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[MadReferee]

That setup may be nice if you are facing forward but when sitting sideways looking back at what the implement is really doing I'll bet it's not very comfortable. Left hand on steering and right hand crossed back over the body in an awkward fashion. Ugh. No thanks. I prefer fender or ROPS mounts more towards the rear.

Also it kind of restricts movement out the right side and has hot hoses running the length of the fender. From an engineering standpoint, I think the design leaves a lot to be desired.

 

[PineRidge]

That setup may be nice if you are facing forward but when sitting sideways looking back at what the implement is really doing I'll bet it's not very comfortable. Left hand on steering and right hand crossed back over the body in an awkward fashion. Ugh. No thanks. I prefer fender or ROPS mounts more towards the rear.

Also it kind of restricts movement out the right side and has hot hoses running the length of the fender. From an engineering standpoint, I think the design leaves a lot to be desired.

Come on Mad his design isn't that bad.

That's definitely not the side of Mad that I'm used to seeing around here.....

 

[JerryG]

That setup may be nice if you are facing forward but when sitting sideways looking back at what the implement is really doing I'll bet it's not very comfortable. Left hand on steering and right hand crossed back over the body in an awkward fashion. Ugh. No thanks. I prefer fender or ROPS mounts more towards the rear.

Also it kind of restricts movement out the right side and has hot hoses running the length of the fender. From an engineering standpoint, I think the design leaves a lot to be desired.

I have always thought that it looked like a nice setup. It is very sturdy and I like the cover as well as the way it is attached to the ROPS. Having said that Mad is right about it not being conducive to rear work as it is shown. The add said it was adjustable to the owner. Does anyone know if it is adjustable beyond sliding it up and down on the ROPS? or is that the only way that it can be adjusted?

 

[MadReferee]

Come on Mad his design isn't that bad.

That's definitely not the side of Mad that I'm used to seeing around here.....

It's my engineering background. I just pointed out an obvious flaw or two that I saw from my perspective. Based on how I use a rear remote setup for TNT, I firmly believe that their design is lacking. Go sit on your tractor and turn sideways to watch the implement and imagine taking yur right hand and moving the spool levers when they are located potentially in front of your TC's fender joystick. Jerry has it right, awkward at best. That equals a poor design in my book. Just calling it as I see it.

 

[ovrszd]

It's my engineering background. I just pointed out an obvious flaw or two that I saw from my perspective. Based on how I use a rear remote setup for TNT, I firmly believe that their design is lacking. Go sit on your tractor and turn sideways to watch the implement and imagine taking yur right hand and moving the spool levers when they are located potentially in front of your TC's fender joystick. Jerry has it right, awkward at best. That equals a poor design in my book. Just calling it as I see it.

Okay, I know this thread is running long but I've been wanting to ask opinions about this idea. Forgive my improper use of names. How about a rocker switch added to the 3pt lift lever to control the adjustable top link thru an electric over hydraulic valve???

Or,,,, how about two rocker switches flush mounted into the top of the fender just behind the 3pt lift lever to run both rear remotes???? I'm working with a B2910 which has a perfect flat spot on the fender top to do this???

 

[MadReferee]

Okay, I know this thread is running long but I've been wanting to ask opinions about this idea. Forgive my improper use of names. How about a rocker switch added to the 3pt lift lever to control the adjustable top link thru an electric over hydraulic valve???

Or,,,, how about two rocker switches flush mounted into the top of the fender just behind the 3pt lift lever to run both rear remotes???? I'm working with a B2910 which has a perfect flat spot on the fender top to do this???

What type of valve are you intending to use for a remote? You still need to have some type of valve in series with the loader and between the loader and 3pt. You can use an electric/hydraulic full spool(s) or a fully hydraulic valve. Or you can use an electric diverter that diverts the loader spool functions.

Since you have a B2910 that already has the rear aux hydraulic block, I would opt for a separate valve setup be it electric/hydraulic or pure hydraulic. There is a cost issue involved here as the electric/hydraulic could end up costing as much as twice what a Prince SV would cost.

BTW, I chose the Prince SV mounted on the fender next to the ROPS.

 

[Glenn9643]

Okay, I know this thread is running long but I've been wanting to ask opinions about this idea. Forgive my improper use of names. How about a rocker switch added to the 3pt lift lever to control the adjustable top link thru an electric over hydraulic valve???

Or,,,, how about two rocker switches flush mounted into the top of the fender just behind the 3pt lift lever to run both rear remotes???? I'm working with a B2910 which has a perfect flat spot on the fender top to do this???

My remotes are controlled by a "joystick" mounted on the right fender just behind the seat. "Front to back" controls the top link and "side to side" controls the tilt. When I turn and look over my right shoulder at the implement I have access to the valve.

 

[ovrszd]

What type of valve are you intending to use for a remote? You still need to have some type of valve in series with the loader and between the loader and 3pt. You can use an electric/hydraulic full spool(s) or a fully hydraulic valve. Or you can use an electric diverter that diverts the loader spool functions.

Since you have a B2910 that already has the rear aux hydraulic block, I would opt for a separate valve setup be it electric/hydraulic or pure hydraulic. There is a cost issue involved here as the electric/hydraulic could end up costing as much as twice what a Prince SV would cost.

BTW, I chose the Prince SV mounted on the fender next to the ROPS.

I figured cost would creep into this equation and might change my mind. But I'm a cosmetic person and just like the idea of using HR Long electric/hydraulic valves mounted somewhere out of the way with QD couplers mounted to a bracket on the rear of the tractor and rocker/toggle switches mounted somewhere on the top of the fender that is accessible. Would eliminate the bulky valve on the fender and the nest of hoses associated with that.

So whether these are used or not would probably come down to a cost factor?? Twice the cost of Prince valves would certainly sway cosmetic preferences. Otherwise, plumbing and end functioning result would be similar? Gains would be versatility of mounting location for the valves and control mechanisms?

Just looks good in my mind to have the switches mounted on the 3pt lift lever which you would have ahold of anyway if operating the tip n tilt. I'll research the cost difference. Thanks Mad!!!

 

[MadReferee]

The WR Long electric/hydraulic valve list price is $519 plus shipping. They only sell thru dealers so you have to find a dealer that sells their products. That price is for ONE spool. I bought mine for the grapple from the local JD dealer.

My 3 spool Prince SV setup cost less than $400 and it included the valve, hoses and fittings. I made the mounting plate. $400 vs $1500 is a real no brainer.

Also, the WR Long electric/hydraulic single spool valve has a rather large footprint (10"L x 3"W x 5"H) and they are not stackable like a Prince SV hydraulic valve. Their dimensions are typical of these types of valves. This means additional hoses, fittings, etc. A real nightmare to mount and plumb. I would have a hard time finding a suitable place to mount 2 of these on the rear of a Kubota B series. Your notion of having something small mounted out of the way on the back just ain't gonna fly.

 

[ovrszd]

The WR Long electric/hydraulic valve list price is $519 plus shipping. They only sell thru dealers so you have to find a dealer that sells their products. That price is for ONE spool. I bought mine for the grapple from the local JD dealer.

My 3 spool Prince SV setup cost less than $400 and it included the valve, hoses and fittings. I made the mounting plate. $400 vs $1500 is a real no brainer.

Also, the WR Long electric/hydraulic single spool valve has a rather large footprint (10"L x 3"W x 5"H) and they are not stackable like a Prince SV hydraulic valve. Their dimensions are typical of these types of valves. This means additional hoses, fittings, etc. A real nightmare to mount and plumb. I would have a hard time finding a suitable place to mount 2 of these on the rear of a Kubota B series. Your notion of having something small mounted out of the way on the back just ain't gonna fly.

Yep, I see your logic. The price alone is a deciding factor. Thanks for your expert advice as always Mad!!!!