Hydraulic Top Link

[3RRL]

LOL...
Oh boy,now you've got Curly freaked.

 

[Dougster]

LOL...
Oh boy,now you've got Curly freaked.

Watch out for the knife Curly... Beware of the scream and the knife!!!

Dougster

 

[curly]

That is till he has it loaded up, does the paper work, and finds out he made a mistake. Then he calls you and tells you he can't sell it to you for less than he paid for it.

Just kidding Curly.

If he tries that he can keep this and I'll go get me a Piranha

 

[curly]

Well, he didn't exactly try that...but he did try to pawn off a different grapple that he just happened to have laying around...hmmm. Wonder why I never heard of that til now?

I've decided not to do any bidness with these fellers...they just ain't right at all

 

[civesnedfield]

Well, he didn't exactly try that...but he did try to pawn off a different grapple that he just happened to have laying around...hmmm. Wonder why I never heard of that til now?

I've decided not to do any bidness with these fellers...they just ain't right at all

Don't blame ya one bit. Fool me once..........................

 

[horse7]

To get slightly back on topic... dealer quoted me about 650 for a Gannon CAT2 hydraulic top link. Did not ask for the specs as that is pretty high compared to CCM (dealer has to eat too I guess).

So there is CCM, CAT2 roughly 300 with hoses.

Rolling my own from Surplus center, my question is: where does one get a double piloted check valve that is suitable? Offhand I don't see making my own as a viable option compared to CCM except that the cylinder is larger (heaviest use is a 1500lb Gannon box).

Finally, going all the way to a TnT I'll need more than my 2 rear remotes and there aren't any cheap options to add remotes (TnT plus hydraulic scarifiers-- in another thread someone told me the parts cost for a Fasse would run about 600, I asked and found that the NH parts would run about 700+ (900 installed for a 3rd)-- think that I'd go with NH for a 3rd, and Fasse for a 4th, 5th, 6th, ). Right now though I'll probably have to live with just the 2 remotes and use manual tilt.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

To get slightly back on topic... dealer quoted me about 650 for a Gannon CAT2 hydraulic top link. Did not ask for the specs as that is pretty high compared to CCM (dealer has to eat too I guess).

So there is CCM, CAT2 roughly 300 with hoses.

Rolling my own from Surplus center, my question is: where does one get a double piloted check valve that is suitable? Offhand I don't see making my own as a viable option compared to CCM except that the cylinder is larger (heaviest use is a 1500lb Gannon box).

Finally, going all the way to a TnT I'll need more than my 2 rear remotes and there aren't any cheap options to add remotes (TnT plus hydraulic scarifiers-- in another thread someone told me the parts cost for a Fasse would run about 600, I asked and found that the NH parts would run about 700+ (900 installed for a 3rd)-- think that I'd go with NH for a 3rd, and Fasse for a 4th, 5th, 6th, ). Right now though I'll probably have to live with just the 2 remotes and use manual tilt.

It is my experience that the check valve that a lot of people use here on TBN is not really required. I don't have any on my "tnt" and have not needed them. I think that maybe the smaller tractors don't have quite the same quality of control valves as the bigger tractors, but I don't really know for sure. I do know that I don't seem to have any drifting problems with my stuff. I recommend that you get 3" cylinders, it is not just the weight of the Gannon, but the impact that it will take while using it.

Good luck, which ever way that you go.

 

[LetsRoll]

It is my experience that the check valve that a lot of people use here on TBN is not really required. I don't have any on my "tnt" and have not needed them. I think that maybe the smaller tractors don't have quite the same quality of control valves as the bigger tractors, but I don't really know for sure. I do know that I don't seem to have any drifting problems with my stuff. I recommend that you get 3" cylinders, it is not just the weight of the Gannon, but the impact that it will take while using it.

Good luck, which ever way that you go.

Brian...what are your thoughts about using a 2.5" cylinder with 1.5" shaft? My hydraulic cylinder for the top link is coming in tomorrow from UPS. I'll see if I can find the link for the cylinder (surplus center is where I ordered my cylinder, hoses and fittings from). I saved over $100 ordering from surplus center.

Surplus Center Hydraulic Cylinder

Cliff

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian...what are your thoughts about using a 2.5" cylinder with 1.5" shaft? My hydraulic cylinder for the top link is coming in tomorrow from UPS. I'll see if I can find the link for the cylinder (surplus center is where I ordered my cylinder, hoses and fittings from). I saved over $100 ordering from surplus center.

Surplus Center Hydraulic Cylinder

Cliff

Cliff, I'm sure that you will be alright with that size. I'm sure that the 1 1/2" piston rod won't bend on you. You loose a little of your hydraulic strength because of the rod size, but you should be fine. Good luck with your setup, I know that I sure am with mine.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Ok I am jumping in here a bit late. One of the early questions was about finding the sweet spot to remove the top link pin. Would getting a valve with a float position help? If starting from scratch the vavles with float aren't that much more.