Hydraulic Side Link Cylinder Recommendation

[Cocre]

Getting ready to install a hydraulic side link, and wondering what the thoughts are on this cylinder;

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=3516013115295779&item=9-7258-8&catname=

My current side link is ~18" center to center at its shortest; this cylinder is ~15". I was thinking I could cut off the rod-end eye and weld on a yoke from Deere (LVU17518 ). This should take me close to the original 18" length and give me 8" of ram extension. Using the original Deere yoke will cost about $35, but I will be able to maintain the draft link float capability. I have a bi-directional flow regulator valve in the line that will feed the cylinder so the small diameter cylinder will not extend or retract faster than I set it to.

Comments are welcome.

 

[zzvyb6]

Depending on what you hook up to this, it will be necessary to watch for the implement hitting the tire on the opposite side (like a landscape rake for example).

 

[DR3045]

I am also going to put hydraulic side links on my tractor I called CCM like others have said to on this web site but they said they do not recommend putting them on both sides because you could turn the tractor over. Does anyone know what they might be talking about?
Thanks

 

[ChrsDrn]

I am also going to put hydraulic side links on my tractor I called CCM like others have said to on this web site but they said they do not recommend putting them on both sides because you could turn the tractor over. Does anyone know what they might be talking about?
Thanks

If you were to have 3ph fully raised then extened both of your side links you could lift the back of your tractor, 3ph is not designed for this, in normal operation they float, I have to watch out for this with just a hydrolic top link when using my york rake. I have a 2305 and the smallest toplink that ccm sells, with the arms raised I can almost lift the rear wheels by extending the top link, but when the rake is angled it lifts just one wheel add this to a side hill it seems it could roll easy.
Chris

 

[russG]

I did the same thing with my tractor. The only thing I would do different is use a double pilot value. After some time the cylinder will leak down and must be adjusted a good bit.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If I were going to make a hydraulic side link for your 3320, I would use a 2 1/2" x 4" cylinder. Cut the ends off of the cylinder and your fixed side link. Weld the stock link ends onto the hydraulic and that should get you 2" of travel in each direction. This way you have tilt in both directions. If you need more tilt, then retract the cylinder all the way and adjust (shorten) the adjustable side link to match. Remember that you will only have tilt in one direction if you set your 3pt level with the hydraulic fully retracted.

I would not get the hydraulic that you are looking at, it is to small in my opinion.

Good luck

 

[HayDR]

Getting ready to install a hydraulic side link, and wondering what the thoughts are on this cylinder;

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=3516013115295779&item=9-7258-8&catname=

My current side link is ~18" center to center at its shortest; this cylinder is ~15". I was thinking I could cut off the rod-end eye and weld on a yoke from Deere (LVU17518 ). This should take me close to the original 18" length and give me 8" of ram extension. Using the original Deere yoke will cost about $35, but I will be able to maintain the draft link float capability. I have a bi-directional flow regulator valve in the line that will feed the cylinder so the small diameter cylinder will not extend or retract faster than I set it to.

Comments are welcome.

If you cut off ball and weld the OEM JD clevis end your total length will be over 18" center to center. To be around the 15" total for a side-link you will need a cylinder that is 10" from the base end to the end of the cylinder rod when the cylinder is fully retracted. Most of the float yokes I have seen on the JD tractors are made from cast. It is tricky for just anyone to weld dissimilar metals like cast and a hardened steel rod. Besides the JD cast clevis is 8" long and would have to be all but destroyed to use it. Most small tractors need 3.5" clearance on the bottom clevis to achieve a full range of motion. Add up the 3.5" on the bottom clevis, 10" of the cylinder & 1.5 for the top and you will get 15" total. A 15" side-link usually uses a 4-5" stroke cylinder.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Mark, do you have the measurements for his JD 3320, or are you thinking of JD in general? And I have a question for you, do you usually make your side links so that they can-should be used for tilt in both directions, or are your side links intended for tilting in one direction only?

Just curious

Oh, I don't think that the clevis on his 3320 is 8" long, but I could very well be wrong, it wouldn't be the first time, it should be 3 1/2" inside of clevis to center of 5/8" pin. But then I believe that Cocre might have made a mistake in his center line measurements also, the 3320 that I have measured was 17 1/2" pin-pin center of adjustment.

 

[DR3045]

In your opinion having hydraulic side links on both side would you recommend it?
Thanks for your help

 

[MtnViewRanch]

In your opinion having hydraulic side links on both side would you recommend it?
hanks for your help

The bonus of having two hydraulic side links is that you can get a steeper angle to cut with. No, I do not feel that the two hydraulic side links are needed. I have had mine for five years now and have never needed to have the ability to cut a steeper angle than what I am able to cut. (11 degrees with my box blade) With my tilting rear blade I can cut a lot steeper, 45 degrees maybe, not really sure. So with one hydraulic set at 1/2 of its travel to be level, I can tilt both left and right an equal amount.

Oh, and on both of my tractors, my side links are set at the midway point as is the remaining stock adjustable side link. So I have not really changed the standard stock adjustments, only made them easier to make using the hydraulic.

If you were to have two, that is fine, maybe even cool, but in my opinion not needed. There are several guys here that either have two or want two, and that is all fine and dandy and I'm sure that two hydraulic side links will suit their needs better than one, but for me, one is just fine.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am also going to put hydraulic side links on my tractor I called CCM like others have said to on this web site but they said they do not recommend putting them on both sides because you could turn the tractor over. Does anyone know what they might be talking about?
Thanks

I have no idea, ask Mark @ CCM just what and or how that might occur.

Mark, what are your concerns regarding having 2 hydraulic side links?

 

[Cocre]

If you cut off ball and weld the OEM JD clevis end your total length will be over 18" center to center. To be around the 15" total for a side-link you will need a cylinder that is 10" from the base end to the end of the cylinder rod when the cylinder is fully retracted. Most of the float yokes I have seen on the JD tractors are made from cast. It is tricky for just anyone to weld dissimilar metals like cast and a hardened steel rod. Besides the JD cast clevis is 8" long and would have to be all but destroyed to use it. Most small tractors need 3.5" clearance on the bottom clevis to achieve a full range of motion. Add up the 3.5" on the bottom clevis, 10" of the cylinder & 1.5 for the top and you will get 15" total. A 15" side-link usually uses a 4-5" stroke cylinder.

JD has two different style side links for the 3320 according to jdparts, mine is the straight one. The clevis for my type can be bought as a single piece for $35 (LVU17518). I do not believe it is 8 inches long even in total length, and from the base (where I would weld) to the center of the float slot it is around 3 or 4 inches max.

My big concern is the size of the rod and cylinder diameter. A 1.5" bore with a 1" dia rod does not leave much for 2500 psi to push against. I don't know what linear forces are involved, I just think that I might can overload such a small cylinder.

 

[DR3045]

Picked up my side links from CCM They know there stuff I brought them home they made the hoses for me hook them up and they work Great!!! :thumbsup:
I wish everything can go as smooth as dealing with them.

Thank you Mark

 

[Cocre]

I purchased a 2x6x1.25 cylinder and associated fittings/hoses from Surplus Center a couple of days ago to use as my side link. When it comes in I will have to do some cutting and welding, but that will be fun.

The 2" diameter cylinder may have some interference with the right backhoe adapter plate when the 3pt hitch is all the way up and the hitch arms are spread to the max. But I have no implement with the hitch pins near that wide, so I think it will mostly be a non-issue. That is why I first looked at a 1.5" cylinder, but I came to the conclusion that the smaller cylinder was just not man enough for the job.

 

[J_J]

The 1.5 in cyl would have given you 2218 lbs of push force, and the 2 in cyl, 7864 lbs of push force. .

 

[Cocre]

Unless my calcs are wrong the push force is ~4417 lbs for the 1.5 in cylinder (area of 1.767 sq in times the 2500 PSI system pressure). What drove me to the 2 inch diameter was the pull force, but I was in error with my initial calc on that, I figured that I had only ~982 lbs of pull force with the 1.5 and thought that to be unacceptable on a hitch that is rated at 2200 lbs 24 in behind the link arms. What I forgot to do is to multiply the .982 figure (what was left of the area after subtracting the area of the rod from the total cylinder area) by the PSI. So the actual pull force is ~2455 lbs which may be acceptable, but by the time I figured out my mistake I had already ordered the 2 incher. Anyway I feel more comfortable with pull forces of the larger cylinder along with the larger rod diameter. I guess I could have also flipped the 1.5 rod side up and benefitted from the extra force there, but too late now.

I don't think I ever want to put push forces on the three point hitch anyway. The pull force is what will lift or hold the attachment. If I ever exceed the lift value excessive pressure will build in the hydraulic system either causing it to go into relief or perhaps damage something.