Hydraulic top link issues

[ovrszd]

Yep, as Brian said. I have one SCV and two Float valves. The top link is used on one of the float valves as is the side link. I use the SCV to run the scarifiers on the BB or the lift of my wheeled disc.

 

[Kodiak45]

What would you use a remote float valve for? Seems to defeat the purpose. I think I'll order one of those flow control valves instead of a restrictor. Do I just need one or should I get one for both ports?

 

[ovrszd]

What would you use a remote float valve for? Seems to defeat the purpose. I think I'll order one of those flow control valves instead of a restrictor. Do I just need one or should I get one for both ports?

LD1 can help you concerning how many flow control valves you need. He can also discuss the plumbing involved. I would prefer the valve be located where I can adjust it from the driver's seat.

Float valves are used with a variety of implements. I use mine with my 3pt brushcutter on uneven terrain. I also use it sometimes with my wheeled disc.

 

[olPete]

I would counter saying the majority of systems dump above the fluid level. I know my Ford does. Haven't confirmed the Kubota yet. But the valves are stacked on top of the 3pt cover with no external plumbing so am pretty sure it does too.

How are you getting on with your cylinder problem? I seem to be popping up all over, don't want to be Mr Know it all, have been pondering this issue you and the OP are having. I'm interested to know if your problem is related to your tractor or your cylinder, if you have had a moment to swap it onto the Ford and give it a whirl? Have a couple of things in mind if it's a cylinder with air causing it.

 

[LD1]

What would you use a remote float valve for? Seems to defeat the purpose. I think I'll order one of those flow control valves instead of a restrictor. Do I just need one or should I get one for both ports?

Being able to float a toplink or sidelink can be pretty handy for certain things.

Some old bushhogs.....have rigid links instead of a swinging clevis for the toplink to hook to. The result is the bushhog stays rigid. When going over uneven terrain, like crossing a dip in the ground and the front of the tractor goes up....the tailwheel is being forced into the ground. On cheap cutters (like king kutter) this just bends the flat straps going from the toplink down to the deck. On better cutters, it just raises the whole cutter. Lots of guys use chains in place of a toplink, or make a swinging clevis for the toplink, but a hydraulic toplink that floats will accomplish this as well.

A side link made to float is nice for doing rear blade work, or snowplowing. Allows the plow to tilt from side to side and follow the crown/contour of the road and not dig in.

1 vs 2 flow controls will depend on what you want to accomplish. If you want to prevent the toplink from extending too fast and causing it to bounce like the issues in this thread, then you can get by with just one if you want. A single flow control to meter the rod side fluid as it leaves the toplink.

I put two on mine. Because spool valves and cylinders WILL bleed a little bit. Mowing for 10 hours with a 1600# cutter on the back would require having to adjust the sidelink a few times due to bleeding off. Just a tiny bit of cylinder bleed off at the sidelink is magnified quite a bit at the end of a 8' cutter. SO with flow controls, I can shut them BOTH off and it acts just like the cylinders that have the double pilot check valves, meaning it wont bleed off. But I have the option to open them up and use float, in which a cylinder with DPCV's cannot use float.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I put two on mine. Because spool valves and cylinders WILL bleed a little bit. Mowing for 10 hours with a 1600# cutter on the back would require having to adjust the sidelink a few times due to bleeding off. Just a tiny bit of cylinder bleed off at the sidelink is magnified quite a bit at the end of a 8' cutter. SO with flow controls, I can **** them BOTH off and it acts just like the cylinders that have the double pilot check valves, meaning it wont bleed off. But I have the option to open them up and use float, in which a cylinder with DPCV's cannot use float.

^^ Thank you for that little gem up there. Would have never thought of that.

gg

 

[MtnViewRanch]

^^ Thank you for that little gem up there. Would have never thought of that.

gg

For top & tilt units, pretty sure that one on the rod side port will do the job.

 

[Gordon Gould]

For top & tilt units, pretty sure that one on the rod side port will do the job.

That makes sense - Thanks Brian !

gg

 

[LD1]

^^ Thank you for that little gem up there. Would have never thought of that.

gg

Hm, I should learn to proof read. Glad you got the meaning. Was supposed to be "shut" them off.....but that "I" is right next to the "U" on the keyboard:laughing:

 

[ovrszd]

How are you getting on with your cylinder problem? I seem to be popping up all over, don't want to be Mr Know it all, have been pondering this issue you and the OP are having. I'm interested to know if your problem is related to your tractor or your cylinder, if you have had a moment to swap it onto the Ford and give it a whirl? Have a couple of things in mind if it's a cylinder with air causing it.

I haven't tried the Kubota cylinder on the Ford. But I did try the Ford cylinder on the Kubota. Had the same "air" problem. I installed a restrictor on both cylinders and tried them again on the Kubota. Problem seemed to be solved. Weather hasn't allowed me to try them for more than a couple strokes.

Always open for ideas Pete!!!!