Hydraulic issues on a 2200
- Thread starter gatorgrabber
- Start date
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OP
gatorgrabber
Member
Yes, but thanks for the reminder! 
OP
gatorgrabber
Member
Well, I swapped the lines as suggested earlier and still have the same problem, so I'm thinking it's the cylinder(s). Are there any words-o-wisdom before removing them? Also, after checking we have the 3-bolt filter screen cover on the transaxle. 1danny, thanks for the photos! :thumbsup:
OP
gatorgrabber
Member
I stopped by the hydraulic house this morning and was quoted $150 each to rebuild the cylinders. This seems kind of pricey, but I've never done this before. Is there a good place to obtain the rebuild kits so I can do this myself? Thanks!
clemsonfor
Super Member
the same place will probly sell you the parts if you bring the cyl in so they can see what you need or if you take the parts to them they can get them for you.
OP
gatorgrabber
Member
I'm thinking they said $40 each. I'm searching for a DIY tutorial if anyone knows of one.
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 14,982
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
I had the local hydraulic shop do one of the curl cylinders on my loader. $165.
Then when my backhoe blew the end cap seal in its bucket-curl cylinder, the seal that the piston rod goes through, I took it apart myself. I carried in the piston and the end cap and they sold me the needed seals for under $20.
Some notes on dis-assembly:
Unscrew the end cap before dismounting anything. You need the tractor's mountings to resist twisting the cylinder.
My shop-repaired cylinder came back with ugly pipe wrench marks. They said they always use a pipe wrench unless they happen to have the right size spanner. So I used a giant pipe wrench (cheap at HF) to get my backhoe's cylinder apart. It needed a surprising amount of force. I kept the wrench near the seal end of the cap so I couldn't crush its other end. Later the threaded end of the cap will need to thread back onto the cylinder easily.
I re-mounted the piston on the backhoe, shielded by rags, to have something to twist against while taking the giant nut off the end of the piston.
You likely will need a gear puller to get the piston off the piston rod. (So you can replace the seal in the cylinder end cap).
I thought the whole process was simple and obvious. It simply required larger tools than I've used before.
And please post photos if you decide to do it yourself!
Then when my backhoe blew the end cap seal in its bucket-curl cylinder, the seal that the piston rod goes through, I took it apart myself. I carried in the piston and the end cap and they sold me the needed seals for under $20.
Some notes on dis-assembly:
Unscrew the end cap before dismounting anything. You need the tractor's mountings to resist twisting the cylinder.
My shop-repaired cylinder came back with ugly pipe wrench marks. They said they always use a pipe wrench unless they happen to have the right size spanner. So I used a giant pipe wrench (cheap at HF) to get my backhoe's cylinder apart. It needed a surprising amount of force. I kept the wrench near the seal end of the cap so I couldn't crush its other end. Later the threaded end of the cap will need to thread back onto the cylinder easily.
I re-mounted the piston on the backhoe, shielded by rags, to have something to twist against while taking the giant nut off the end of the piston.
You likely will need a gear puller to get the piston off the piston rod. (So you can replace the seal in the cylinder end cap).
I thought the whole process was simple and obvious. It simply required larger tools than I've used before.
And please post photos if you decide to do it yourself!
OP
gatorgrabber
Member
Thanks California, that's very helpful! I'm actually quite good with a wrench, but knowing what's lying-in-wait helps us do a better job. :thumbsup:
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