HV5902 installation guide on my Ford 4100

[Timpy]

Hello guys,

I have a 4600 tractor and already struggling quite a while on connecting the front end loader valves to the tractor... After reading this thread I think probably somebody could help me out? I made a similar plate as the HV5902 my own but would like to know which holes are used directly in the tractor rear axle housing. Probably all holes run through and are just brought to the side so something else could be added? Or does some holes need to blocked. I have a selector plate, so I put this plate in between.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Harry in Ky]

You lost me part way back. You made your own sandwich plate but you don't know which holes are which? If that's the case how could you know which ports in the block to connect to connect with internal passages? I think your game plan was missing a few pages at the outset here. Maybe you can post a few photos of your creation.

 

[Timpy]

Thanks Harry in Ky for the fast reply.
I will try to explain the situation;

The tractor had a front end loader mounted on it when I bought it. It was mounted on the selector valve underneath the driver seat. So the pressure line ran to the external valve and returned to the sump of the rear axle housing. See the 3 pictures I've attached to this text.

 

[Timpy]

This was the begin situation, but you could only use the front end loader OR the 3point hitch. AND the lever of the 3 point hitch must be up.
A while ago I had a dangerous situation where the lever was still up and I switched the selector valve (pulled it out). So the lift went up and the lift that was on the back hit my cabin and broke my working lights at the back.
So I start looking around and found this topic.
I started making also a plate that could be mounted in between the selector valve and the tractor hydraulics as a sandwich without changing anything to the system.
I drilled all holes following the pattern of the selector valve and made connections to the side in a similar way as the plate I saw here and of pictures over the internet. I even made a 3D drawing with a cut trough so it was easier to route the connections (it's attached to this text).
As I made it myself and after trying all kind combinations I am doubting 2 things:
- do I made the connections on a different way internally
- is the external valve good for this application (din oil ML2)

 

[Timpy]

As I wrote above, the valve is a DIN OIL valve ML2 type. A more specific typenumber I don't find on it. In the meanwhile I found a datasheet of it and saw that power beyond (carry over) functionalities are possible. But I don't know the internals of this valve of course...
The only thing I see, is that the port where the carry over must be done, has a thread more deeper in the valve (G1/4)than the one on the surface (G3/8). After going trough the manual I saw there is a 'carry over kit' which contains only a G1/4 plug. So in my point of view I need to plug the thread below and connect the upper thread as the 'beyond power' connection. I don't know this is common?
Attached some pictures of the valve

 

[Harry in Ky]

Well it looks like it should work. At least the concept is correct. Your loader valve looks good as well, and yes some do use a plug threaded into an internal port to convert to power beyond. That seems simple enough.

 

[Timpy]

It doesn't work like this, that's the reason why I'm writing this text... Do somebody know the internal connections of the block?

 

[TractorTech]

I'm redoing all the plumbing on my tractor and loader. The hoses are old and cracked, and I also want to change up the loader valve and rear remotes.

This is my tractor, late 70's Ford 4100. It has the internal hydraulic pump. Some tractors have an engine mounted pump or earlier Ford's had a pump mounted off the rear of the engine somewhere - in those instances you may have some other options. Not what I have though.
View attachment 740651

Anyways, I am using the HV5902 adapter plate with power beyond (NOT the HV4902 without power beyond). The reasoning is because the power beyond line will relieve the pressure on the new loader valve. The power beyond port on the adapter plate returns directly into the sump of the tractor. It's not necessary for this to work, but why not. It will be easier on the valve - cheap insurance in my opinion.

For whatever it's worth, I called Bailey Hydraulics (where I got my valve from), and talked with their tech department. They assured me if I wanted to use the HV4902 adapter plate and only use two hoses, that their valves could take the constant pressure that setup would create. Ultimately I talked with a member on here who guided me in the direction of using the HV5902, and I think it's the best way to go.

The adapter plate is aluminum. I stoned both sides to get it relatively flat and take the burs off. It comes with O-rings, a bunch of bolts, some fittings, and instructions. The O-rings stay in the plate good, but if they don't (because that side goes face down on the tractor) just use some vasoline to hold them in place.
View attachment 740653View attachment 740654View attachment 740655View attachment 740656View attachment 740669

My tractor came with this oddball triple spool valve. Which was fine, but the loader didn't have float - and I want that. One of the many reasons I'm doing all this work. It only had 4 bolts holding it in. So no big deal pulling it off. I talked to a few old Ford dealerships near me, and none of them were able to identify this spool valve. Seems to be an aftermarket thing. I've never seen pictures of it online anywhere.
View attachment 740657View attachment 740658View attachment 740659

The problem was that now I didn't have a blocking plate for the top of the adapter plate. If your tractor doesn't have any hydraulics - it will simply be bolted in place where my old spool valve was. Other tractors might have some remotes, and there will be a selector valve on top - which will let you divert flow to either your remotes or the three point.

The beauty of this adapter plate is that you can just put the blocking plate (Ford Part# C5NN475B) on top of it. You don't need the selector valve thing and your three point will still work normally as well as whatever you plumb off the adapter plate. But if you want to you, you can use the selector valve on top. Not sure why you would want to though.

Update to an old post. That "oddball valve" you took off of your tractor was a Gannon McGee valve that was a real common valve used on landscape top and tilt tractors in the west. Ford used to offer it in the 60s and 70s. Woods bought Gannon.