Hydraulic Chatter Deere 5083e

[J_J]

Have you considered taking it to a hyd shop for testing? They can tell you the volume and pressure the pump is capable of producing.

Have you put a hyd gage in the system and checked the pressure.

Although the cyl will self bleed, if you hae a suction leak, you are adding air every time the pump is running.

Does the fluid in the tank have bubbles in it, and do they go away over time.

If the fluid is clear, start the tractor and monitor the tank for any new bubbles. If there is a suction leak, you should see them appear. A flash light will help some.

What did the filter screen look like? Small metal flakes indicates some wear is going on, but did they come from the pump?

 

[AGGIE00]

Have you considered taking it to a hyd shop for testing? They can tell you the volume and pressure the pump is capable of producing.

Have you put a hyd gage in the system and checked the pressure.

Although the cyl will self bleed, if you hae a suction leak, you are adding air every time the pump is running.

Does the fluid in the tank have bubbles in it, and do they go away over time.

If the fluid is clear, start the tractor and monitor the tank for any new bubbles. If there is a suction leak, you should see them appear. A flash light will help some.

What did the filter screen look like? Small metal flakes indicates some wear is going on, but did they come from the pump?

It can't be a leak between the pump and tank, since no damage was ever done there. The broken line is on the pressure side of the pump, which almost all the plumbing is. As far as tank goes, the transmission acts as the reservoir and there is no way to look in there. I haven't pulled the screen yet, but plan to when I get home from work.

Now that I suppose I need to buy a pump, my wheels are turning as to whether or not I can put on a larger pump. The M-series has quite a bit more hydraulic flow and that would be nice. That is assuming the pump on the M-series is mounted in the same location and way my current one is.

 

[oldnslo]

It can't be a leak between the pump and tank, since no damage was ever done there. The broken line is on the pressure side of the pump, which almost all the plumbing is. As far as tank goes, the transmission acts as the reservoir and there is no way to look in there. I haven't pulled the screen yet, but plan to when I get home from work.

Now that I suppose I need to buy a pump, my wheels are turning as to whether or not I can put on a larger pump. The M-series has quite a bit more hydraulic flow and that would be nice. That is assuming the pump on the M-series is mounted in the same location and way my current one is.

In looking at the parts breakdown it appears that these are simple gear pumps so I wouldn't condemn them just yet.

I agree with JJ that you should perform some diagnostic tests or have them performed to isolate your problem.

Not sure what your capabilities are but at a minimum you need to have a flow Vs pressure test on the pumps. This test needs to be performed by removing the pressure line to your SCV, (the line that was replaced) and replacing that with a flow and pressure kit. This will provide you with information on what your pump is doing Vs valves down stream.

As far as going with larger pumps, will the rest of the system components handle higher flow?

Roy

 

[AGGIE00]

It doesn't explain the sluggish hydraulics, but I figured out the vibration noise. A week ago when I straightened out the remaining lines and put the new clip on, I must have made two of the metal lines touch. Pulled them apart a little bit and the noise is gone. Now to remove the screen. Wish I didn't have to lose all the high dollar fluid doing so.

 

[cowski]

aim it down hill and you will not lose as much.

 

[AGGIE00]

aim it down hill and you will not lose as much.

Good idea.

 

[J_J]

Why not drain it into a clean bucket, and if it looks good, reuse it.

You still have not provided any pressure readings yet, and if you install a hyd gage, watch the gage when you hear the chatter, and other operations of the hyd system.

If you remove your pump a good hyd shop can test it for you for around $50. If th pump test good, then I would remove the relief valves from the FEL and inspect, clean, reset the relief pressure.

 

[temsan]

I'll try them.
thanks.

 

[J_J]

This guy temsan has a web site,dealing in hyd's, but is a foreign language, maybe Turkish.

 

[robertmburke]

I have a 2011 5083 with large loader, and 595 JD backhoe with 60 some hours on it now, I have owned it for 3 months, and it has spent 5+ weeks in the shop due to hydraulic issues. JD replaced every major component and it still has issues, hydrualic fluid is white because of the foam, growling when it gets warm. Initially it seemed as if they had identified and corrected by putting an anit-cavitation device on it.
We identified the problem the day it was delivered, dealer said it was probably air, run it. I continued to complain and they sent someone out to look at it, he agreed that the backhoe was not running correctly and he heard the growling. This is all before the 5 weeks in shop and parts swapping.
I have had it back for about 2 weeks and noticed an issue again, dealer came out yesterday and said it was 3 gallons low on fluid, but not sure where it went since we have not seen any major leaks. They filled it and the hydraulic fluid is still foamy and it still growls when it gets warm.
JD Corp has indicated verbally to dealer that they will cover 2 months payments and extend warrenty by 6 months. That is great, but machine is still not running right