HYD QUICK ATTACH GAUGE WHEELS
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MJPetersen
Veteran Member
3RRL said:
Rob,
I was was thinking of going the simpler route as I do not have a Rotary Cutter and while I can see the benefits for the RC, it did not seem to me that the parallel linkage would give as much a benefit in a RB set up. I visualize that in a RB you are mostly using the wheels for stability and consistency. The depth will stay at about just where the cutting edge hits the ground. This all from someone who has NEVER used a RB.
I have made my RB so that the blade can be dropped and a Rake put in, but I extended the structural member so that I had a mounting place for a set of wheels. Thanks for showing your work so that the rest of us can get creative juices flowing.Mike
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3RRL
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Mike,
I visualize that in a RB you are mostly using the wheels for stability and consistency. The depth will stay at about just where the cutting edge hits the ground.
You are right about that. Actually there is no real benefit from the self leveling feature except it keeps the wheel axles vertical all the time allowing for (perhaps) easier swiveling? It was just something different to do and looks really exotic. It is definitely not a necessity, though. lol ... You didn't expect anything less though, right?
No, they are tied together and go up and down together. What I do is lift them completely up (see above working photos) to do all my gutter cutting and road crowning. I use both hydraulic side links to angle the boxblade and of course the hyd top link too when they are up like that. The added weight (in addition to my already heavy boxblade) is an added benefit. I cut some gutters right through some hard DG (decomposed granite) where it used to skip over before. The ones through regular dirt were deep, man.
These wheels used on the boxblade are to get a super smooth surface once I have the desired crown. I experimented and cut only the tops off of some bumps in the road. Although I was able to do that before to some degree by using the 3pt positioning, if the tractor wheels went over a dip or bump it influenced the position of the boxblade. With these wheels, now it doesn't, since they (the wheels) ride over the smoothed out surface.
Another use is if I have to spread a constant thickness layer of dirt, sand or gravel. I can determine the thickness of the layer exactly (up to 4") and keep that position regardless of what the tractor tires are doing. The DPOCV guarantees it.
I visualize that in a RB you are mostly using the wheels for stability and consistency. The depth will stay at about just where the cutting edge hits the ground.
You are right about that. Actually there is no real benefit from the self leveling feature except it keeps the wheel axles vertical all the time allowing for (perhaps) easier swiveling? It was just something different to do and looks really exotic. It is definitely not a necessity, though. lol ... You didn't expect anything less though, right?
John, thanks.john_bud said:
No, they are tied together and go up and down together. What I do is lift them completely up (see above working photos) to do all my gutter cutting and road crowning. I use both hydraulic side links to angle the boxblade and of course the hyd top link too when they are up like that. The added weight (in addition to my already heavy boxblade) is an added benefit. I cut some gutters right through some hard DG (decomposed granite) where it used to skip over before. The ones through regular dirt were deep, man.
These wheels used on the boxblade are to get a super smooth surface once I have the desired crown. I experimented and cut only the tops off of some bumps in the road. Although I was able to do that before to some degree by using the 3pt positioning, if the tractor wheels went over a dip or bump it influenced the position of the boxblade. With these wheels, now it doesn't, since they (the wheels) ride over the smoothed out surface.
Another use is if I have to spread a constant thickness layer of dirt, sand or gravel. I can determine the thickness of the layer exactly (up to 4") and keep that position regardless of what the tractor tires are doing. The DPOCV guarantees it.
Gotcha!
So, can I count on you next time there are doubters that when using box blades more weight is better?
I am getting an easement to some land. It will be across three 40 acre parcels to get to 160 acres and the distance is about 1 mile. Many low spots that have to be raised and smoothed. Think I should make some "simple" wheels for my box or just give it a whirl as is? I wouldn't have hesitated before seeing your project, but is the improvement in control so much better that not having them is silly?
jb
So, can I count on you next time there are doubters that when using box blades more weight is better?
I am getting an easement to some land. It will be across three 40 acre parcels to get to 160 acres and the distance is about 1 mile. Many low spots that have to be raised and smoothed. Think I should make some "simple" wheels for my box or just give it a whirl as is? I wouldn't have hesitated before seeing your project, but is the improvement in control so much better that not having them is silly?
jb
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3RRL
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I have always been in the heavyweight corner, so you can count on me for that.
I know you have a very heavy duty boxblade as it is, so I would give it a shot without the wheels first. I must have ...what... over 250 hours (probably more) using mine without wheels. It worked just fine for me. I think with your box you can cut a lot of "humps" and fill the low spots, but it will depend on what kind of humps.
If they are gradual, over longer distances, I would rip it all first (the high spots) and then drag with rippers up and the cutting edge down into the dirt say 1" or 2" or so to even out. You might even have to back doze those kind to level out. You'll get pretty good results without wheels. But if you had the wheels, after having ripped and filled, the smoothness of grade would be much better with the wheels than without. That is what I'm finding out on my road now.
Now if you got little humps to cut off and little low spots, the wheels would come in really handy because you can cut the humps without having to rip first...especially with your heavy blade. The cutting edge should take care of those small ones and then dump into the small low spots no problem. And I think the heavier the the boxblade, the better it is for the wheel application and the better results.
So it depends on what you got in front of you.
I know you have a very heavy duty boxblade as it is, so I would give it a shot without the wheels first. I must have ...what... over 250 hours (probably more) using mine without wheels. It worked just fine for me. I think with your box you can cut a lot of "humps" and fill the low spots, but it will depend on what kind of humps.
If they are gradual, over longer distances, I would rip it all first (the high spots) and then drag with rippers up and the cutting edge down into the dirt say 1" or 2" or so to even out. You might even have to back doze those kind to level out. You'll get pretty good results without wheels. But if you had the wheels, after having ripped and filled, the smoothness of grade would be much better with the wheels than without. That is what I'm finding out on my road now.
Now if you got little humps to cut off and little low spots, the wheels would come in really handy because you can cut the humps without having to rip first...especially with your heavy blade. The cutting edge should take care of those small ones and then dump into the small low spots no problem. And I think the heavier the the boxblade, the better it is for the wheel application and the better results.
So it depends on what you got in front of you.
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
Rob,
Would you say that with the wheels that you can get a level surface more quickly than without. OK without the wheels you can go slowly and keep watch to adjust for the tractor's movements, but with the wheels on, it seems to me, that you would not have to watch the blade quite as closely, so that when you got the level started you could just go. Within reason of course as a faster speed will cause the bade to skate on hard portions more easily.
This seems to me to be a big advantage say for a road where you have longer stretches of relatively straight and flat grade.
So it seems to me,
Mike
Would you say that with the wheels that you can get a level surface more quickly than without. OK without the wheels you can go slowly and keep watch to adjust for the tractor's movements, but with the wheels on, it seems to me, that you would not have to watch the blade quite as closely, so that when you got the level started you could just go. Within reason of course as a faster speed will cause the bade to skate on hard portions more easily.
This seems to me to be a big advantage say for a road where you have longer stretches of relatively straight and flat grade.
So it seems to me,
Mike
PineRidge
Super Member
Coming into this thread late but I have to say that this is one of the better projects/ideas that I have seen here. The fact that it can be moved from one implement to another is a real plus.
Once you're satisfied with any refinements that you choose to make you should think about a patent and marketing the gadget.
Once you're satisfied with any refinements that you choose to make you should think about a patent and marketing the gadget.
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3RRL
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Mike,PineRidge said:
Thanks for the great compliment.
I'm glad you got a chance to see it. I've seen plenty of stuff you've made too. I like the versatility of moving it from implement to implement with a relatively easy receiver that fits all. And the easy hydraulic positioning of course.
Mike,
This seems to me to be a big advantage say for a road where you have longer stretches of relatively straight and flat grade.
Yeah, you are probably right. I just used my boxblade for so long with out them and got very good results ... had to do with what I had I guess. These wheels should make life a lot easier from now on.
PineRidge
Super Member
OK I watched your video this morning and all I could think about all afternoon was my aching back. If there was one thing I might recommend as a change is a 3rd caster wheel about were shown that could be pinned in place just before lowering the rig to park it. That way you could wheel it to the tractor without giving yourself a hernia and once attached lift the implement and remove the 3rd wheel. It would also be possible to pull the pins and pull away from the wheels (don't forget to undo the hydraulics).
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SkunkWerX
Platinum Member
PineRidge said:
Mike, I am thinking about your suggestion for the 3rd caster and see your point. I think it's the cumbersome nature of the shape of the object. I fear the 3rd caster might add even mor substantial weight? maybe?
How about a set of wheel barrow handles that could be affixed once the wheels are removed, or, affix just prior to removal?
Picture the dogleg pieces rotated 180 so they were more easily grasped without so much stopping and bending?
I know!! On the back of the wheel assembly, fabricate a 3 Pt hitch assembly, so you can attach to them and drive away with them to the next implement!
kidding, of course.Closely spaced FEL forks would make short work of pick up and carry.
We will keep Rob busy in the machine shop for months to come!
PineRidge has sparked a question (apologies in advance if the answer is contained on one of these threads) What is the Overall weight of the wheels assembly? If not known, a guesstimate would do?
