Hyd. Top Link: This Can't be Right?

[Bill_in_MI]

Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

I received my hydraulic top link from Carter and Carter today. I ordered a Cat. 1. The fixed end of the cylinder is set up with 3/4 inch pin sleeve, as expected. The rod end of the cylinder has a 1 inch ball/sleeve on it. This must be a mistake, unless the world changed while I last slept. I'll certainly take it up with C &C in the morning, but I thought I would try a sanity check here in the meantime. Thanks,

 

[ronjhall]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

I had a Top Link with a 3/4 and 1" hole in it. Could yours have the other size hole in the ball by just rotating it?

 

[JerryG]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

You have to use a bushing on one end. That is the reason that I haven't ordered one yet as well as wanting a 18" cylinder. I don't know if you read their site or not but here is what it says.

<font color="blue"> Hyd. Toplink Cat 1- 19-27.5" w/ check valve- 2" Cylinder Implement end CAT 1 & 2, Tractor end CAT 1 </font>

 

[JSUnlimited]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

Bill,
I've been looking at these and I think the one you bought has cat. 1 on one end and cat. 2 on the rod end. There should be a bushing included to slip in there to make it cat. 1.....unless they don't include it.....for the price though....it should be.

 

[Bill_in_MI]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

Well...I looked and that's what it says...not what you would call fine print either. I didn't look real hard at the site...just enough to get the phone number and call. My fault for not checking this out further...usually I go overboard the other way. Anyway, there is no bushing included and I check the ball by rotating...only the one size hole. Using a bushing would not seem to be too bad, but the problem is the overall size of the implement end is bigger...looks gigantic. And, I just ran around out back in the dark and cold snow checking the fit on all my implements. The sleeve does not fit between the pin members on about half my "stuff." I've got that sinking feeling I may have a semi-useful device here. Not exactly what I had in mind. I'll see what remedies may be available tomorrow...I'll report back for educational purposes.

 

[PineRidge]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

As a last resort it's a pretty easy task to cut and weld any end that you desire on the cylinder.

 

[Bill_in_MI]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

I was wondering about that. Was not sure if the shafts are hardened or what. I have a horizontal band saw, grinders, Mig welder, gas outfit, etc. I know you can purchase the ball ends at various locations. If this is possible, and I can't get a good remedy from CCM, I may look further. I would probably take it to a shop for welding. I can make some things stick together, but I probably would look for a pro for this job. Thanks.

 

[PineRidge]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

We re-welded the end on a cylinder shaft used for a TN70D and it hasn't let go yet. Where there's a will usually there's a way. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

If you are worried how your bead looks weld it then grind it to make it look purty.....

 

[skipmarcy]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

Bill, it's not difficult to weld a new end on your cylinder. When I built my toplink I used a generic cylinder with clevis ends and got the weld-on Cat. 1 ends from Tractor Supply for about $7. My cylinder has a 1 1/2" rod and I cut it off with a hacksaw by hand. I borrowed a friend's arc welder and got it attached just fine and I'm definitely not a welder. Has held up just fine with some mighty heavy loads on it over the last 6 months or so. What's nice about it is you can get your retracted length shorter if needed, like I did for my tractor - more often than not you'll have too little retraction for some implements and way too much extension than you're likely to need. I like being able to tilt my boxblade way forward (retracted cylinder) to get the scarifiers down hard and it also helps alot when sharpening the blades on the bushog - not to mention when loading on/off the trailer. Make sure the rod is extended well before welding so as not to damage the seal - if you can't pull it out by hand, some gentle air pressure from a blowgun will do it.

 

[Bill_in_MI]

Re: Hyd. Top Link: This Can\'t be Right?

Thanks for that advice...and encouragement. I am definately into modification mode. I talked with Mark at CCM (nice guy) and there are no product options. These things come from overseas and it's a hit or miss situation as to what he actually gets versus what he orders. In the short term, he suggested grinding/cutting the Cat 2 sleeve narrower so it fits between the "saddles" of my implements, and using a bushing to get the pin diameter to 3/4 inch. I don't have a problem with that if it works. I have the grinders, etc and enough experience to do that ok. I think he would do it if I sent it back, but I'd rather not hassle with returning, etc. I asked about cutting and welding a new end. He advised against it if option A works out. I think he is worried about the uncertainties of cutting, reheating the rod end...hardness, metallurgical changes, etc. I did however this morning order a new weld on top link ball. I think I can resect the current weldment and leave a substantial portion of the base of it to weld to...not touching the rod. Overall length should be very near the same as it is. On the other hand...I like your idea of possibly shortening. I'll have to think about that some more.

Note: Please do not interpret from any of this that I am in any way "knocking" CCM. I think they are trying to perform an excellent service under less than ideal circumstances. I'm ok with everything at this point.