Hydraulic Cylinder Repair

[wdchyd]

Some good info here.... ( https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/409590-cracked-hydraulic-cylinder-barrel.html )

Bear in mind brazing with bronze or silver solder will make it more difficult if you decide to tig weld it after. Tig welding is a better permanent solution if you have the capabilities. Replacing the tubing and reinforcing when the cyl is apart is the preferred method IMHO.

 

[granitepeak]

I spoke with a couple of hydraulic shops. It seems all the repair routes are reasonable. I am taking the route that leaves me more in control and is quickest, which is to cut out a section of the hard tubing. I will install compression fittings on the remaining stubs and connect hose to the fittings.

Thank you all for your suggestions.
Don

 

[granitepeak]

Some good info here.... ( https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/409590-cracked-hydraulic-cylinder-barrel.html )

Bear in mind brazing with bronze or silver solder will make it more difficult if you decide to tig weld it after. Tig welding is a better permanent solution if you have the capabilities. Replacing the tubing and reinforcing when the cyl is apart is the preferred method IMHO.

Picture attached

I would prefer to do it right. Is the part that is on the body that the feeder tube(finally know what it is called - thanks) goes into removable? What secures it from the inside? Is the feeder tube pressed into that end or is some type of welding method holding it? The thought came to me that the feeder tube might blow out under pressure if a hose becomes a 2 foot bridge in the feeder tube. If that is the case then the quick fix would be a new feeder tube cut in half and use a compression fitting. Time and to some degree so is $$. Just spent a lot replacing all the 24 hoses and fittings on both ends of the hoses, so I would like to wait until winter.

Thanks,
Don

 

[wdchyd]

Don, can you send a pic of the other end of that tubing. It looks like the type that is slid in from the other side and captured by a fitting from the other side. If so then it has an oring seal machined in the tube (sometimes a piece premachined silver soldered on the end with groove)

 

[wdchyd]

Looking at pic in post #3 I’d say it is captured by the fitting. The utmost care must be used to remove it cuz the old tube could scratch the housing near the base plate when it gets slid out. Sometimes it’s best to Just cut out a section, it’s ng anyways.

 

[granitepeak]

Don, can you send a pic of the other end of that tubing. It looks like the type that is slid in from the other side and captured by a fitting from the other side. If so then it has an oring seal machined in the tube (sometimes a piece premachined silver soldered on the end with groove)

 

[wdchyd]

Is there a plug underneath? Parallel to the tubing?

Looking closer at pic i don’t see a plug, it may be just brazed or silver soldered in.

 

[granitepeak]

I do not know what a plug is.

From the casting where the hose connects until the part that goes into the upper side of the body, there is +/- 1/8" gap the whole distance.

 

[granitepeak]

 

[wdchyd]

It would’ve been here ......if there was one. You may be better off trying your compression fittings cuz to only other way would be to remove the elbow on the rod end and weld it back together.