hydraulic top link too short

[joes_427_vette]

My tc 45 d has tip and tilt. Up to now it was just fine til I hooked a 3 bottom 3 point plow to it. The top link was about 3 inches short to level the plow. I changed it with the manual link from my D-17 ac and it worked just fine. I always thought the ram looked a little short but it does work in most instances. Anyone else run into this situation?

 

[jinman]

My tc 45 d has tip and tilt. Up to now it was just fine til I hooked a 3 bottom 3 point plow to it. The top link was about 3 inches short to level the plow. I changed it with the manual link from my D-17 ac and it worked just fine. I always thought the ram looked a little short but it does work in most instances. Anyone else run into this situation?

What are your toplink cylinder's minimum and maximum length? If it's 18" to 26", it's very near to the factory manual toplink. That works good on my tractor. Do you have Pat's Easy Change system? Anything that adds length to the lower links will need extra length on the toplink. I can level a two bottom plow with my toplink about 1/2" extended, so I'm confused as to why you can't on your tractor too.

 

[Silver_Knight]

I know this is an old thread but i too have a hydraulic toplink that is too short since I have an I-Match on my 3720. Is there any solution other tan replacing the cylinder?

 

[kennyd]

I know this is an old thread but i too have a hydraulic toplink that is too short since I have an I-Match on my 3720. Is there any solution other tan replacing the cylinder?

You could weld (or have welded) tabs to the cylinder to extend the mounting position.

 

[Silver_Knight]

I thought about welding tabs on my implaments but not sure how it would work if I welded to the cylinder.

 

[jinman]

I thought about welding tabs on my implaments but not sure how it would work if I welded to the cylinder.

I've always thought it would be best to build a bracket you could attach to the tractor at the toplink hitch. That bracket would extend the toplink by 2" -4". That way, you do not have to change the hydraulic toplink and you do not have to make specific adapters for all implements. Anytime you need extra length, you would just add the adapter to the tractor and attach the toplink.

 

[AndyMA]

I've always thought it would be best to build a bracket you could attach to the tractor at the toplink hitch. That bracket would extend the toplink by 2" -4". That way, you do not have to change the hydraulic toplink and you do not have to make specific adapters for all implements. Anytime you need extra length, you would just add the adapter to the tractor and attach the toplink.

I think that would work well. almost like the Y shaped adapter that comes with many wuick hitches.

Andy

 

[kennyd]

Joe, What I meant was to extend the mounting tabs of the cylinder like the attached picture has. I hope this makes more sence then my first reply...

 

[jinman]

I think that would work well. almost like the Y shaped adapter that comes with many wuick hitches.

Andy

Andy, here is a crude sketch of what I have in mind. It's a back to back "U" shape with the tractor side having two holes to stabilize the bracket. I think most tractors have more than one toplink hole and the bracket would use both to keep it from flopping around. The outside bracket would just have one hole and take the HTL ball as normal with a single pin.

 

[blue pride not green envy]

There is a company in Nebraska called Gnuse Manufacturing that make hyd top links. If you are using a regular cylinder, you can extend it. The side that does not have the ram is the side to add an extension on. I believe they weld a very heavy duty bushing on to a solid square shaft. That bushing end is bolted on to the non ram end of the cylinder. The other end of the square shaft has a bushing welded on to it also. That end is held with a pin to the tractor. The square shaft that is used to connect the cylinder to the tractor has to be big enough to handle the load that you are going to give it. The bushings used are heavy duty also. When the bushings are welded to the shaft, one would be horizontal and one would be vertical. If you weld them wrong you will know when you go to hook it up. Also, make sure the bushings you use will have plenty of clearance on your tractor. For different applications you may need different lenght extensions for you cylinder. Factory usually sends two lengths of extension with the cylinder. I use one of these on my NH 8670 and onother one on my TV140. They work really well and are worth the money.