Hydraulic coupler compatibility?

[Rich_Z]

I just got in an implement for my FEL to mate up with my 3rd function, which is (from what I can figure out) a poppet style coupler set.

What I got on the implement is some sort of round ball instead of that tapered raised center. I sent the above pic to the place I bought it from, so they knew what I have. Been wet behind the ears with this hydraulic stuff, I have no idea if the two types of couplers are going to be compatible together. Yeah, I know I could just try it, but I don't like experimenting with things like this. Not to mention that the implement is still in the back of the pickup truck.

So will they work together or do I need to buy exactly compatible couplers and switch out those round ball ones?

 

[ericm979]

https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/qd_sizechart.pdf

The ISO 5675 AG couplers come in both ball and poppet types. Mine interchange but some folks here have reported them not working together. Try it and see.

 

[Rich_Z]

Oh hell..... So there are two different styles of the poppet couplers? Is one more likely than the other to be on my TYM T474 tractor?

 

[ericm979]

You very likely have AG couplers on the tractor. The ones in the pic are shown front on instead of in profile but they are probably AG couplers too. If they're the right size and also AG couplers, try them. They probably work. The ball and poppet types of ISO 5675 are supposed to interoperate. Mine do.

 

[Tx Jim]

Poppet type coupler is designed to be higher flow(GPM's) than ball type but most will interchange when connecting.

 

[LD1]

Three "types" of couplers that all look similar

ISO 5675 (AG)
ISO 7241 series A
ISO 7241 series B

NONE of them are interchangeable yet all look similar. Ball vs Poppet are usually interchangable as long as the couplers are the same series.

There are also different sizes.

Its not "experimenting" to see if they will plug into one another. And taking a picture of the SIDE of both male couplers would help us identify them (if there is no writing on any of them). Front pics show nothing

 

[ruffdog]

Size chart:

How to determine size

 

[5030]

What you have are Pioneer style not release under pressure couplers. The Pioneer ball end couplers are release under pressure and they are all available at any tractor dealer and Tractor Supply as well and because Pioneer's patent ran out, everyone sells them and brand is not important so long as they will couple without leaking and retail sellers also sell rebuild kits for the internal seals and 'O' rings. Just have to be careful when renewing the 'O' rings as they have to precisely fit in the machined in recesses in the male fittings and in the females and they will all leak a bit when you couple them up but the hydraulic fluid is 'hydroscopic' so it washes off when (and if) you wash the tractor.

 

[Rich_Z]

Well today I finally got around to putting the Notch Tree & Post Puller (the aforementioned "implement") onto the FEL. I was able to get the couplers that came on the hoses on the Notch to connect to the couplers on the 3rd function on the tractor, but that female coupler (on the Notch side) was a real SOB to get connected up. Had a friend come over who had more meat on his bones, thinking maybe I have just gotten to old and feeble for the job. But he had no better luck than I did. I actually pulled off the male side on the tractor in case my flicking that 3rd function buttons wasn't releasing the pressure. All to no avail. We tried every which way from Sunday to get them to hook up. Now we knew they SHOULD connect, because when I took that male coupler off the tractor I was able to get it into the female coupler on the Notch. Wouldn't really call it "easy" but it DID hook up. Honestly, I think the spring on that female coupler is just a tad on the stiff side, as once hydraulic fluid got onto it, it was darn difficult to pull it back all of the way.

So how did I finally get it connected? Well, I knew I could take the loose male coupler from the tractor side and get it connected to the female side on the Notch, so what I did was to connect the loose male coupler into that female hose coupler and THEN screwed the male coupler back onto the hydraulic line on the tractor. That was the ONLY way we could get it connected.

I am thinking I may replace that female coupler on the hose from the Notch. Otherwise I am going to be extremely reluctant to disconnect that Notch tree puller from my tractor, EVER because of it being such a pain in the butt to hook it back up again. I might as well cancel my order for the grapple, because I would never use it. So I have to do something to make that "quick connect" hydraulic hose setup, well, QUICK, and certainly EASIER. Or at least manageable. Otherwise I might as well just weld those couplers together.

In any event, there were no hydraulic leaks after all the cussing and elbow banging on the FEL, and the jaw seemed to work like it should.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Well today I finally got around to putting the Notch Tree & Post Puller (the aforementioned "implement") onto the FEL. I was able to get the couplers that came on the hoses on the Notch to connect to the couplers on the 3rd function on the tractor, but that female coupler (on the Notch side) was a real SOB to get connected up. Had a friend come over who had more meat on his bones, thinking maybe I have just gotten to old and feeble for the job. But he had no better luck than I did. I actually pulled off the male side on the tractor in case my flicking that 3rd function buttons wasn't releasing the pressure. All to no avail. We tried every which way from Sunday to get them to hook up. Now we knew they SHOULD connect, because when I took that male coupler off the tractor I was able to get it into the female coupler on the Notch. Wouldn't really call it "easy" but it DID hook up. Honestly, I think the spring on that female coupler is just a tad on the stiff side, as once hydraulic fluid got onto it, it was darn difficult to pull it back all of the way.

So how did I finally get it connected? Well, I knew I could take the loose male coupler from the tractor side and get it connected to the female side on the Notch, so what I did was to connect the loose male coupler into that female hose coupler and THEN screwed the male coupler back onto the hydraulic line on the tractor. That was the ONLY way we could get it connected.

I am thinking I may replace that female coupler on the hose from the Notch. Otherwise I am going to be extremely reluctant to disconnect that Notch tree puller from my tractor, EVER because of it being such a pain in the butt to hook it back up again. I might as well cancel my order for the grapple, because I would never use it. So I have to do something to make that "quick connect" hydraulic hose setup, well, QUICK, and certainly EASIER. Or at least manageable. Otherwise I might as well just weld those couplers together.

In any event, there were no hydraulic leaks after all the cussing and elbow banging on the FEL, and the jaw seemed to work like it should.

See post #6 in this thread:

Detaching hoses in the warm

Occasionally a question comes up "how do I take this hydraulic coupling apart it's stuck!" and almost invariably it's because the temperature was cooler when it was coupled and due to the increase of temperature, fluid pressure inside the hoses has increased to the point that you can't undo the...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[ericm979]

It does not take much of a temperature change from when the implement was last disconnected to make it difficult to connect. If I take the grapple off and set it in the sun to use the bucket for an hour, the grapple connectors won't want to connect when I put it back on. Hydraulic fluid expands when it warms up.

I made a couple devices which are hydraulic tees with connectors on two ends and a valve on the third end. I plug that in to the grapple when I take it off and let the pressure out when I want to hook it up again.

Or you can get one of the devices made to depressurize hydraulics by forcing a quick connect open.

Even without the pressure problem, some connectors are easier to get connected than others. When I extended my third function up to the loader to run the grapple I used all the same connectors for maximum compatibility.

But I expect your problem was pressure in the implement. And yes usually it affects one connector more than the other.

 

[5030]

What I do (and I couple and uncouple a ton of connectors as all my hay tools take multiple hydraulic hook ups is... I shut off the tractor so the hydraulic are inoperative (no pressure on the couplers at all), then I cycle the hydraulic actuator lever full off and full on (and that relieves any and all pressure in the female fitting on the tractor) and then I couple them, Note it still takes some inserting pressure to couple them because you have to overcome the spring pressure on the internal poppet valve, but they will couple then. Removing is the opposite but you still have to pull on them a bit to get them to release because the internal soring is holding the poppet against the one in the male and that is by design to eliminate any pressure leaks.

The release under pressure design of the Pioneer couplers allows them to overcome hydraulic pressure if the implement becomes detached and that keeps the hoses from getting ripped off. and destroyed. it's a safety feature and will save your butt (in the back side of the tractor if you forget to disconnect them.)

You can and will build up pressure in the implement hose sometimes (I do occasionally) and what I do is I have a helper hold the pressurized fitting (usually my wife..lol) horizontally and I whack the end with a brass hammer and that allows the pressurized oil to squirt out (just point it away from your face or clothes) and once the pressure is relieved it will couple fine. You don't need any special (costly tool) either. Just a small brass hammer (so you don't damage the end of the poppet) and that is it.

Because I'm always connecting and disconnecting multiple hookups (I have 3 sets of remotes plus flow control on the back of both my tractors plus a front set), I always have at least a spare gallon of hydraulic fluid in the shop, to top off the gearcase when it drops below full, which it does because no matter how carefully you hook up, you will ALWAYS loose a bit of fluid and like I stated previously, it's hydroscopic so it washes off with water and detergent when you wash your unit.

Have fun...

 

[Rich_Z]

And taking a picture of the SIDE of both male couplers would help us identify them (if there is no writing on any of them). Front pics show nothing

Okey dokey, here you go.....

 

[goeduck]

I have AG couplers; some are ball, and some are poppet. They are all the same series. They all work interchangeably, poppet gives better flow if that matters (driving a hydraulic motor, etc.). They all leak if that is an issue.

 

[LD1]

Okey dokey, here you go.....

View attachment 824106

Ag or series A....

Where is the pic of the other male coupler?

 

[Rich_Z]

Ag or series A....

Where is the pic of the other male coupler?

What other male coupler? The one on the Notch tree puller? The male coupler on the hose from the Notch connected easily to the female coupler of the tractor. It was the female coupler on the hose from the Notch that was a real SOB to hook up to the male coupler on the tractor! Quite honestly, I am not going to disconnect them until I have a real good reason to do so.

 

[2manyrocks]

Makes me wonder if that one coupler could be bad?

You could buy a matched set of couplers and see if it clears up the problem.

Maybe worth mentioning that it's important to clean them when they aren't pressurized before disconnecting or connecting to avoid getting dirt in the system.

 

[5030]

Makes me wonder if that one coupler could be bad?

You could buy a matched set of couplers and see if it clears up the problem.

Maybe worth mentioning that it's important to clean them when they aren't pressurized before disconnecting or connecting to avoid getting dirt in the system.

Always give mine a shot of PBlaster inside prior to coupling to get the crud out. I don't use the push in covers at all. I use the spring loaded covers my Kubota dealer has. Positive closure 100% of the time.

 

[ericm979]

Makes me wonder if that one coupler could be bad?

You could buy a matched set of couplers and see if it clears up the problem.

I'll second that. They're relatively inexpensive and easy to change.

Maybe worth mentioning that it's important to clean them when they aren't pressurized before disconnecting or connecting to avoid getting dirt in the system.

Pick up some caps when you're buying new couplers if you don't already have them.

I like the Pioneer 4250 which had a sleeve that unlocks with a pull or a push instead of only pulling it down. That makes connecting the couplers easier because you can just hold the loose female coupler by the sleeve and shove the male coupler in. They cost a little more than the one way sleeve type but to me the convenience is worth it.

I often connect the male and female couplers on attachments when I remove the attachment but that does not prevent the couplers from locking up when the pressure in the implement rises.

 

[LD1]

What other male coupler? The one on the Notch tree puller? The male coupler on the hose from the Notch connected easily to the female coupler of the tractor. It was the female coupler on the hose from the Notch that was a real SOB to hook up to the male coupler on the tractor! Quite honestly, I am not going to disconnect them until I have a real good reason to do so.

Yes, it would be handy to see both males.....and or any writing or numbers on the couplings.

Because the male/female pair on the tractor are most likely the same series.

As are the ones on the tree puller.

But is the pair on the tractor, and the pair on the puller both the same series? And the only way to know is either the writing.....or examining the couplings closely. And since you cannot see down inside the female very well, especially via picture over the internet.....a picture of the two male halves side by side would be helpful.

There are "some" ISO 5675 and 7241-A that "can" interchange. As some have reported compatibility. Though its not a good Idea to mix/match series of couplers.

So in your case....I was wondering if you had a 5675 on the tractor and a 7241-A on the puller. Which could explain why the male of one couples to the female of the other but not vice versa.

In otherwords.....a MALE 5675 my indeed hook into a female 7241-A......but the male 7241-A may NOT hook into the female 5675. Because the make 7241-A had some extra notches down at the base of the coupler

See the picture. Hence why I was wanting to see the other male fitting