Hydraulics for beginners

[WranglerX]

My SCUT came with Front End Loader (FEL) and there is simple kits (3rd function) to add grapple if I want to.... But what I really wish it had was POWER BEYOND (PB) so I could run a log splitter or some other thing like control for hydraulic blade or what ever off back end of tractor... If I had to do it over if the was no PB on rear I would look for something else.... But the above comment about "what are you intensions with tractor" is more important than theoretical's on how hydraulics are equipped...

IF you are just going to do a one time fence job, rent an auger for a day or two.... Most specialty attachments seem to set there for several years between use and when you go to use it its dead and you need to spend hours bringing it back to life.... If you can not see daily or weekly or monthly use of a implement you may be better off by passing it...

What I found when I got my tractor there was a whole host of thing the made tractor use easier to use then a few big implements, like grab handle for climbing on board instead of pulling on steering wheel, small tool box behind seat, front shackle mount on chassis for chaining up and dragging really big things, chain slot/hooks on bucket to keep "things" in bucket, rear ballast box to balance tractor against extremely heavy loads in FEL, and wheel spacers to widen rear track for more stability on the off level ground...The big implements will become known by the "need" as you work more with tractor... Don't be in big rush to spend a lot of money...

 

[jjp8182]

As was previously noted identify what you need to do is the first step and then identifying the implements that could work to do the tasks.

The Messicks and Tractor Mike youtube channels contain some pretty good information regarding what features on the tractor may make sense to buy up front and what may add additional costs if/when added after the initial purchase.

When it comes to rear-remotes the most that could potentially be needed (that I've seen) would occur with rear blades that are equipped with gauge wheels and hydraulic cylinders for all functions which ends up being:
1) blade angle
2) blade tilt
3) blade offset
4) gauge wheel control

add in a top & tilt kit
5) tilt function
6) top cylinder control

...and that results in (potentially) 6 different functions that would need to be controlled.

A close second would be fully-hydraulic actuated landscape rake (wouldn't have the blade tilt function).

Though whatever the implement, 3 rear-remotes (which tends to be the highest number found on compact tractors) makes sense for a tractor when a top & tilt kit is added.

A 3rd function on the loader should almost be standard at this point since grapples have become so common. While they aren't always needed a grapple can drastically speed up doing some chores (e.g. brush clean up).

Personally I'm of the opinion that additional hydraulics can not only speed up performing certain activities, but if the tasks being done are being done in a hot (or humid) environment or involve moving several hundred pounds of material then the use of hydraulics on machines can also make things safer.

There's been more than a few tree/debris clean up tasks I've had on my own property where having to perform the task would have either take days longer (to be safe) or resulted in heatstroke had I not had a tractor with a grapple which allowed me to get done in under an hour.

Likewise a hydraulic top-link has drastically reduced the amount of time needed to perform some tasks (particularly when using a box blade or disk harrow).

 

[lennyzx11]

I put 4 on mine. Because a deal was available on a 4 spool valve with power beyond that could be had at same price as a 3 spool valve. So one more set of lines and couplers was the only added cost.

My theory at the time was
1. Top link
2. Tilt link
3. Angle box blade, landscape rake, etc.
4. I converted (easy) from a detent to constant flow in order to control a hydraulic motor type of circuit or something that had its own separate controls and needed a constant supply like a three point wood splitter or a winch.

The same thing could be done with a bungee cord though.
I wanted the capability to control the setting and a bungee cord is only on or off.

This one can be used as normal just have to return to center manually rather than spring centered like normal.
It was planned for hydraulic motors like on a phd, conveyor, flail mower, tiller, or running something on the FEL with a longer set of hoses that the diverter valve installed couldn’t run like a pole saw. Something that may run longer times but you don’t want to sit there and hold the handle.

It’s other use would be offset sideways or extension control like pushing gauge wheels back when the other three remotes were used up.

 

[Anakist]

Flow is more about capacity. The more flow, the more ability a hydraulic system should have to lift/dig/push. This is what I think I know. Please correct any misunderstandings.

Flow and pressure and related in quite a complex manner. But to keep to your garden hose analogy, more flow is like having the fancy 3/4" garden hose instead of the standard 1/2" stuff. The stream of water coming out the end still travels 3 feet from where you're standing but you have more gallons per minute (same pressure at higher flow).

Or you can have twice the length of hose and still fill a bucket in a minute (same flow at higher pressure).

As to remotes. My tractor has none. I kind of want some, but not enough to pay the hundreds of dollars for the parts and never use them because I use PTO driven attachments, or unpowered ones. I am sure if I bought a new tractor with a bunch of remotes I could find something for them to be used on though.

James

 

[old and tired]

Only other thing I'll add is that the spools/valves are the tip of the iceberg (in terms of costs) Add in the hydraulic top link, side link and a grapple and you'll have a very capable tractor that can do lots of things with ease.

 

[Williy]

We have 8 aches. I wanted a tractor with a cab as when I cut the grass on the small riding lawn mower was covered
in dust, and bugs. Need a tiller so now have one that attaches to the back of the tractor. I ordered the tractor with a cab a/c & heat, backhoe & bucket. Also ordered a brush hog so will not have a problem cutting small branches that happen to fall on the ground. The back hoe is used to remove cedar trees and misquites and removeing the stumps. If you have the money check the Yanmar YT235C for the confort and ease of use and all controls are at your finger tips I believe you will really enjoy owning one. Now make sure you test drive many different tractors so you can get the feel of what will suite you. Every body has their favorite tractor and some tractors are prone to have problems but the manufactures usually have the problems worked out. Usually what happens is their tractors are great wouldn't trade for any thing else then something brakes and they have a problem then they have the worst tractor made its junk and a lot of the problems are caused by little or no maintenance! So if you buy a tractor you want to have a manual so you can check for all the grease fittings and what needs to to checked for loose bolts etc. You are going to spend some bucks for what you get so you want to take care of it and make it last!

willy