Hydraulic leak at loader controls fitting

[meringer]

I have an hydraulic leak at one of the supply line fittings to the loader control on a NH 2120. Assume it is a JIC 37 degree flare fitting. Is it reasonable to think that I can stop this leak without having to replace the entire line (because of the flared tubing end)? Has anyone had experience in working through something like this? Pictures attached. You can see which one (or two) are leaking by the oil coating on the line. I can't get to the fittings in question without removing the smaller lines that run to the loader. So there is a risk of having further leaking problems when I go to reassemble these 4 lines as well.

 

[5030]

Tighten it up...

 

[wdchyd]

Measure the OD of the tubing, they look like DIN fittings and metric tubing.
If tightening doesn’t work you will need to pull it apart and find tubing and matching fittings avail at the dealer or a good hyd shop.

 

[oldnslo]

Agree with wdchyd they do not look like 37 degree JIC.

 

[rScotty]

Tighten it up...

Any idea of what kind of wrench is going to get in there? Seems like a whole forest of fittings and I wouldn't want to remove them all.
And that makes me wonder why one would start leaking... I had a leak like that once, and thought I'd never find it. It turned out to be microscopic lengthwise split in the compression nut that didn't open up until it was torqued down.
rScotty

 

[meringer]

Thanks for the input everyone. Tube does appear to be metric. Measured OD at .5925" (15mm).
27mm line wrench is on order. Will try to tighten and let you know what I find out.

 

[wdchyd]

While yes, they only might be need to be tightened, but resist the urge to over tighten, I’ve seen known good DIN fittings removed, cleaned and they leaked after.

 

[wdchyd]

If DIN they will look like this.
Although this tubing is larger (22 x 3.0mm)

 

[meringer]

Thank you wdchyd. I share your concerns about over tightening. I believe that these fittings are meant to seal with with a specific number of turns. Not sure if that applies only to first install or also to re-install. Thanks also for the picture. Helps to verify type of connector. So am I correct that the DIN connection does not utilize a flared end on tube? If that is the case, and there is no damage to the tube, can I simply replace the nut and ferrules? Alternately, if there is damage to the tube, can I cut the tube and join a new short length of tube using a union connector instead of replacing the entire (custom bent) tube?

 

[WinterDeere]

You won't know until you get one removed. Heck, they could have welded or swaged ORFS inserts in the ends of each tube for all you know, easily fixed with a new o-ring. Pull a line off and have a look!

BTW, I've never seen a 15mm line size, not that I've seen everything. But metric line would usually skip from 12mm to 16mm, at least in most systems I've seen.

 

[meringer]

Thanks WinterDeere. Micrometer is indicating 15mm... unless the paint is so thick it is throwing it off. Can't be as small as 12mm and certainly is not 16mm. Hy-Lok makes fittings for 15mm tube so maybe? Either that or we are back to fractional and JIS. As you say, need to get one removed and check it out.

 

[ptsg]

Yes, 15 mm tubing does exist and it's very common.

 

[WinterDeere]

Yeah, I just did a search and found there are indeed 15mm tubing and fittings available. That size appears to be skipped over by most hydraulic manufacturers I've used, like I said they seem to jump from 12 to 16mm, but it does exist.

I live not far from New Holland PA, and just assumed all of their tractors were made there, and would thus use Imperial-sized hydraulics. So I was more suggesting that it might be an inch size line, although 19/32" is even less common than 15mm, and I doubt there's enough paint in there to make a 9/16" line measure so large as .5925.

Doesn't New Holland have an online parts catalog, from which you can find/source these components? Deere has every part for damn near every machine they've ever made in their online parts catalogs. Go to catalog, type in machine or implement model number, and drill down thru the drawings to the part you need. That would tell you the fitting type at least, whether swagelok, ORFS, JIC, etc.

 

[meringer]

I have the parts catalog for the tractor but unfortunately, the description is next to useless. Parts 27,28,and 29 are the tubes in question. Description is "Pipe-Oil" NH website offers no additional information. Same for Messicks

 

[wdchyd]

Thank you wdchyd. I share your concerns about over tightening. I believe that these fittings are meant to seal with with a specific number of turns. Not sure if that applies only to first install or also to re-install. Thanks also for the picture. Helps to verify type of connector. So am I correct that the DIN connection does not utilize a flared end on tube? If that is the case, and there is no damage to the tube, can I simply replace the nut and ferrules? Alternately, if there is damage to the tube, can I cut the tube and join a new short length of tube using a union connector instead of replacing the entire (custom bent) tube?

Typically the number of turns is for new tubing and fittings, 1 to 1 1/8 turns is usual from finger tight.
Nuts can be reused but replacing only the ferrules is problematic cuz the original ferrule distorts the tubing to give it the bite. It’s worth a try, the ferrule may be split. If you can get away with cutting the tubing just before the ferrule that’ll work too.
Putting in a splice with a union of same style works if the old tubing has straight clean smooth finish for new ferrule to bite, then a new short length will work fine.

 

[wdchyd]

If you can’t find anyone locally to source these parts PM me.

 

[WinterDeere]

I have the parts catalog for the tractor but unfortunately, the description is next to useless. Parts 27,28,and 29 are the tubes in question. Description is "Pipe-Oil" NH website offers no additional information. Same for Messicks

Actually, that picture might be useful. Items 23 and 24 appear to be o-rings, yet it appears the fittings on your unit have pipe dope on those threads. Pipe dope should never be used on an ORFS fitting, perhaps indicating a prior owner re-assembled with bad or missing o-rings, and tried to incorrectly repair the resulting leak with dope?

 

[Seven Gables]

Thanks for the input everyone. Tube does appear to be metric. Measured OD at .5925" (15mm).
27mm line wrench is on order. Will try to tighten and let you know what I find out.

What type of line wrench have you got coming? I’ve been looking at a set of Milton Shockit line wrench sets you use with a air impact hammer or a hammer and punch in a pinch. They look like they’d be the ticket in that exact situation

 

[meringer]

Well, I got the line to stop leaking (at least for now). Had to pull all four of the 12mm front lines and one of the 15mm lines to get to the one leaking. Confirmed that they are DIN fittings. The 27mm line wrench (sometimes called a flare nut wrench) was essential to tighten the leaking fitting. I put about a 1/8th turn on it and then tested it before wrenching any harder. It worked. There could have been work done by a previous owner. Hoping I don't have to do a repeat performance soon but thanks to the input from everyone on this thread, I feel much more confident in tackling it next time. Picture attached for wrench reference. Amazon purchase ($17).
Thanks for the offer on the parts wdchyd!
Happy Fathers Day to all you Dads out there! And thanks again for everyone's input!

 

[wdchyd]

Glad it worked out