Hydraulic controlled bucket QA?
- Thread starter CDN Farm Boy
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OP
CDN Farm Boy
Veteran Member
No, not THAT bad.....just haven't been on the computer for a couple days trying to get shiat done around the house before winter.
A bit of all of the ideas together has gotten me to this:
Top drawing is retracted
Bottom drawing is extended
Red is the cyl body
Blue is the pins
Black is either the rod of the cyl or the main tube that the pins would ride in
Green is a tab attaching between the pins and the cyl that would run in a slot in the main tube
10" stroke cyl providing 5" movement on each pin
Main body would be 24 3/4" long
Pins would be 12" each leaving 3/4" between at full retraction for crud buildup
To keep things as compact as possible and to lessen the leverage forces on the tabs, green tab would be welded to both the pin and the side of the body of the cyl
At the rod end of the cyl, there would be a bolt connecting between the green tab and the rod
Design would be fully greaseable
Small hurdle to overcome: crud getting between the 2 pins especially since the slots would be on top for best location of cyl for protection
A bit of all of the ideas together has gotten me to this:
Top drawing is retracted
Bottom drawing is extended
Red is the cyl body
Blue is the pins
Black is either the rod of the cyl or the main tube that the pins would ride in
Green is a tab attaching between the pins and the cyl that would run in a slot in the main tube
10" stroke cyl providing 5" movement on each pin
Main body would be 24 3/4" long
Pins would be 12" each leaving 3/4" between at full retraction for crud buildup
To keep things as compact as possible and to lessen the leverage forces on the tabs, green tab would be welded to both the pin and the side of the body of the cyl
At the rod end of the cyl, there would be a bolt connecting between the green tab and the rod
Design would be fully greaseable
Small hurdle to overcome: crud getting between the 2 pins especially since the slots would be on top for best location of cyl for protection
aczlan
Good Morning
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I like it. For crud between the cylinders, what if you put a 1/4" hole all the way through in the middle and put either a 1/4" cotter pin or 1/4" bolt in there? Cotter pin should allow dirt to drop out, the bolt would keep it sealed, but let you remove it and blow out the space with compressed air.
If you wanted to seal the opening, you could put a pair of flex seals or door sweeps such as Amazon.com: CRL Clear "T" Type Shower Door Bottom Seal and Wipe - 36 in long: Explore similar items or M-D Building Products 69644 2-1/4-Inch by 36-Inch DB038 Heavy Duty Door Sweep with Vinyl Seal, White - Amazon.com
Aaron Z
If you wanted to seal the opening, you could put a pair of flex seals or door sweeps such as Amazon.com: CRL Clear "T" Type Shower Door Bottom Seal and Wipe - 36 in long: Explore similar items or M-D Building Products 69644 2-1/4-Inch by 36-Inch DB038 Heavy Duty Door Sweep with Vinyl Seal, White - Amazon.com
Aaron Z
Tul01
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Just a thought because I have been batting around ideas for our JD, what if your cylinder was in line and floating with your pins. Both pins with stops on them so that it didnt matter which pin pulled out first, when it reached its stop it would pull the other pin. Same with going out, when one pin was seated it would push the other one in? Use a 10" stroke cylinder and make the pins to match the left over distance?
Brent
Brent
Xfaxman
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Sounds to me like that would work. The stop collar on the pins is the key item that would make it work.
OP
CDN Farm Boy
Veteran Member
Thanks for the input but the option wasn't explored further for me after Steve mentioning it as there just isn't enough room in my application. With Steve's 580, that would likely work well and inexpensive. I simply don't have room for pin guides with that setup. That I why I tried the off-set design which is allowing for the pins to ride over 50% in guides all the time and using all but 1/4" on each end of my main tube as stops/retainers. Even at that, a 10" travel cyl with collapsed length of 14 1/4" is going to take some custom mods to do.
Tul01
Gold Member
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Brent, Xfaxman, please see post #2 on the first page (great minds, same track, yada yada) Steve
Ha now I read that totally different. Too funny. Cud I go with great minds?
Brent
BukitCase
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Sure, but you'll hafta settle for either secretary or treasurer of the club - the "gooder" jobs are already taken :laughing:
CDN Farm Boy is right - I've got just a hair under 32" between bucket mounts on the old Case, so If I get even lazier (quite possible :=) I'd have plenty of room for a couple of the ideas in this thread.
But first I gotta finish a few overdue maintenance/repair items and add a couple solenoid selectors to the front hydraulics, + a manual selector/flow control tied into the hoe hydraulics, then I'll be able to build my "mil-spec erector set" that will articulate the Samurai sickle bar cutter on either the FEL or the hoe.
Got my new 6x8x2' deep brush bucket done, also a set of brush forks (6' wide, just under 5' long, 9" spacing) to load it with, so when I'm done I'll be able to trim my couple hundred feet of hedges and have most of it fall into the bucket as it's cut, then just drive to the burn pile and dump. Picture a full-size pickup bed on the end of an industrial-strength loader.
Got more, but plan on waiting til the whole "system" is done then I'll start a new thread with lotsa pix.
It's nice to have a lift capacity around 2 tons, I've already added almost as much weight to my front bucket as the smaller Kubotas can lift - gotta admit tho, there are times it'd be nice to squeeze into an area a bit smaller than 9' x 30" ...Steve
CDN Farm Boy is right - I've got just a hair under 32" between bucket mounts on the old Case, so If I get even lazier (quite possible :=) I'd have plenty of room for a couple of the ideas in this thread.
But first I gotta finish a few overdue maintenance/repair items and add a couple solenoid selectors to the front hydraulics, + a manual selector/flow control tied into the hoe hydraulics, then I'll be able to build my "mil-spec erector set" that will articulate the Samurai sickle bar cutter on either the FEL or the hoe.
Got my new 6x8x2' deep brush bucket done, also a set of brush forks (6' wide, just under 5' long, 9" spacing) to load it with, so when I'm done I'll be able to trim my couple hundred feet of hedges and have most of it fall into the bucket as it's cut, then just drive to the burn pile and dump. Picture a full-size pickup bed on the end of an industrial-strength loader.
Got more, but plan on waiting til the whole "system" is done then I'll start a new thread with lotsa pix.
It's nice to have a lift capacity around 2 tons, I've already added almost as much weight to my front bucket as the smaller Kubotas can lift - gotta admit tho, there are times it'd be nice to squeeze into an area a bit smaller than 9' x 30"
...Steve