Hydraulic Winch installation Kubota L2950

Leejohn · Oct 2, 2011

I just blew up the hook up for the rear aux. couplers and it hooks up right next and under the decent knob. Right where the small round cover is. It takes this connector 99063-93300 to hook the lines into. It was right in front of us all the time.

cytafex · Oct 3, 2011

I don't think a relief valve is on the winch and is included in kit to connect winch to a power steering pump. The plan is to attach the winch with quick disconnects mounted on hitch I have to skid trees with on 3ph. Then I can can take it off too attach a rear blade (I don't have one yet) for snow removal on 3ph. Anyone have any idea what the plug is for in #7?

cytafex · Oct 3, 2011

Just found out part #99063-93300 is $276. Is it made out of gold? Leejohn, where does the part connect on #7?

slowzuki · Oct 3, 2011

A milemaker winch is normal designed to fit inline between a trucks ps pump and the steering box. It is open centre with solenoid operated spools to put the motor into the circuit. I believe the psi rating is so the gears in the winch aren't destroyed.

It should not be used in the power beyond circuit directly as the relief is too high and the flow too great for the port size. An open centre motor spool in the pb cirucit with detent and adjustable relief would work but you also will need to remember to keep the engine rpm down while operating and you will have to hit the solenoid for the direction you want too.

There is information about modifiying the valve block to decrease the friction loss in a mm winch on some of the off-roading sites. YOu can also replace it with a larger manual valve block that could stay in the pb circuit or be plugged in like a back hoe.

Leejohn · Oct 3, 2011

Yes, picture #7 right next to that open & close valve. Did you get your parts manual coming? It's real easy to see then. when you get it go to the aux. control valve and blow it up.
You could look under the round cover with 2 bolts holding it and see if there are 2 holes and 1 oring. The new part well have 2 orings 2 holes in on one and 2 holes out on the other end. The allen head plug it shows is for them to drill the block, I would guess. That block must be kind of thick.
I would not pay $276 for it if you have a way to make it. If you get the parts manual blow it up about to 150% and you can see how it's made. If you can bring your hoses on the left side of knob all you might have to make a plate with the holes going stright thru and just tab one side, and it would not have to be so thick. Then use 90 deg. fitting to hook the hoses to.
I can't find a way to just send 1 page from the pdf. file. It must be because I only have adobe reader and the file is to big to upload on TBN.

cytafex · Oct 5, 2011

Again, thank you all for the info.Yesterday I unscrewed the 2 bolts to the right of the open close valve in photo #7. There are 2 holes coming up through the banjo part of the connection. The cover plate connects the 2 holes together via a passage that is also connected to the allen head plug. I called Messick's yesterday and talked with parts first and Matt told me I needed rear remotes and connected me with sales. The salesman thought I didn't need a set of remotes and back to parts with a quote of $277.83 for part #99063-93300. Talk about being screwed. As I don't have any plans for rear attachments with hydraulic capabilities except for the winch I can't rationalize the expense of remotes. Not sure I can justify $277 for a plate with 2 holes tapped in either just on principal, but sometimes principal is not the bottom line. Mean while the wood is up in the woods and Fall is here and going to need to fire up the wood stove. Maybe back to looking for another place to tap in to hydraulics? or just pay the fiddler so we can get er done? The solution seems so close yet so far because of my shoestring budget!

slowzuki · Oct 5, 2011

Do you have a quick disconnect loader? You could unplug your curl cylinders and use the curl circuit quick connects to start from.

Leejohn · Oct 5, 2011

Like I said before I would not pay that much eather.. Also like I said, if you can run your hoes on the left side that plate is not hard to make. The hardest part would be cutting the face for the orings to set in. You should be able to get it done for 50 to $75.00. If you can get a back facing tool you could to it all yourself. Only one side has to be nice and flat and that could be done with a stone. now your down to about $10.00.

cytafex · Oct 16, 2011

On going winch saga as I ordered 12 volt solenoids as the winch came equipped 24 volt. $130 later from Summit racing and discovered upon replacing solenoids that apparently during shipping the shaft that solenoids mount on got bent. Found out can't repair or replace the bent parts and have to replace the whole valve assembly for $185. Worked out ok as I'm sending the solenoids back for refund and the person I bought the winch from (eBay deal) gave me refund for $185 so actually turned out costing less as the 12 volt solenoids come with the valve assembly. Still trying to decide if I'm going to fork over the bucks for connector 99063-93300 or attach from FEL connections. I noticed is plug which is labeled OUT on FEL block. Could I use this for supply line for my winch?

cytafex · Dec 16, 2011

have been skidding logs out of the woods that I can reach with chains and tow straps and is getting to the point where I need to get the winch going. Where I'm hauling the logs is neither flat nor open and fairly wet. Thinking it would be better to keep the plumbing as simple as possible with less things to get snagged, so think I'm going to swallow my pride and pay the fiddler for the Kubota rear block and be done with it. Can't heat the house with principal. Thanks to all for advice and help so far. I did get the winch attached to the 3 point hitch I have and have a shelf on top to haul chainsaw and tools for trees. Logging is fun if not safe, but that's part of t he adventure and getting work done at the same time.