spiderlk
SO let me make sure I understand you. I understand the procedure, except the last part of letting the lever go. In my case, when the rod is all the way back IN the cylinder, it will squirt fluid. So based on that, I assume that's when it's most under pressure, and when fully extended it's under the least pressure.
So according to your instructions, are you saying the motor should be running and it extended while soaking in the acetone?
Thanks
Sorry I wasnt clear. ... No, the splitter should be warmed but off and cooling as you work to clean and seal it. - To warm you can park it out in the sun for awhile -- then you should start it and cycle it a few times so any air in the rod end is flushed. End with the cyl retracted as near the stop as you dare and cut off the splitter.
Now, I said to tie the lever in the retract position.
That was wrong. Leave the lever in the neutral/center position with splitter off and cooling as you work. ... So ~ repeated below
with correction:
,,,,,,,, We can get the cyl to suck by starting out with the hyd fluid warm and sealing it into the cyl using the valve. The warming can be done by working the splitter for awhile,
or just setting it out in the hot sun for a couple hours. Then, cycle the splitter and retract the rod but not quite to the stop. Cut the splitter off and leave the control lever centered. The large amt of fluid on the rod end will contract but wont be able to pull any oil through the centered valve so there will be suction on the pinhole as it cools. ... While cooling in the shade you use a benign solvent on the outside of the hole - just a couple drops and let it be sucked through to the inside to de oil the hole. [[Use pure alcohol or acetone, NOT Brake Clean because it leaves a bad and dangerous/poison residue that can only be flashed off with a lot of heat.]] A hardware store should have the acetone.
Due to all the warm mass the cooling will be gradual and give you a good hour or so of fluid contraction, so you wont have to hurry. -- Apply a drop of acetone, wait 5 minutes then apply intense
short term heat to the endcap. If using a propane torch use near, NOT on, the pinhole because water is a byproduct of combustion and youre not going to heat enough to boil it off. Just localized hot to the touch - shield the seal from any touch of flame.
... Repeat the solvent rinse a few minutes later if you want. The last one especially should be flashed similarly with a couple localized heat cycles as the cyl as a whole cools. -- This should leave the hole pretty clean and dry. - The cyl is still ~ lukewarm, cooling slowly and "inhaling". ... Soon, at your leisure, apply a drop of wicking Loctite to the pinhole; If it just sits there leave it alone, If it goes right in wait a few minutes and apply another drop. Repeat once or twice until it is fully cool. About 1hr later apply one last drop and move the control valve lever to either the advance or retract position. Either will release any vacuum in the system. No bubbles coming out of the pinhole is a good sign.
... Let it sit overnight and then soak all day in the sun
with the valve lever tied either way off center [to prevent pressure build up from the expanding oil] to get a good cure on the Loctite before use.
I have deleted the original post. That valve info was wrong and its best not left here as a potential time bomb.
