Rake Hydraulic Harley Rake moving too slowly

[Charlesaf3]

Thanks, I was thinking of making a hose to check things out off a rear remote.

Ordering a gauge from Burden right now, though it'll be a few days before I have it. Seems like a useful thing to have in any case.

If there was too much resistance in the line to the solenoid, because of a loose connection (the wiring runs through a 3a light that came apart and I taped back together) would the solenoid only open part way? Does that make any sense?

Tractor is generally working fine, so my operating hypothesis is that I have a flow restriction in the front remote line.

Do Quick connects ever get partially blocked? Seems odd, as there is flow, and once again things should either work or not work I'd guess...

 

[J_J]

Yes, QD's can fail. The ball or poppets push against each other, to establish a flow path. If the springs behind the balls/poppet's are not equal, the stronger spring, along with the pressure will try and hold the ball closed. If there is some trash in the QD, the ball might not open all the way. One of your QD's might have a ball, and the mate might have a poppet. Should be the same for equal operation.

I don't understand about the voltage going to the solenoid is through a light. The 12v should be connected through a switch to the solenoid. If that light is wired in series with the solenoid, the light will try and limit current. Try bypassing the light, and connect directly. As a test, take two leads, and one lead to ground, and if the solenoid is grounded, touch the other wire to the batt 12v, and touch the solenoid input wire. The solenoid should fully open and you may hear a loud click, or feel it.

 

[Scooby074]

Any Resistance inline with your solenoid will cause a V drop. This can cause problems.

Check your hyd QC too. Maybe bypass them if possible for testing

 

[Charlesaf3]

Yes, QD's can fail. The ball or poppets push against each other, to establish a flow path. If the springs behind the balls/poppet's are not equal, the stronger spring, along with the pressure will try and hold the ball closed. If there is some trash in the QD, the ball might not open all the way. One of your QD's might have a ball, and the mate might have a poppet. Should be the same for equal operation.

I don't understand about the voltage going to the solenoid is through a light. The 12v should be connected through a switch to the solenoid. If that light is wired in series with the solenoid, the light will try and limit current. Try bypassing the light, and connect directly. As a test, take two leads, and one lead to ground, and if the solenoid is grounded, touch the other wire to the batt 12v, and touch the solenoid input wire. The solenoid should fully open and you may hear a loud click, or feel it.

So I guess I'll try switching out both QCs on the tractor side - one is female, one male.

The switch is wired through a light to the solenoid in series, so it acts a use indicator. I don't find it useful, but hey, not my design.

When I took apart the dashboard to fix the joystick I accidentally pulled the light apart. Though I taped it back together, (I had to wiggle it first to get the connection to work, so I'm sure its a poor one) I could well believe that there is still a problem there. What surprises me is that the problem is affecting the remotes - I sort of figured that it was binary, either it worked or not. Not so sure anymore

So could voltage drop cause a solenoid to only open partially? That would make sense in terms of whats happening. I hear the solenoid moving when I turn the electrics on, but motor is still off. The "click" seems weaker than before, but could be my imagination.

I have a really basic and spotty understanding of electronics - any downside to taking that light out of the circuit? Meaning does it need that resistance, or could I hurt something by pushing too much juice through the system otherwise?

 

[Charlesaf3]

Any Resistance inline with your solenoid will cause a V drop. This can cause problems.

Check your hyd QC too. Maybe bypass them if possible for testing

Is partial solenoid opening a conceivable problem from Voltage drop?

Or are solenoids either "open" or "closed" and there's nothing in the middle?

Clearly I should read up on solenoids a bit.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Charlesaf3]

Well, it wasn't the QCs - swapped them out and no chance.

Solenoid is definitely clicking when used. No idea if that means its open all the way...

Is there anything else it could be? Clogged hydro filter? Seems unlikely as they are only around 150 hours since last change.

The tractor does make a bit of a high pitched whine it didn't when new - I assumed that was normal, but now I'm hyperaware of everything that is a bit off.

 

[Builder]

So do the normal FEL functions seem strong? Do you have a grapple or 4/1 that is working OK that you can test?

The reason i ask is b/c I wonder if it's the rake, not the tractor?

 

[kennyd]

Is partial solenoid opening a conceivable problem from Voltage drop?

Or are solenoids either "open" or "closed" and there's nothing in the middle?

Clearly I should read up on solenoids a bit.

Thanks again for all the help!

Yes. there are two principles at work here...Voltage and Current.

Ever had a dead battery in your car where the radio and interior lights where on but when you went to start it everything went dead? The battery was supplying enough juice to operate the radio and light (very low draw) but when the starter (very high draw) engaged the battery could not keep up.


SO, you could have some juice flowing through that bad connection, but enough can't through to fully open the solenoid. You could test this theory but hooking a wire from the battery directly to the solenoid and see if you rake is back to normal.
-OR-
Since you already suspect that connection-fix it properly and see if that fixes everything.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So do the normal FEL functions seem strong? Do you have a grapple or 4/1 that is working OK that you can test?

The reason i ask is b/c I wonder if it's the rake, not the tractor?

I think that in post #9 he said that he had tried another rake and had the same problems. I think that it is on the tractor end.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Good questions, but it seems more or less normal other than low flow. I did try it with both a rockhound and a rake, same problem with both. I think the grapple and 4n1 would work fine, as they care less about flow and more about pressure

Taking a full bite out of a dirt pile with the big bucket (84") strained it, but I'd expect that