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KennedyDiesel

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Feb 21, 2005
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I'm adding a Farmi Skidding winch to my equipment and it sounds like adapting the Imatch will be difficult to impractical as the attach point is more or less right on top of the winch module.

So it looks like I'll be manual attach at least for now. This will also almost certainly require top link adjustment as well. I've always wanted a top and tilt setup, but my concern is drift/settling. With the mechanical setup I have none. I can get on the tractor and adjust my position control and go to work. I just need to change the length for some implements like my MX5.

So I guess a double piloted setup is what I should run. I was hoping to find something neat and tidy. Compact and clean with proper length hoses etc. Something like the Deere top n tilt only with the double piloted valves to prevent drifting.

Suggestions?


How is the Deere TnT as far as drift/settling?

Anyone using this with the electric diverter? If it's stable and drift free when the diverter is controlling the loader joystick that is all that I ask.


I should add that I already have the electric diverter so I have 4 remotes out back.
 
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I'm adding a Farmi Skidding winch to my equipment and it sounds like adapting the Imatch will be difficult to impractical as the attach point is more or less right on top of the winch module.

So it looks like I'll be manual attach at least for now. This will also almost certainly require top link adjustment as well. I've always wanted a top and tilt setup, but my concern is drift/settling. With the mechanical setup I have none. I can get on the tractor and adjust my position control and go to work. I just need to change the length for some implements like my MX5.

So I guess a double piloted setup is what I should run. I was hoping to find something neat and tidy. Compact and clean with proper length hoses etc. Something like the Deere top n tilt only with the double piloted valves to prevent drifting.

Suggestions?


How is the Deere TnT as far as drift/settling?

Anyone using this with the electric diverter? If it's stable and drift free when the diverter is controlling the loader joystick that is all that I ask.


I should add that I already have the electric diverter so I have 4 remotes out back.

For what its worth, I have the 3rd SCV and the JD top-link on my 3320. I have no drift that is noticeable on mine. My 3rd scv lever is spring loaded closed so I don't think it will allow any movement of pressure or flow when the lever is not in use. Oops, just saw that you have the electric diverter so my info is probably not much good to you.

HTH,
Mike

ps: Are you on the DieselPage?
 
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  • Thread Starter
#5  
Yeah I'm heading back around the CCM way it seems. The electric diverter was added at purchase (2006 model) with just this in mind. Being a business man I just would have thought that CCM would have taken some of teh more popular platforms and set up a kit or at least a general guide as to what fits say a 3x20 and 4x20 Deere etc. Any suggestions on optimal length for these? I'm the kind of guy that buys something like this then regrets not getting just a 1/2" longer or shorter as it's not quite perfect.

MikeyB Yes I am.

I actually could use the 3rd SCV, but I often use that for my Harley rake or grapple. The elec diverter would be for a simple positioning of the TNT and then switch back over.

I guess I'm being a bit lazy here plus I can't help but think there may be something more sleek or packaged out there.
 
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I guess I'm being a bit lazy here plus I can't help but think there may be something more sleek or packaged out there.

:confused: Just what are you looking for? You looking for the DPOCV to be hidden somewhere? :confused3:
 
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#8  
:confused: Just what are you looking for? You looking for the DPOCV to be hidden somewhere? :confused3:

It just looks a bit frail from the pics. Also not sure why the fitings come straight out of teh cylinder? Is there a valve in there as well? I would think a nice swept 90 would clean it up and saddle the valve block to the cylinder body.

I's hard to see from CCM's limited pic, but it looks like both hydraulic lines attach to the valve block?
 
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It just looks a bit frail from the pics. Also not sure why the fitings come straight out of teh cylinder? Is there a valve in there as well? I would think a nice swept 90 would clean it up and saddle the valve block to the cylinder body.

I's hard to see from CCM's limited pic, but it looks like both hydraulic lines attach to the valve block?

Yes, the hoses attach to the valve block-it's the block that give the cylinder the "holding" ability even if a hos fails. 90* fittings could certainly be used. I used 45* ones, here are some better pictures in my Picasa album: Picasa Web Albums - Ken - HTL
 
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#10  



Now they have some better pics:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/MorePhotos.asp?ITEM=9-7682-11

Clean looking units. The CCM do not look as nice, but it's hard to get any detail at all from their pics. With the SC ones I can see the banjo fittings etc. I think I'd like to turn the valve block 90ー and run a straight fitting out and up to my remotes. Again I would think some sort of saddle to tie the valve assy down securely would be a big plus.


Ports 3/8" BSPP ?
 
 
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