Hydraulic top link questions

[TBone]

DFB,

I have been looking at cylinders for a while now trying to decide whether to build my own HTL or buy one already made. After seeing the one from Green Manufacturing I am considering ordering one of those ($138. plus $11.25 shipping).

I do quite a bit of welding but when it comes to welding on a hydraulic cylinder you run the risk of burning out a seal plus you have to really know what you are doing when welding something as hard as the cylinder rod. Otherwise you run the risk of a weld failure and a possible tragedy.

Since I am still in the deciding stage can you tell me which is better, a welded cylinder or a tierod cylinder? The tierod looks stronger but the welded ones are a little more expensive, comparatively speaking. Which is stronger?

TBone

 

[DFB]

Tbone,

Generally speaking welded cylinders are stronger, they're usually used more for higher pressure applications. Tie rod cylinders are usually a more economical choice for medium duty applications. A lot depends on how well they're constructed too, like psi rating and wall thickness. Tie rod cylinders are definitely hefty looking. Heavy too /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

DFB

 

[HayDR]

This has the safety valve with double pilots

 

[TBone]

Thanks for the info DFB. I ordered the HTL from Green Mfgt. yesterday (it was a welded cylinder). That's the best deal I have seen anywhere - I'm looking forward to using it.

I've got to pick up a couple of bushings to reduce it to a Cat. 1 but the other dimensions should be fine.

TBone

 

[bphillips]

Hey CCI,

Would love to see some more infor on the pictured cylinder. I have a NH TC 29D.

TIA

Brad in NH

 

[Rowski]

TBone

Is your M4900 a cat II or a cat I?

The ears on the swivel end for cat I is 1 3/4" cat II is 2". Cat I tractor you can use a cat II HTL with reducer bushings but one would need to grind down the ears 1/4" (1/8 on each side of each ear) to fit cat I tractors and implements. I'm not sure if this is true for all tractotrs. On mine I would have to grind the ear that mounts to the tractor and use a bushing. On the inplements I would not need a bushing becasue I would use a cat II pin in the cat II hole. All my implements have holes for both cat I and cat II.

 

[Rowski]

A toplink in its retacted position, is it better to have a shorter or longer?

 

[John_Mc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A toplink in its retacted position, is it better to have a shorter or longer? )</font>

Not sure I follow your question exactly. In general, you should shoot for a hydraulic toplink with a range of length adjustment that matches your existing manual toplink (unless you have length problems with your existing link?)

If your HTL retracts shorter than your existling TL, that's not a problem, as long as you are not sacrificing any length on the extended end of the toplink range that you need to operate your implements.

When I bought my HTL, it had a range of something like 18"-26". I needed 15-23". fortunately, there was a bracket made of flat stock going from the base of the cylinder to the "eye". I cut most of this off and welded the eye back on to the base to shorten it up to the correct length. (If I'm not describing this well, let me know and I'll take another crack at it, and maybe dig up some pictures.)

John Mc

 

[Rowski]

John

My top link is 19 1/2" closed or retracted. I didn't measure the extended lenght. But is seems most of the others have around 6" to 8" travel on a manual top link. There aslo is the saftey factor on keeping enough threads threaded into the sleeve so it doesn't pull apart. Seems most the of the HTL are around 10". I have never had to have my top link at full length yet. That i sjust using a chipper, blade and rake. I have how ever had my top link shortened all the way up a few times to get my blade higher of the ground.

I have "given up" making my own HTL from just a plain cylinder. I'm most likely going to get the HTL from CCI with the double pilot check valve for $170. CCI says that they have two lengths 18"-26" and 21'-32". The question is which one. I fall right between the two with my 19 1/2". I also am still interested in a cat II HTL. But can't find one with the double pilot check valve on it. I'm probably make more of a deal out of this than it needs to be /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. I just want to be happy with my choice.

BTW, you explained it well, better than I can /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.

 

[gordon]

From what you describe go with the shorter of the two top links that is offered From CCI. You can always add an inch to it down the road if need be. But depending on how the eyes are welded on it might be impossible to cut an inch off the longer of the two top links.

I've got a question---what is with the double pilot check valve? What is it for and why is it needed?

On my gannon there is no double pilot check that I'm aware of.

Gordon