Hydraulics Requirement for Grader/Box Scraper

[threepiece]

Fellows, I plan to add three rear remotes to my tractor specifically for a box scraper. Two remotes will control the top and tilt on the tractor, one remote for the cylinder on the scraper that controls the scarifier depth.

 

[threepiece]

I am interested in opinions on the configurations of the valves. I have the option of float. Do you think it is needed for any of the remotes? Is there any other considerations to adding remotes specifically for the grader box.

Thanks for any help.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Rear remotes are essential. I've never really needed more than two on a small tractor, unless I was trying to divert one up front to replace a 3rd function on a FEL.

Using 3 remotes to control a box scraper, including one to run the scarifiers up and down, seems crazy to me.

Edit -- I should add -- I usually just adjust the angle of attack and tilt using the hitch and then tweak the depth of cut using the lift lever as I go. I've almost never use the scarifiers and have only adjusted / changed the settings on mine a couple times in 20+ years. It just seems overkill to have the scarifiers on a remote. (How would that even work?)

Obviously, your setup is much more sophisticated and precise than anything I've ever used on my box blades or land planes.

 

[oldnslo]

Float is nice for tilt feature if you are wanting the attachment to follow the contour of the ground.

 

[old and tired]

When I added remotes for Top and tilt hydraulics, I mounted 3 spools (thought long and hard for 4 but $$$ you got to stop somewhere). So, 2 for top-N-tilt and the third I used for a grapple. IF I needed another one, I could unhook the grapple and route it to the rear if needed... which has never been needed.

So, Float... I don't think it's needed, in fact, My top link and side link both have a double action whateveryou call it valve... so float will not work in my case (personally, I like to set it and forget it).

Most valves will leak down over time, I like double acting pilot valve (looked it up) to keep things in place until I need to move them.

I don't have a problem setting the scarifiers at depth, when I need them. I don't need to fine tune them. Up out of the way or fully down and locked. Depends on if this is a job you want to do a lot of or one time use to build a road to the creek.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am interested in opinions on the configurations of the valves. I have the option of float. Do you think it is needed for any of the remotes? Is there any other considerations to adding remotes specifically for the grader box.

Thanks for any help.

I always provide the float feature with 2 of the valves when I sell valve sets. There are certain tasks that simply benefit from using the float feature for both the top link and side link.
If for any reason you might end up with an implement that has a hydraulic function, then you should get the 3rd rear remote valve as a just in case feature.

It is not a big expense and it is always better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. Now with your 110, it has the slot & guide float feature with the lower clevis, so this pretty much removes the need for the float feature for the side link as long as your top & tilt set still has this feature.

Good luck with your research.

 

[threepiece]

To add, I already have a top and tilt kit and a Frontier box grader. Both were original equipment sold by John Deere for the 110 TLB. The box grader has a cylinder that controls the scarifier depth. So, I will need three remotes. I was just wondering how helpful the float feature would be for any of the three as I have never used such a set-up. I have some experience with a plain box scraper on my smaller Kubota, no rear hydraulics on that one.

 

[threepiece]

Now with your 110, it has the slot & guide float feature with the lower clevis, so this pretty much removes the need for the float feature for the side link as long as your top & tilt set still has this feature.

Good luck with your research.

I have not seen this feature before and I don’t know if mine does have it. It is JD original equipment. I will have a look when I get back to the shop.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

To add, I already have a top and tilt kit and a Frontier box grader. Both were original equipment sold by John Deere for the 110 TLB. The box grader has a cylinder that controls the scarifier depth. So, I will need three remotes. I was just wondering how helpful the float feature would be for any of the three as I have never used such a set-up. I have some experience with a plain box scraper on my smaller Kubota, no rear hydraulics on that one.

Every rotating hydraulic actuated ripper set that I have ever seen is intended to be either raised up or locked down in the lower position. The scarifiers were never intended to be used in any in-between position. If you need a different depth, then hand adjust the scarifiers in their mount.

Regarding the side link, I have only seen 2 of the OEM T&T sets for a 110 and neither of them had the slot & guide setup to match the left side link.
Last thing, the top link is not built to provide the optimal working range. The ones that I have seen provided about 2" of retraction and 6" of extension from the implement level point front-back. The side link is designed to be fully retracted when level, so all you get is tilt down on the right side.

 

[old and tired]

...I was just wondering how helpful the float feature would be...

If your cylinders have double pilot operated check valve like below; then float would not work until you remove it.

Me personally, I don't see a need for float. If I did, I would just use my front end loader, in float, dragging it backwards. Some people use float on their toplink on mowers. I just don't connect the top links to my mowers...