Hydraulic fluid foaming?

[VictorW]

I check my CK30hst with the loader full up, the bucket curled full down, and the 3pt full up. I make sure it's at the upper mark on the stick when cold. After working the tractor and everything is good and warmed, the oil will be just above the upper mark with some small bubbles but no foam. You might have picked up some moisture in the oil. Winter work is good for building condensation. At 800 hours and the next change cycle, those 400 hours might have picked up enough moisture to make it foam but not turn milky which is what usually happens.
If your sucking air in somewhere, it's probably very minute and will be a PITA to find. I'd do your service and then see what happens. Hopefully all will be fine.

 

[Lloyd_E]

This has me wondering too.

I have been moving a lot of manure and a lot of gravel. Just finishing a 2400' driveway with about 24 yards. I noticed today that the loader had trouble lifting a load of gravel - after I drove bucket into the pile. Reeved engine a bit to get it to lift. I also checked fluids last week - everything is clear and full but I did notice fluid is foamy or slightly white after use.

I need to do some back hoe work tomorrow. I will check when cold and when warm.

Anything else I should look for? I park the tractor in the same spot and there is no residue
from leaking fluid on the ground.

Thanks....

Lloyd

PS: tractor has 285 hours - just had an engine oil and fuel filter service last week plus a general look over by dealer.

 

[J_J]

If that fluid looks pale white, it probably has water in it, and needs changing.

 

[IslandTractor]

If that fluid looks pale white, it probably has water in it, and needs changing.

JJ, does the "white" only occur when water contaminated fluid is warm or would it appear that color when cooled off?

 

[J_J]

JJ, does the "white" only occur when water contaminated fluid is warm or would it appear that color when cooled off?

With all the fluids out there, I am not sure, but I am sure that when water is emulsified with hyd or oil, it has that blended off white/beige color. It is expensive to renew that fluid, so best thing is to replace.

 

[KevinMcD]

Don't want to stray off topic but what is the correct procedure to check the hydro oil on my CK30 HST? Tractor off or running, engine cold or warm, position of implements? I have a backhoe (runs off main pump) so what should the position of the boom and dipperstick be?
Thanks,
Kevin McD

 

[IslandTractor]

Don't want to stray off topic but what is the correct procedure to check the hydro oil on my CK30 HST? Tractor off or running, engine cold or warm, position of implements? I have a backhoe (runs off main pump) so what should the position of the boom and dipperstick be?
Thanks,
Kevin McD

I'm not sure there is an official way but I generally test it with loader down, 3pt implement on the ground, engine started and tractor moved just about 40ft or so then engine shut off for oil check and HST check and greasing operations. To move the tractor I obviously also raise then lower the FEL and 3pt. For me this is simply practical as I keep the tractor in a barn and as the space is confined, I start it up, move it outside then shut down and do all the checks. I think the main point is consistency.

There is an issue at least with the CKs where sometimes you can get misleading low HST readings if you check it cold before starting the engine after you put it away hot the night before. I am not sure if that is a general issue or not but a number of us have had that experience so I just always check after some minor movements etc to get the juices flowing normally.

 

[Highbeam]

See I always thought you were supposed to check it with the engine running and warm. Ugh. Engine running seems logical to me since the sump level is most important while all of the pumps are sucking.

Well I checked my vent, clear, and then checked the fluid level after some minor grading work at the house. The fluid level is actually high by about half of the range between empty and full. The fluid level only moved slightly between having the implements fully extended and having them retracted so I don't think that the position matters too much.

I believe that I am overfilled and I am beginning to think that it might be water. The bubbles were tiny and present the entire wet length of the disptick.

 

[J_J]

Take some fluid from the reservoir, and compare it to new fluid. Should tell you what you need to know. The longer you keep water emulsified fluid in the tractor, the worst things will be. Rusty parts, acids forming, sluggish operation.

 

[IslandTractor]

I believe that I am overfilled and I am beginning to think that it might be water. The bubbles were tiny and present the entire wet length of the disptick.

That is exactly what mine looked like after I checked with engine hot following 2 hrs of mowing. The next morning the bubbles were gone. I say bubbles but it was really microscopic bubbles and the fluid just looked foamy tan as I recall. Normal color in the AM. No water issue in my case.

Has this continued to happen? If so, why not drain out a quart or two of fluid and then run the tractor to see if that fixes the problem.