Hydraulic motor and pump help

[Metalburner]

Yeah I'll do that (linked one). I may upgrade in the future, so long as I can still have flexibility is always a plus. I was planning on at least 8-10 gallons of fluid. I'm wondering if itll be better to run 2 spool valves or a joystick for the motors. And also if a joystick with a float feature will work with a front loader or not. I like the float feature, since our driveway has a lot of cracks and dips in it, I don't want to tear it up more than I have to.

 

[aczlan]

Yeah I'll do that (linked one). I may upgrade in the future, so long as I can still have flexibility is always a plus. I was planning on at least 8-10 gallons of fluid. I'm wondering if itll be better to run 2 spool valves or a joystick for the motors. And also if a joystick with a float feature will work with a front loader or not. I like the float feature, since our driveway has a lot of cracks and dips in it, I don't want to tear it up more than I have to.

No joystick or other valve would be needed for the valves I linked. They have a piece sticking out that your control sticks go to which controls fluid flow and direction.

Aaron Z

 

[farm boy00]

Just a thought for speed. My mini loader (custom built from a trencher) runs walking speed maybe. Complete pain in the @$$ if you have to go along a 1000ft driveway it takes along time. And you dont wanna be on it during the winter because its so slow and cold out
I would love to be able to go at teast 5mph. Another thought for you is something like it. Full time 4x4, all tires drive all time. But turning it wont rip the grass up like tracks and can find projects half dont for $500 around me here and there. The trencher already has all drive motors

 

[Metalburner]

My thing with wheels though is. They can slip when pushing heavy snow. While not a huge deal, the driveway goes down in to a ditch on either side and getting up close to the sides when even snow blowing, we have had snow blowers go in to the ditch and they are not fun to pull out.

I know 4wd would be easy to do, since I could do it with a chain and sprocket setup vs 4 wheel motors. Another thing is, up front we have very soft ground for whatever reason, and wheels do lose traction fairly easily going up the ditch, even with good tires. So I think the damage vs tracks would almost be the same. Like I've mentioned, I'll probably make rubber pads for the tracks to help minimize damage.

I could get SK500 or SK750 tracks, which would work nicely, just would have to have custom sprockets and bogies made for it.

 

[Metalburner]

I had seriously considered building a tractor with wheels with either power steering or articulated. Trouble is, trying to find a strong suitable hydrostatic transaxle that'll do what I need. I know the K92 would work, just trying to find one isn't easy, unless I shell out the kind of cash people are asking for those garden tractors on the used market.

From what I understand is, if I were to use a hydrostatic transaxle and wanted power steering, I could tap into the transaxle to the orbital valve vs running a priority valve.

 

[oldnslo]

metal burner,
One last comment from me. BEFORE purchasing any components do a search for "tracked vehicle turning'' and then read up on the forces required. I don't think you or anyone wants to put significant, time, money, & effort into something & not have it work when it is all done. Depending on your final track dimensions, vehicle weight, etc. the "linked components" may or may not work. Based on my feeble memory of turning forces required and the machine specs you have provided I would lean towards the will not side of things.

I wish you the very best in this project

 

[Metalburner]

metal burner,
One last comment from me. BEFORE purchasing any components do a search for "tracked vehicle turning'' and then read up on the forces required. I don't think you or anyone wants to put significant, time, money, & effort into something & not have it work when it is all done. Depending on your final track dimensions, vehicle weight, etc. the "linked components" may or may not work. Based on my feeble memory of turning forces required and the machine specs you have provided I would lean towards the will not side of things.

I wish you the very best in this project

Dooly noted. It is one of my concerns with this thing. I'm deciding between 6 and 8 inch wide tracks, which are roughly the width of front garden tractor tires. The weight I won't know until I list out every piece I will need. But from the bit I do know from the top of my head, with the engine weighing about 110lbs, the hydraulic pumps weigh about 15lbs each and 12lbs for the motors, the frame I'm not sure on its own but my best guess about 500lbs being conservative on it then another 250-300lbs for the front loader I'm probably pushing 1000-1200lbs just on the machine itself, not including a load in the bucket, weight of the operator (160-180lbs), battery, fuel, hydro oil, track weight, etc...I would not be surprised in the slightest if with a load, it's pushing 1800lbs or more.

Battery would be either underneath or beside the operator seat, hydraulic oil near the engine, fuel tank will be opposite of the battery. I'll get back to you guys in a while. I'll try to draw up a design on paper then try to work out the weight of the machine's frame so we have a better idea.

 

[Metalburner]

So been working the numbers of just the tubing for the frame of the tractor and frame of the front loader, not including engine, wheel motors, pumps, etc 1,235lbs of just 2"x4x1/8" tubing. Adding the weight of the engine, fuel tank, oil tank, operator, fuel, oil.. looking at least 1,800lbs to possibly 2,000lbs.

Here's the dimensions of the tractor, 54" long, 18" wide 30" tall at the hood. Hood will be made from 1x1"x1/8" angle iron, with a pivot at the front for the hood to tip forward. Hood covering will be 14ga mild steel sheet metal. Engine mounts as well as hydraulic oil and fuel tank mounts will be made out of the same angle iron.

What I also added to the frame weight was the framing for the track mounts was also 2"x4"x1/8" tubing. Keep in mind this is roughly the dimensions of a garden or lawn tractor.

 

[Metalburner]

Okay redact what I posted about the weight. The calculator online I was using was dead off by a lot. 2x4x1/8 tubing is roughly 4.88lbs per foot. With 568" or 47.33 feet that's just over 235lbs or so. Had to recheck the math because that weight seemed way too high.

 

[Mandres]

Hi, I've been in the sketching-on-the-back-of-a-napkin phase of a similar project for the last few months too. This is a great thread with very helpful and knowledgeable people, I'm glad I came across it. I'm looking at a similar design to the Toro Dingo or the Ditch Witch models you referenced earlier so we have similar goals in mind.

Check out this pump at Surplus Center: #9-7686

I like this option a lot. It's dirt cheap for the flow it delivers, and since it's pulley-driven I'm planning to use a vertical shaft engine from a riding mower with a blown trans. Readily available and big hp for ... again ... dirt cheap. I'd like to drive two more small pumps off a vertical jackshaft to mitigate the thrust force. One for the loader lift/curl and one for attachment power (auger, tiller, etc.). It should make for a nice compact setup if I can make all the lines/fittings fit and orient everything to spin the right way.

This guy built a tracked dozer around the same pump and did a good job documenting it: www . mytractorforum.com/119-home-made-tractors-implements-accessories/738865-mini-dozer.html#/topics/738865?_k=tknz90