Hydraulics Question

[Va Mike]

I purchased an "OLD" TLB about six month back. The guy said be prepared to use it an hour work on it for two. Well, he may not have been far off the mark. This tractor was for weekend use around the property and it seems to be that it has become another chore around the property on weekends.

This thing is giving me a run for my money. I have replaced half the cylinders. After re-wiring it and tuning it up, new guages, and an exhaust system, I am actually able to get some seat time.

While using it today, sitting on a stadium cushion ( I haven't replaced the seats yet) I noticed the hydraulic reserve tank was very warm (HOT). I got down to take a break and noticed several of the cylinders were warm also.

I thought I read somewhere this was indicative of something????????
Is this normal?????? I just want to be sure that I am not getting ready for another situation........

Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Mike

 

[Soundguy]

Pressurized fluid gets hot...got a oil cooler in the low pressure line?

Soundguy

 

[tractorsanmore]

Does it have a oil cooler in front of radiator , is it clean ? Is hyd tank full with all cylinder retracted ? And has the hyd filter been changed lately , and is it the right one

 

[john_bud]

Normal hydraulic fluid operating temperature is in the 160F range. On a hot day, dirty cooler etc it can set at 180F. Working it hard, even on a hot day shouldn't get it over 200F.

Old machines have the wierdest things removed. If it doesn't have a cooler, get one. The largest one that will fit in the space. With the flow equal to or greater than the max pump flow.


There is a "bad" thing that can cause the fluid to heat up. A stuck partially open pressure relief valve will have the fluid going across a small opening. That will heat it up -- a lot. Also, if the cylinder packing is bad, fluid bypassing the packing will heat up.

In reading your post, you stated that you "replaced" 1/2 of the cylinders. Did you mean you had them repacked with new seals (at about $50-100 each) or did you really put in new ones?

jb

 

[Va Mike]

Gentlemen,
Thank you for your responses.
I figured it would get warm during use but this was HOT.

I do not know if it has an oil cooler will look in the AM

The cylinders were not just re-packed
I tried that, I had 2 shops tell me they couldn't be repaired.
(That was in Northern Va. should of known better)
I ended up taking them to a guy in Baltimore who shipped parts of them to PA.. The cylinders are the same, I guess he bores them or something (the N.Va guy said they were shot, too many deep ridges). I had new shafts and packing and seals. (Is there anyone out there in the N. Va area that can recommend a good hydraulic shop?) These cylinder rebuilds are costing me $300. with the shaft that may not be that bad..........
However, I hate that I have to go to Baltimore.

I do still have a couple small leaks. The hydraulic tank is in back of the driver seat with no indicator. I added 5 gallons of fluid when I finally got it home then noticed I had one more cylinder bad ...........
I have a shop manual(with part# and such but no ownwers manual)
How much Hydraulic fluid do these things hold?

The hydraulics seem to work OK, the reserve tank just seemed to get hot.
As far as the fluid change, the way it was running out of this machine when I bought it; it had to be new. The fluid I put in was some High Dollar stuff IH sells. I now need to go get more.

She is a work in progress, there are still many things I learn about this tractor everyday.

I will check on the cooler, Thanks for your help

 

[tlbuser]

I tried that, I had 2 shops tell me they couldn't be repaired.
(That was in Northern Va. should of known better)

(Is there anyone out there in the N. Va area that can recommend a good hydraulic shop?) These cylinder rebuilds are costing me $300. with the shaft that may not be that bad..........
However, I hate that I have to go to Baltimore.

I will check on the cooler, Thanks for your help

Not a bunch closer but,

Hydraulics Unlimited Inc
193 W Hampton Ave, Capitol Heights, MD 20743
(301) 336-4436

Full service, on and off vehicle hydraulic shop.
And unless the shaft is severely bent, they can fix it! Otherwise, they keep new "shaft stock" on hand. Usually repaired while you wait. A couple of times I was apologized to for not being able to get my parts back before lunch-time And yes, they have been extremely reasonable on pricing. One shop quoted me $400.00 to fix a cylinder (new shaft, seals, bearings) these guys reapired the shaft, new seals and bearings, their bill was a whopping $60.00.

Just around the corner from them is just a hose and fittings shop, Colloflower (sp.)

 

[Soundguy]

Untill you get the leaks stopped.. why not use wallymart cheapy utf.. call it a 'flush' while you are getting everything in order.

Soundguy

Gentlemen,
Thank you for your responses.
I figured it would get warm during use but this was HOT.

I do not know if it has an oil cooler will look in the AM

The cylinders were not just re-packed
I tried that, I had 2 shops tell me they couldn't be repaired.
(That was in Northern Va. should of known better)
I ended up taking them to a guy in Baltimore who shipped parts of them to PA.. The cylinders are the same, I guess he bores them or something (the N.Va guy said they were shot, too many deep ridges). I had new shafts and packing and seals. (Is there anyone out there in the N. Va area that can recommend a good hydraulic shop?) These cylinder rebuilds are costing me $300. with the shaft that may not be that bad..........
However, I hate that I have to go to Baltimore.

I do still have a couple small leaks. The hydraulic tank is in back of the driver seat with no indicator. I added 5 gallons of fluid when I finally got it home then noticed I had one more cylinder bad ...........
I have a shop manual(with part# and such but no ownwers manual)
How much Hydraulic fluid do these things hold?

The hydraulics seem to work OK, the reserve tank just seemed to get hot.
As far as the fluid change, the way it was running out of this machine when I bought it; it had to be new. The fluid I put in was some High Dollar stuff IH sells. I now need to go get more.

She is a work in progress, there are still many things I learn about this tractor everyday.

I will check on the cooler, Thanks for your help

 

[john_bud]

{snip}

The cylinders were not just re-packed I tried that, I had 2 shops tell me they couldn't be repaired.

Cough cough {Bull Snit} Cough cough!

Oh well, live and learn. You really don't need perfect cylinders, just ones that won't gush. Next time, post and ask for input on where to get parts for DIY hydraulic repair. Here's some of my favorites.

H&D Distributors, Inc. Your Complete Source for Seals This place has a GREAT catalog you download. 10 meg, but even with dial up, it's a must do. They have a line of Vee packing that is designed for 0.020 oversize bores. A quick and cheap solution - you have the cylinder bored 0.020 oversize and use larger packings. A set of Vee's, seals and o-rings is on the order of 20-50 bucks. Can be more it it is a rare size. Baum also has a good catalog, but it's paper. Call for one. Baum Hydraulics Corporation They have pre-assembled repair kits for most hydraulic cylinders. Both lift cylinders on my Ford loader was under 45 bucks. That's the price for the pair.

There are also places that sell pre-chromed rod (by the inch length). But, most decent welding shops and machine shops can quickly get you a new rod.

Hydraulic cylinder components, honed tubing, rod, fittings


Hydraulics are easy to repair, I really don't know why some shops have such high prices!

jb

 

[Va Mike]

Thanks again for all the great info .......

I guess I need to just go to a dealer and see if I can find just a couple more particulars about this machine.

I did go to the cheap Hydraulic fluid, no Wally World's around here,,
but advance had some MAG 1 fluid that said it met the spec and was half the price.

I didn't find a cooler by the radiator, I will look into getting one.

As for the hydraulic shop .....
The guy that did my repair told me the same thing. It doesn't have to be perfectly smooth, just needs good seals. When the shop had returned it to me and said it couldn't be repaired, they left it apart........ And your right, it didn't seem like it would be all that difficult to repair.

I used the machine Wed. Thurs. and Fri. and will the exception of 2 minor issues ,,,,, she pretty much ran like a top.
I spent about 3 hours today running around looking for a suction line for the hydaulic tank. She had been leaking so I cut the hose back. Then it had a blow out (in) in another location. I went to 2 tractor dealers who each sent me to NAPA, the biggest line they carry is a 1 1/4 inch. The hose I have 1 3/4....... I can't win..........

Anyway I have had alot of fun moving a bunch of cut trees and big piles of dirt . I even got to dig a BIG fire pit......

Thanks again for all the info
Mike

 

[diyDave]

If you are looking for someone to make you a hose, or need a fitting, try Colliflower. I think they are national in scope, probably have a location near you. Not the cheapest, but they do good work