notch above entry level rear tine tillers found at box stores. The dual rotating tines and commercial grade engine with cast iron sleeve are 2 items that drive the price up a couple hundred dollars vs. entry level tillers.

I hope that helped you out at least a little bit. I'll do my best to answer any other questions you may have. First hand experience with any given tiller besides Craftsman, Troy Bilt, and to a lesser extent BCS, is hard to come by. So far I have about 15 hrs on my Husqvarna and it's working out well for me--but we don't have many large rocks, just heavy clay.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #17  
I have the Ariens model which is a twin of the Husky tiller. Mine has a Robin Subaru engine on it that is outstanding. It has started on the first pull EVERY time and seems very solid. The handle adjustment and the shifter are not top drawer but work OK. It does not come with a lot of extra features but it is a dual rotating heavy built tiller with a great motor on it. I bet it will last 20 years.
 
   / Husqvarna Tiller (long post) #18  
I just bought a Husqvarna 700DRT tiller and I'm very frustrated. I hope someone can convince me that I heavn't made a very expensive mistake by purchasing this machine.

Within minutes of starting to till my garden with the new machine, the tines picked up a stone and threw it against the shield. The front of the shield was bent so badly that it made contact with the tire. Even the steel bracket that holds the shield in place was badly bent. After several hours of removing the shield, straightening it, and reinstalling it, I had it running again. A few minutes later it picked up another stone and bent the shield again, although this time not as much. I didn't have to remove the shield. I don't think my soil is particularly harsh. I've had a garden in this spot for 30 years, although I did add several inches of additional soil last fall. Does it make sense that an occasional stone will cause major damage to the tiller?

I'm very disappointed with the way the shifting mechanism works. I figured out the "double clutching" routine but it still takes at least three or four attempts to select the right gear position. I have to exert such a force on the shifting lever that, sooner or later, something is going to break. It's hard to believe that a high-end machine like this is actually designed to operate in such a manner.

I also found that I had to exert a lot of energy to keep the machine tracking straight. The 1 handed guiding that was I was expecting was impossible. I was constantly horsing it around to make it go where I wanted it to. It actually felt more difficult to handle than my 45 year-old front tine tiller.

To give you an idea of my level of frustration, after using this machine, I made one final attempt to resurrect my old tiller. (No luck. It's dead.)

If any body has any words of wisdom, I could sure use them now.

If a shear pin has broken on one side of the tines, the tiller will drift to one side...
 

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