Oil & Fuel hyd. filter change

   / hyd. filter change #11  
No shop vac, no quickie filter swap, no magic potions - just do it the correct way. Like BufordBoone suggests.

I "borrowed" one of my wife's Tupper Ware quilt storage containers. I was, at first, thinking of five gallon buckets. Knowing my luck - I'd end up with four gallons in the first bucket and, then, twelve gallons on the ground.

My M6040 holds sixteen plus gallons of hydraulic fluid. The Tupper Ware container worked great. Come to find out - it's a twenty gallon container. I bought the wife a new container.

I drained all the hydraulic fluid into the container - put a plastic bucket under the hydraulic filters ( there are two ) - loosened these filter and let them drain into the bucket - installed two new filters - poured the hydraulic fluid back into the tractor.

The ONLY fluid I lost - what stuck to the bucket and quilt storage container.
Coming up on my 50 hour service on my Kioti DK4510 I was going to use 5 gal buckets as well, but after reading this I was reminded that I have a bunch of those storage bins that should work the same. A slight variation though, I bought an inexpensive battery operated transfer pump from Harbor Freight to (possibly) pump out most hydro fluid from the top, swap filter with minimal loss, use same pump to put it back in and top off as needed. I will likely be posting soon on one of two other forums... Harbor Freight Tools That Suck or Harbor Freight Tools That Don't Suck...

 
   / hyd. filter change #13  
I busted an O-ring in the quick connect for the remote supplying the front end loader last week. Limped the tractor back to its storage area while still hemorrhaging oil. Figured it would be a good time to replace the o-ring and change the oil since I had no clue when it was last changed. Purchased it with 2500 or so hours now up to 2700. Called Messick's and they gave me the dims (.799" x.103 CS)on the O-ring which lined up as an AS568-117 They wanted $9.50 for the New Holland packged O-ring. Nobody around here has the 90 durometer O-ring so I replaced it with a 70(A set of which were given to me by the hydraulics place just down the road) to let me get back to work. I will order 2 sets of 90s next week. Drained the rear end and tranny and got 6 gallons out plus the filters. Pulled and inspected the screen with no real findings and put 10 gallons back. Book says it should have been closer to 12. 10 gallons got everything a bit over full and when I started it up and exercised the three point and the FEL everything was as close to the full mark as I could want.
 
   / hyd. filter change #15  
Are the filters fed by a hose? I am not familiar with Kubota but you might be able to clamp the hose and change them.

James
 
   / hyd. filter change #16  
Coming up on my 50 hour service on my Kioti DK4510 I was going to use 5 gal buckets as well, but after reading this I was reminded that I have a bunch of those storage bins that should work the same. A slight variation though, I bought an inexpensive battery operated transfer pump from Harbor Freight to (possibly) pump out most hydro fluid from the top, swap filter with minimal loss, use same pump to put it back in and top off as needed. I will likely be posting soon on one of two other forums... Harbor Freight Tools That Suck or Harbor Freight Tools That Don't Suck...

Well, trying to figure out which forum to post it to. It sucked some but not entirely. It worked but wasn't near as fast as advertised.

Was unable to pump out from top so I drained it to a 66 quart bin from Lowes.

I was originally going to reuse the oil but didn't like the looks of it in the clear bin, so I bought some Traveller's Universal Tractor fluid. I used the pump to transfer the new Hydro/Trans fluid from the 5 gal pails into the tractor, then from the plastic bin back into the buckets for recycling. It worked, but was fairly slow. It was better than trying tohold the 5 gal pails over a funnel. The pump is probably better suited for lower viscosity liquids like gasoline or diesel fuel.

There is a different pump I will try next time.
 

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   / hyd. filter change #17  
I used the shop vac method while changing the suction side filter on my log splitter a few years ago. It uses a short piece of 1in hose to the tank. I had a shop vac about 3/4 full of hydraulic fluid when I was done. What a mess.

I think il use a tube deflator next time and adapt it to the tank. Tube deflators use compresse air to make vacuum and are cheap.
 
   / hyd. filter change
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Thanks for all the replies , after talking with the dealer I decided to replace the 2 filters with new fluid . I am almost 80 yrs. old and will never have to do this again as the tractor is used less than 40 hrs. per year now . It just wasn't worth the chance of getting some contamination in the fluid if I dumped it all out etc. . With the hyd. shuttle the dealer recommends to change every 400 hrs. not 600 as in the manual and I had the 300 hrs. on it .
 
   / hyd. filter change #19  
I bought an inexpensive battery operated transfer pump from Harbor Freight to (possibly) pump out most hydro fluid from the top, swap filter with minimal loss, use same pump to put it back in and top off as needed.

Amazon has similar pumps with automatic shutoff. There's a float at the end of the output hose. Be sure it runs on 2 D cells or more, because power is marginal for higher viscosity fluids.

I used this to pump used UTF out of a big plastic storage bin into 5 gallon buckets for recycle. Very slow, but it worked. I finally put the bin on a little platform to pump downhill, this helped. Overall, far easier than trying to tip that storage bin into a funnel. Slow but no mess!

I use this to refuel the tractors from the 5 gallon jugs (and old UTF buckets with lid intact) that I use for fuel transport. I can also pump fuel out of one tractor for use in another if I don't want to go buy fuel. The automatic shutoff is very handy, recommended.


I then bought a cheap one to transfer drinking water from 6 gallon camp jugs into gallon bottles. This runs on AA batteries. Not recommended, it's slow pumping water. And it wasn't until page three of the manual that I found 'Do Not Use For Drinking Water'. That's not in the Amazon description or labelled on the box.


As for the 12 volt 290 gallon/hour pump - that could get real exciting at 5 gallons per minute. Maybe rig it where you can step on the cable and pull a plug out of a socket to disconnect the power quickly.
Those have a warning against volatile fuel. UTF and hydraulic fluid might be ok, I don't know.

Here's an application of that 12 volt pump for watering. Output is comparable to a garden hose.
kimg0683rhfpump1-jpg.430355
kimg0685rhfpump2-jpg.430356

(But a year later to deliver more water per trip to 100+ new orchard trees, I replaced this with a sump pump in an IBC tote).
 
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   / hyd. filter change #20  
...As for the 12 volt 290 gallon/hour pump - that could get real exciting at 5 gallons per minute. Maybe rig it where you can step on the cable and pull a plug out of a socket to disconnect the power quickly.
Good point. I figured 4.8 GPM would fill the tractor quickly, but didn't think it would be too fast. Maybe I'll put a washer in the hose fitting on discharge side of pump to act as a flow restricting orifice. I'd actually like to find something made like the little one but with a bit more capacity. Maybe I'll try hooking it up to a 6 volt battery instead of 3 volts from the 2 D cells?
 
 
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