Hydraulic Top link

[KennedyDiesel]

I should add that I'll probably move this function off of the diverter and on to the 3rd SCV. I find myself needing the loader and top link repeatedly and forget to switch the function a lot.

My rear blade is cat 1 and 2 combined and a bit tall for my tractor. When moving snow I now use the top link top raise and lower the blade rather than the rockshaft. Eventually I may make some secondary mounts and get a lower bite, but for now it's handy to get my clearance with the top link.

 

[foggy1111]

I should add that I'll probably move this function off of the diverter and on to the 3rd SCV. I find myself needing the loader and top link repeatedly and forget to switch the function a lot.

My rear blade is cat 1 and 2 combined and a bit tall for my tractor. When moving snow I now use the top link top raise and lower the blade rather than the rockshaft. Eventually I may make some secondary mounts and get a lower bite, but for now it's handy to get my clearance with the top link.

This would all be so much easier to envision.....if we had a PICTURE! :laughing:

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I suppose now I'll have to take a picture, but first I'd need to wash the darn thing.


Anyhow, my double piloted check valves have quit. Top link drifts relatively quickly making Harley Rake work a pain. I don't hear the "click" any more. It could be from bouncing with a load on teh 3 pt I don't know.

So, haveing never seen a double piloted check valve in action is this something that might be serviceable?

 

[HayDR]

Does the hyd. toplink always drift in the same direction?

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Boy I couldn't tell you it's always extending naturally. I never tried to see if it collapses as there are far less scenarios that would put closing force on the link.

I suppose a floor jack under a 3 point blade would suffice, but would only apply force for minimal travel.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Drift appears to be in both directions. Extension faster than compression, but the compression force is much less and much harder to detect/meaure.

I'll put the Harley Rake back on soon and retest. I can fully extend thetop link so that teh wheels are on the ground and the drum hanging. It did seem to settle, but I forgot to measure the top link as a bale stacking project came up so I jumped on, retratced, lifted and went to it.

I must say the drift is quite quick and it absolutely sucks for Harley Raking or brush hogging where top link position can be critical...

 

[Mechanos]

For those that have to have (or need to have) everything.... you could always do some custom plumbing and install bypass valves around the DPOCVs. Then you could use float features by bypassing the check valves or lock the cylinder in place with the check valves for other purposes. Where there's a will, there's a way.

 

[Glen Watkins]

I read through this thread and am kind of confused I thought the idea of this type of top-link was the check valves built in to the cylinder are supposed to hold position? I am considering adding a htl for certain spots that i mow where I back over edges and want a tight top link and other times it needs to float. I would run it off of a third scv. I am also trying to determine the correct one for my 4320.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I read through this thread and am kind of confused I thought the idea of this type of top-link was the check valves built in to the cylinder are supposed to hold position? I am considering adding a htl for certain spots that i mow where I back over edges and want a tight top link and other times it needs to float. I would run it off of a third scv. I am also trying to determine the correct one for my 4320.

You will not find what you are looking for. Either it has the DPOCV and is locked in place or you get a HTL without the check valve so that you are able to use the float mode when you want-need it. The HTL with the DPOCV talked about in this thread that is allowing the cylinder to move has a faulty check valve. Remember though that if his actual spool valve was good, his movement would be minimal. His spool valve seals most likely need to be replaced.

I usually recommend a top link with a working length of 19"-29" for your size tractor. Sometimes a person needs a different length and we can usually accommodate their needs, but most of the time 19"-29" works best. Glen, the HTL that I recommend for your size tractor is a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod. It would cost you $200 + shipping with a hose kit with 1/2" male AG quick disconnects costing another $40 + shipping. If you are interested, let me know.

 

[Glen Watkins]

Thanks for the info Brian I will keep you in mind if i decide to get one. I think my oem top link measures just a hair over 18". Would I be able to get a htl that shortens to 18"?