Hydraulic Top Link for Mahindra Max26L

[RNeumann]

So the diverter setup eliminates the need for a dedicated valve and plumbing. To say it another way my TNT setup basically has a second loader control valve/joystick type setup. That type of setup wouldn’t really work with the diverter setup discussed above. To do the full on TNT plan on about $2000. $1000 ish for the cylinders and valves and brackets and $1000 ish for install including hoses.

To do the diverter setup discussed above it’s a few hundred to install and the parts should be about $500. The rear top cylinder would add another $300-$500 with hoses which puts this project at $1000-$1200ish.

All the prices above are rough “dealer” type prices since that’s who you keep referencing. I know someone on here has a cousin who has some parts and a buddy who did everything above for $19.95........I know!

If you wanted to tackle the project or know someone who isn’t a dealer who could tackle the project the HTL cylinder can be had for about $150 with proper ends and the diverter with simple switch is another $250 or so. Hoses and fittings is probably another $300 or so- 4 quick connects and probably 4-6 hoses. Plus a few little mounting brackets.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

So the diverter setup eliminates the need for a dedicated valve and plumbing. To say it another way my TNT setup basically has a second loader control valve/joystick type setup. That type of setup wouldn’t really work with the diverter setup discussed above. To do the full on TNT plan on about $2000. $1000 ish for the cylinders and valves and brackets and $1000 ish for install including hoses.

To do the diverter setup discussed above it’s a few hundred to install and the parts should be about $500. The rear top cylinder would add another $300-$500 with hoses which puts this project at $1000-$1200ish.

All the prices above are rough “dealer” type prices since that’s who you keep referencing. I know someone on here has a cousin who has some parts and a buddy who did everything above for $19.95........I know!

If you wanted to tackle the project or know someone who isn’t a dealer who could tackle the project the HTL cylinder can be had for about $150 with proper ends and the diverter with simple switch is another $250 or so. Hoses and fittings is probably another $300 or so- 4 quick connects and probably 4-6 hoses. Plus a few little mounting brackets.

Darn. I love to build stuff but always kinda hated mechanics, everything so hard to reach and covered in black grease. And the idea of playing with hoses that could spurt fluid at high pressure does not appeal. So yes, this will be a dealer job.

BTW, since I plan to add a QH, probably the HF or Agri, will I be needing extra inches on the top link?

I really do appreciate everyone's help with this.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Darn. I love to build stuff but always kinda hated mechanics, everything so hard to reach and covered in black grease. And the idea of playing with hoses that could spurt fluid at high pressure does not appeal. So yes, this will be a dealer job.

BTW, since I plan to add a QH, probably the HF or Agri, will I be needing extra inches on the top link?

I really do appreciate everyone's help with this.

As long as you get a full 3pt quick hitch, the top link remains standard. If you were to go with a Pat's type quick hitch, then you need a 4" longer top link.

As far as a typical hydraulic top link, you need something around a 17 1/2"-23 1/2" working length.

Do yourself a favor and just get the factory Mahindra rear remote set. A lot of $$$$, but really the best option without getting into a full custom system.

If you decide later that you want-need more, then you can add diverters to that set and still have all the controls in a control grip on the factory control lever as pictured.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

As long as you get a full 3pt quick hitch, the top link remains standard. If you were to go with a Pat's type quick hitch, then you need a 4" longer top link.

As far as a typical hydraulic top link, you need something around a 17 1/2"-23 1/2" working length.

Do yourself a favor and just get the factory Mahindra rear remote set. A lot of $$$$, but really the best option without getting into a full custom system.

If you decide later that you want-need more, then you can add diverters to that set and still have all the controls in a control grip on the factory control lever as pictured.

Thank you, that makes perfect sense. Would the full custom (from you) be a lot more $$$ than the factory Mahindra, and how long would it take?

 

[RNeumann]

FYI- that’s Fit Rite responding and is good advice.

Brian-

Do you make a self contained top link with a manual valve like was discussed above? Obviously some interesting internals since their isn’t a reservoir or maybe all air???

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thank you, that makes perfect sense. Would the full custom (from you) be a lot more $$$ than the factory Mahindra, and how long would it take?

Lead times are longer than you want to wait, (currently 18 weeks) and I quit doing complete valve systems for various reasons. I really think that your best option is to get the factory rear remote and a top link. Here is an off the shelf unit that is probably the closest that you will find other than mine for what you should have. The valve system is easy to expand from the factory rear remote set using the diverters and can be added at any time. :thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

FYI- that痴 Fit Rite responding and is good advice.

Brian-

Do you make a self contained top link with a manual valve like was discussed above? Obviously some interesting internals since their isn稚 a reservoir or maybe all air???

No I do not make anything that is self contained as has been linked to.

If you want to do any serious and accurate grading, I would not ever even consider something that oscillates on it's own changing the cutting angle of the cutting edge. :shocked::no::confused2:

Yes there is air in that system and why it is even possible, but air easily compresses and is why the rod moves in & out on it's own.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Lead times are longer than you want to wait, (currently 18 weeks) and I quit doing complete valve systems for various reasons. I really think that your best option is to get the factory rear remote and a top link. Here is an off the shelf unit that is probably the closest that you will find other than mine for what you should have. The valve system is easy to expand from the factory rear remote set using the diverters and can be added at any time. :thumbsup:

As a business owner myself with thousands of regular customers, I can easily imagine the reasons.....

Thank you for your honesty. So I could order this top-link and have the dealer order the rest of system from Mahindra? Sounds good, and I appreciate your expert advice.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As a business owner myself with thousands of regular customers, I can easily imagine the reasons.....

Thank you for your honesty. So I could order this top-link and have the dealer order the rest of system from Mahindra? Sounds good, and I appreciate your expert advice.

If I were in your shoes, that is what I would do. Don't forget to order the hose kit that goes with that top link.

One other note, and only because it HAS been a problem with some of the dealer valve installations. The valve lever should spring back to the center, as in let go of the lever and the lever goes back to neutral (closed) by itself. If the kit is not installed properly, the lever has to be manually moved to any and all locations and that IS NOT how it should work when installed properly.

Good luck and enjoy all the new equipment.