Hydraulic top link questions

Rowski · Apr 22, 2003

I have a few questions regarding the hydraulic top link. I have read about as much as my mind can take /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. Some of the older threads don't seem to work. I'm sure my searching DID NOT get all the related threads to hydraulic top link.

Hydraulic Top Link=HTL

Are there any benifits from having a longer or shorter HTL? Seem a shorter HTL would be better

Over all lenght->If a cylinder is shorter retracted position than it will also be shorter in the extended position?

For the posters who use a cat II HTL on a cat I tractor, what do you do with the reducer bushings? Most of my implements have a hole for both cat II and cat I. So I could get a new pin for cat II and just use a bushing on the tractor side of the HTL. I also notice the cat II holes sit behind the cat I hole. So if I go this route then a longer cylinder would be better?

Where is the best place to buy? Most of the searched threads I found are older. I didn't know if there are any new places. I remember reading Midwest is working on a prototype? I would rather buy a HTL rather than making it. But I have the tools and skills to do it. I just would like to avoid the hassel provided it is cost effective /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

I do have remotes already installed in my tractor.

Hoses are not a problem. The part store here make many hoses for the farmers and construction crews. They may even let me make them myself.

Any other advise for the HTL?

Thanks for your help.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 22, 2003

Rowski,
Jay Peak? Know any Luciers up there?? My gggrandfathers' old farm faces the peak. What I would give to get back up north.
Regarding htl; Prince makes a catII top link cylinder. I don't know how to post a link but just punch in Prince Direct.
I emailed them about a catI top link cylinder. They were back the next day and said they didn't presently make one but quoted me a good price on a weld end cylinder. Fastest response I've seen from a mfr.
Hope this helps.
DaveL

Rowski · Apr 22, 2003

The east or west side of Jay Peak? I do know some lussiers.

I've looked a Prince quickly with the cat II HTL. Haven't looked at the welded cylinders yet.

DocHeb · Apr 23, 2003

( Where is the best place to buy? )

Green Manufacturing makes a Category II hydraulic top cylinder that they sell for ~$100, including shipping. They will also make any other size you desire - but at a much higher price.

Rowski · Apr 23, 2003

( ...they sell for ~$100, including shipping. )

Sounds pretty reasonable.

Thanks

Anonymous Poster · Apr 24, 2003

Rowski,
Southeast, I guess, just a mile or so up the road from the Jay town office. We were up last September and stayed in North Troy. Just about bought 15 acres but the article 250 restrictions made it too expensive to build on. One of these days..................................
DaveL

Rowski · Apr 24, 2003

Small world! Let me know next time when you come up. Lots of stuff for sale in Montgomery area (othe side of the mountain). All the Canadians' are pulling out.

Rowski · Apr 24, 2003

Another question....

Is the bore what the fluid is acting on inside the cylinder?

Anonymous Poster · Apr 24, 2003

I purchased the Green Mfg. Cat 2 top link several months ago and the price was $138.00 plus shipping. It is still a good deal and the unit is built well. Spend the extra on right angle swivels for your hydraulic connections. The hydraulic lines really bend and shift when using the cylinder.

DFB · Apr 24, 2003

Derek,

The inside dia. of the cylinder tube is the bore. See the attachment. The outer diameter of the cylinder will be larger.

The Green cylinder certainly has a good purchase price provided the overall dia. along with the compressed and extended dimensions will work for you. Seems to be similar in size to the Prince HTL. Some have spent considerably more for HTL cylinders to get an overall shorter length that more closely matched up to their original toplink's compressed length . +/- an inch or so should work ok.

I have a Tisco HTL cylinder for my JD 4100. About $185.00 delivered. Meets my needs well. Overall closed length dimensions are very similar to the original topink. It has a 2" bore. The OD on the cylinder is 2 3/8". There is a crossbrace between the fenders on the JD. This leaves only a 1/2" of clearance between the bar and the cylinder when the lift arms are raised. A larger dia. cylinder obviously would hit the bar in the full up position, limiting upward travel. More info on that cylinder can be found here.

The cat. 2 Chief cylinders from Baileynet.com are 2.5" bore. One is a tierod cylinder, the other is a welded cylinder. Overall closed lengths on both are longer though.

DFB

TBone · Apr 24, 2003

DFB,

I have been looking at cylinders for a while now trying to decide whether to build my own HTL or buy one already made. After seeing the one from Green Manufacturing I am considering ordering one of those ($138. plus $11.25 shipping).

I do quite a bit of welding but when it comes to welding on a hydraulic cylinder you run the risk of burning out a seal plus you have to really know what you are doing when welding something as hard as the cylinder rod. Otherwise you run the risk of a weld failure and a possible tragedy.

Since I am still in the deciding stage can you tell me which is better, a welded cylinder or a tierod cylinder? The tierod looks stronger but the welded ones are a little more expensive, comparatively speaking. Which is stronger?

TBone

DFB · Apr 24, 2003

Tbone,

Generally speaking welded cylinders are stronger, they're usually used more for higher pressure applications. Tie rod cylinders are usually a more economical choice for medium duty applications. A lot depends on how well they're constructed too, like psi rating and wall thickness. Tie rod cylinders are definitely hefty looking. Heavy too /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

DFB

HayDR · Apr 25, 2003

This has the safety valve with double pilots

TBone · Apr 25, 2003

Thanks for the info DFB. I ordered the HTL from Green Mfgt. yesterday (it was a welded cylinder). That's the best deal I have seen anywhere - I'm looking forward to using it.

I've got to pick up a couple of bushings to reduce it to a Cat. 1 but the other dimensions should be fine.

TBone

bphillips · Apr 25, 2003

Hey CCI,

Would love to see some more infor on the pictured cylinder. I have a NH TC 29D.

TIA

Brad in NH

Rowski · Apr 25, 2003

TBone

Is your M4900 a cat II or a cat I?

The ears on the swivel end for cat I is 1 3/4" cat II is 2". Cat I tractor you can use a cat II HTL with reducer bushings but one would need to grind down the ears 1/4" (1/8 on each side of each ear) to fit cat I tractors and implements. I'm not sure if this is true for all tractotrs. On mine I would have to grind the ear that mounts to the tractor and use a bushing. On the inplements I would not need a bushing becasue I would use a cat II pin in the cat II hole. All my implements have holes for both cat I and cat II.

Rowski · Apr 25, 2003

A toplink in its retacted position, is it better to have a shorter or longer?

John_Mc · Apr 25, 2003

( A toplink in its retacted position, is it better to have a shorter or longer? )

Not sure I follow your question exactly. In general, you should shoot for a hydraulic toplink with a range of length adjustment that matches your existing manual toplink (unless you have length problems with your existing link?)

If your HTL retracts shorter than your existling TL, that's not a problem, as long as you are not sacrificing any length on the extended end of the toplink range that you need to operate your implements.

When I bought my HTL, it had a range of something like 18"-26". I needed 15-23". fortunately, there was a bracket made of flat stock going from the base of the cylinder to the "eye". I cut most of this off and welded the eye back on to the base to shorten it up to the correct length. (If I'm not describing this well, let me know and I'll take another crack at it, and maybe dig up some pictures.)

John Mc

Rowski · Apr 26, 2003

John

My top link is 19 1/2" closed or retracted. I didn't measure the extended lenght. But is seems most of the others have around 6" to 8" travel on a manual top link. There aslo is the saftey factor on keeping enough threads threaded into the sleeve so it doesn't pull apart. Seems most the of the HTL are around 10". I have never had to have my top link at full length yet. That i sjust using a chipper, blade and rake. I have how ever had my top link shortened all the way up a few times to get my blade higher of the ground.

I have "given up" making my own HTL from just a plain cylinder. I'm most likely going to get the HTL from CCI with the double pilot check valve for $170. CCI says that they have two lengths 18"-26" and 21'-32". The question is which one. I fall right between the two with my 19 1/2". I also am still interested in a cat II HTL. But can't find one with the double pilot check valve on it. I'm probably make more of a deal out of this than it needs to be /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. I just want to be happy with my choice.

BTW, you explained it well, better than I can /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.

gordon · Apr 26, 2003

From what you describe go with the shorter of the two top links that is offered From CCI. You can always add an inch to it down the road if need be. But depending on how the eyes are welded on it might be impossible to cut an inch off the longer of the two top links.

I've got a question---what is with the double pilot check valve? What is it for and why is it needed?

On my gannon there is no double pilot check that I'm aware of.

Gordon