Hydraulic scarifiers: various designs

[Xfaxman]

Well I bit on it for $2600 plus tax.

Sounds good, $350 off of the asking price.

Will it fit your quick hitch?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Sounds good, $350 off of the asking price.

Will it fit your quick hitch?

I sent my sister on a quest to the pole barn to measure things on up on my quick hitch. She measured my SpeeCo Cat 2 standard Quick Hitch to having 1/2" of play on inside of the Cat 2 lugs the Frontier BB4284, and an eyeballed center to center height of 14.5" from the bottom lugs to the center hook (N) on our chart. I eyeballed just under 15" out on the box blade itself and the official space is 14.88"

Anyway, I decided it must be able to fit and did a walk away over lunch and came back to execute the negotiation (he offered $2700 as low as he could go before lunch, I countered at $2500.00 after lunch and was predictably declined, and then I suggested we meet in the middle at $2600 which was accepted).

One thing Travis and Ted from Everything Attachments can take away from this thread is that if they make a hydraulic box scrapper that is compatible with a Cat 2 standard quick hitch, they need to market it as compatible with the quick hitch and they'll capture the heavy CUT market because nobody should be forced to do this many lifeline calls out to the collective knowledge of tractorbynet just to get a box blade to work with a Quick Hitch.

Thanks for all the help, everybody!

Onto photos.

Frontier had a BB1284 that is a duplicate of the Gannon HB84. The BB4284 tower is changed from the Gannon as well as the Cat 1, Cat 2 pins to get clearance for the Quick Hitch. The tower offsets the hydraulic ram to the right.

Frontier uses an eccentric on each end of their blade to limit or lock down the tailgate. The tailgate is not rolled like EA and Gannon, but is stitch welded.

Straight up Gannon design for lifting the scarifier bar up and out of the way.

Like the Gannons, the rear moldboard is continuously curved to get the dirt rolling in the box.

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup:

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Here is a Steve's Gannon Hitch Mod diagram.

Steve, if you've got a dxf file you're willing to share, we can get that attached to this thread too.

 

[jenkinsph]

With the size and power of your tractor, I would make an adapter that would pin to the BB and fit the quick hitch.

View attachment 412274

Thanks for posting, if the weather is good tomorrow I will see if I can come up with a fix.

 

[BukitCase]

Thought most of the text from the email I sent you would be pertinent here too - here 'tiz

A word of warning - even with this mod, the top pin on mine is a bit tricky to get lined up - TnT is a must on that and other implements.

Also, mine's set up for Cat1, altho even the older Gannons have lower ears for both 1 and 2. So you may need to alter the amount of offset.

I beveled both the old ears and the new pieces (both 5/8" thick) til there was only about 1/8" left, then welded it up with 7018. To keep things from pulling out of position, I took some 3/4" allthread and cut pieces about 1/8" shorter than the spacing between ears, then ran 2 nuts onto the allthread, slid the "baby jack" between ears and ran the nuts out to maintain spread.

Two more longer pieces of allthread and 4 nuts per piece, and I'd locked the width down thru the pin holes. It was a ***** getting to the insides to weld, but not impossible. Whoever does the welds better be fairly good at OOP welding though :=)

Actually, that drawing originated in WinDoze Paint (yeah, I've used it a fair amount :=) - the only CAD pgm I'm fluent in is an ancient (DOS only) thing called Generic Cadd - been using it since the '80's, then Autodesk (who had bought it in self defense) finally stopped supporting it when Windoze took over. I have their older "QuickCad", which combination allows me to draw in one I'm used to, convert it to DXF, import that to QuickCad, fiddle with it a bit and print it. Neither pgm will take a bitmap and convert it to vector though. (Besides, once it's a bit map there's no point, other than markups maybe??)

Even thought I'm retired, I have more I wanna do than I EVER got paid to do :laughing: and all the monkey motion to print something out is getting even older than me sooo, about a week ago I dnl 3 or 4 of the higher recommended free cad pgms, haven't gotten around to trying any but Qcad's "teaser" pdf sounded logical to me (knocking on wood - why do I have a headache??!?)

Hopefully one of those CAD's will "click" with me and I can do drawings fast enough to beat using a flat board and charcoal

If anyone has other questions I missed, about this mod or any other problems with the QH/Gannon combo, feel free... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Jenkins, being in business, if you ever might consider selling your Gannon I would go for Xfaxman's idea instead of mine if your tractor is big enough not to care about 3-4" longer arms with 1200# on it - it wasn't mentioned, but I would definitely NOT use the free-standing pins in that drawing on anything that massive.

I'm assuming "X" wouldn't either, looks like a "borrowed" thang just for illustration

Just a thought... Steve

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

BTW, I think I posted another pic of a (now apparently discontinued) QH from Priefert - I'm strongly leaning toward either starting over or modding my HF QH for this. I'll post it if it's aready in my pics, stay tuned - View attachment 412362

Yup, it wuz already there ...Steve

Bukit, I have one of those. If you need any measurements, let me know.

 

[Xfaxman]

Jenkins, being in business, if you ever might consider selling your Gannon I would go for Xfaxman's idea instead of mine if your tractor is big enough not to care about 3-4" longer arms with 1200# on it - it wasn't mentioned, but I would definitely NOT use the free-standing pins in that drawing on anything that massive.

I'm assuming "X" wouldn't either, looks like a "borrowed" thang just for illustration

Just a thought... Steve

Right, a google image search, trying to get the concept out there.

I don't have any experience with drawing software. I use Paint,net for what little I can do.

Thanks for adding your suggestion on the clevis pin mounts.

 

[BukitCase]

X, you're entirely welcome - sometimes these "quick" hitches remind me of the snake oil salesman advertising "instant water" - directions - you just add water...

Pappy, thanks for the offer - mainly I'd like to hear your opinion/reasons on that hitch - it appears they don't offer ANYTHING related to implements any more, other than "high speed chicken scratch stirrers" - makes me wonder how I'm gonna get my "lifetime guaranteed against breakage" tiller tines replaced

I grabbed that pic off their site when it was still available, thought I'd borrow the toplink scheme - my Caroni flail has Cat 1 spacing on the drawpins, and (approximately) Cat 2 spacing on tower height I fabbed up a couple flat bars with holes in 'em short term, but simply pulling a pin and instantly adjusting top hook height seems 'way more "civilized".

I gotta stop ramblin' on, despite y'all bein' all polite :laughing: Gotta hopefully get more done on a pull-down stair for the mezzanine in my shop, would like to finish it in the next day or two.

Eric, congrats on your new goody - $2 a pound ain't all that bad for store-bought stuff these days ...Steve

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, congrats on your new goody - $2 a pound ain't all that bad for store-bought stuff these days ...Steve

Thanks. The 2014 BB4284 SRP is $4077, and yesterday morning, I called around and a friend told me his cost was $3331 and he'd need to charge me shipping and make some money. Basically, he told me to buy this used one if we could figure out if it would fit a quick hitch (as he couldn't). I wanted the price down far enough that if I wanted to sell it, I'd be in the range of getting about what I paid for it back.

Looks like Wednesday I chase up to Nevis, Minnesota to fetch my dump trailer to haul the new-to-me box scraper home.

I still need to get a rake and land plane.

In other news, I'm currently the high bidder on a new-in-the-box 10-ton Hein-Werner floor jack for $460. That's a $2600, 400-pound jack!

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

. . . .

Pappy, thanks for the offer - mainly I'd like to hear your opinion/reasons on that hitch - it appears they don't offer ANYTHING related to implements any more, other than "high speed chicken scratch stirrers" - makes me wonder how I'm gonna get my "lifetime guaranteed against breakage" tiller tines replaced

I grabbed that pic off their site when it was still available, thought I'd borrow the toplink scheme - my Caroni flail has Cat 1 spacing on the drawpins, and (approximately) Cat 2 spacing on tower height I fabbed up a couple flat bars with holes in 'em short term, but simply pulling a pin and instantly adjusting top hook height seems 'way more "civilized".

. . . .

Steve, I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit I bought that Priefert quick hitch and haven't used it yet. My two main implements I used are my Gannon box blade and my Rhino 172 cutter. Since the Gannon isn't compatible with my quick hitch, I've just left the quick hitch off the tractor.

I think Priefert is still big in cattle and horse panels, chutes, etc. So I think you'd have no issues getting your tiller tines replaced if necessary.

 

[jenkinsph]

Jenkins, being in business, if you ever might consider selling your Gannon I would go for Xfaxman's idea instead of mine if your tractor is big enough not to care about 3-4" longer arms with 1200# on it - it wasn't mentioned, but I would definitely NOT use the free-standing pins in that drawing on anything that massive.

I'm assuming "X" wouldn't either, looks like a "borrowed" thang just for illustration

Just a thought... Steve

Thanks for the reply. I will use cardboard to make templates then cut that out of 5/8" flat bar stock I have already. I don't have any qualms with welding on the box blade, it is just a tool in the grand scheme of things. Last year during the winter I came up with a design to add wheels and a tow type tongue to use this for laser leveling. I have since decided to buy a separate pull type drag box and keep the Gannon as is for hogging out the dirt. Sometimes it is best to keep it simple.

I use TurboCad Pro 14 for most of my drawings but still use the old school Mayline boards too. A project like this speaks to using cardboard from a shoe box, kiss. Thanks for the help.

 

[BukitCase]

Pappy, no need for embarrasment (at least, no more than mine :=) - you'd probably laugh if you knew how much stuff I have stored in the back of the shop that hasn't been out of the box yet - it hasn't reached the top of the project list yet, but I know it will... also, depending on which QH you use a hydraulic toplink MIGHT make the Gannon usable on QH. It did on mine (with my lower mod - it's also possible that the Priefert QH AND a hydraulic toplink would be all you need.

Jenkins, glad to help - BTW, the way I did my Gannon shouldn't interfere with ANYTHING - the original holes are still usable, although I haven't tried it on a NON-QH set of arms, if the lower ball joint arms were bent too close to the balls themselves it might bind.

My thoughts on that design were 1 - up AND forward got the geometry more like other implements, and at that time I didn't have the TnT set up, and 2 - I figured maybe with the welds running in TWO axes it should be stronger.

So far no problems at all, I've cut/moved about 400 yards of clay soil to level out an area off one end of my shop, AFTER first stripping off most of the gravel into separate piles - then I put the rock back with the Case loader - wasn't quite enough of that, but it's getting me thru the winter without getting stuck... Steve

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I need to chase this to northern Minnesota!

 

[Xfaxman]

Looks like it will be following and chasing you.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Here is my video review of the Frontier BB4284H that I purchased.