Hydraulic top link advice needed

[murphy1244]

Maybe to run a backhoe or log splitter where the controls are on the attachment.

 

[Stihlrunner]

In what country? I ask, because I don't recall seeing anything like that on small Jinmas coming into the USA.

//greg//

Chinese goods purchased right here in the USA!:laughing:

 

[kneedeep]

Use a Hydraulink

AgSupply has them for $260 :thumbsup:

 

[greg_g]

Ok, then that's a recent change to incoming Jinmas that many of us will unlikely have seen before. I'm thinking this is something you should take up with the selling dealer - or with another dealer who's received inventory with this feature.

About the Hydraulink recommendation, I'll admit up front that I've only read about them. You can view the website information and decide for yourself, but I'd say it was presumptuous to put it in the same category with a HTL. To me, it's a device that fits somewhere in between a conventional rigid toplink and its hydraulic big brother. Not cheap either.

//greg//

 

[Stihlrunner]

Since nobody seems to be familiar with my setup, I'm going to try to figure this one out.

The facts of the case are these:

There are two hydraulic ports on the rear under the seat. One clearly goes to the reservoir under the seat. The other runs up to black of lines near the loader. Assuming this is some kind of distribution box. Near as I can tell, there is no control for the remotes...like they are just "on".

My Wilco store has a top link cylinder for $89. I'm thinking of buying that. Have one hose made that goes to return and one that goes to a single lever valve joystick.

Any flaws in that plan?

 

[phiferpharm]

I'd have to second the opinion on the Hydraulink being a substitute for the real thing. I have one and it does not really allow you the type of adjustment you get with a real hydraulic top link. I bought it for my FarmTrac, but didn't like it for the Kioti.

 

[greg_g]

My Wilco store has a top link cylinder for $89.

I'm having a hard time envisioning a Cat 1 HTL for $89. Before you commit, I recommend you verify its lift capacity. The 200 series 2200 PSI hydraulic system is rated to lift 875 pounds 24" back at the swivels. That means there's enough hydraulic pressure to (try and) make a HTL lift even more than that.

Knowing that, I'd be a little afraid of an $89 HTL.

//greg//

 

[tpulley]

I put one on my Kioti. It is sooooo much nicer to have infite control from the drivers seat of the top link.

On my kioti it came with a set or rear remotes (dk45se) these are controlled by the valve "stick" under the FEL joystick.

I got mine from Agrisupply, put the hoses and fittings on there etc. Then realized as I had it on I needed about 2 inches more of travel than I had. I cut the end that mounts to the tractor and welded a block of steel in between them. I LOVE it. It has been on for about 3-4 months now.

I can see I want/need another set of remotes now as I am about to hook up a post driver that will use the RR too.

On your Jinma if you have the rear remotes you almost have to ahve some valve stick to make the hydraulic fluid flow.

 

[dfkrug]

There are two hydraulic ports on the rear under the seat. One clearly goes to the reservoir under the seat. The other runs up to black of lines near the loader. Assuming this is some kind of distribution box. Near as I can tell, there is no control for the remotes...like they are just "on".

My Wilco store has a top link cylinder for $89. I'm thinking of buying that. Have one hose made that goes to return and one that goes to a single lever valve joystick.

Sounds like you have a setup for a backhoe (or log splitter) as MURPHY
says. That would mean that the distribution box you see has some sort
of manual diverter control on it to switch the Power Beyond Out from the
FEL valve between either the 3-pt cyl or the AUX fittings you see on the
rear. The control is usually a small slotted screw head valve in the block,
maybe 1/2" in diameter. It rotates 90-deg to divert flow.

If that's what you have, then your AUX setup won't work for a hyd toplink
since the AUX would be usable only when the 3-pt is not. That's OK for
a hoe, but you really need both the 3PT and the HTL at the same time.

If or when you do get a HTL setup, you will use a single spool valve, mounted
to your fender or ROPS. A joystick control is for operating 2 valves, so
you don't need that.

Maybe the $89 HTL cyl you saw was Cat 0? I don't think I have ever seen a
Cat 1 HTL cyl sell for less than $179. I think off-the-shelf is OK here,
unless you want to have a HTL with a particular closed and extended
length ideally suited to your tractor and implements. I have had both.