Hydraulics Requirement for Grader/Box Scraper

[MtnViewRanch]

If your cylinders have double pilot operated check valve like below; then float would not work until you remove it.

Me personally, I don't see a need for float. If I did, I would just use my front end loader, in float, dragging it backwards. Some people use float on their toplink on mowers. I just don't connect the top links to my mowers...

Without writing a book on the subject, everyone's surface that they work with is not flat.

If you are looking for a smooth surface and the grade transitions as you go around a corner or in a Y in a drive surface or S curves, depending on how drastic the grade differences might be, having the implement follow the ground vs following the tractor can make for a far superior finish with the side link in float. You are looking for independent motion from the left and right sides through the transition areas of the grade.

Without using the float feature, you often end up either digging in or dropping material where you do not want that to happen.
If all a person works with is flat or very gentle transitions, then no big deal. But if you have more drastic changes, then making use of the float feature can make for a very nice finished grade.

 

[threepiece]

Well to be sure I don’t know if my T&T is JD OEM. I bought it and the Frontier box grader at auction about four years ago. The owner had a 110 and an array of JD attachments for it that appeared to be unused. The story was that he was starting a business years ago but got sick and later died.

My assumption is the T&T is original JD. It does have a slot on the side link. I have only the cylinders, hoses and lower lift arms, no attaching hardware.

 

[old and tired]

So this getting mounted to your John Deere 110 TLB? ...or the Kubota 3400?

 

[paulsharvey]

Every rotating hydraulic actuated ripper set that I have ever seen is intended to be either raised up or locked down in the lower position. The scarifiers were never intended to be used in any in-between position. If you need a different depth, then hand adjust the scarifiers in their mount.

Regarding the side link, I have only seen 2 of the OEM T&T sets for a 110 and neither of them had the slot & guide setup to match the left side link.
Last thing, the top link is not built to provide the optimal working range. The ones that I have seen provided about 2" of retraction and 6" of extension from the implement level point front-back. The side link is designed to be fully retracted when level, so all you get is tilt down on the right side.

I disagree with this; if you look at the dedicated grade tractors; JD-210LE, Case, New Holland, maybe JCB?, built for the specific use. I belive our OP is trying to make a JD-210LE Light; and with a Heavy Duty, 6 ft BB, like a Gannon, or similar, with hydralic scarifiers, being able to control the depth is great when roughing up a bottom lift od rock (or existing), before placing the top lift. You don't actually want to losen up the compact material, just the top inch or two, and prevent "scabbing" with the top lift that isn't really tied into the bottom lift.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You can change the scarifier depth by adjusting them in the square tube that they are mounted in. But that square tube is designed to be up or down, nothing in between. Thats why it locks in the down position if you look, you will see a hook that auto locks when the bar is all the way down.

If a person does try to go in between, there is a good chance that the linkage that operates the ripper bar will snap. I know this, because I have a 6' Gannon with hydraulic actuated scarifiers and my brother snapped the linkage that rotates the rotating bar holding the scarifiers.

It is designed and intended to be either up all the way, or down all the way and locked in place.

 

[paulsharvey]

You can change the scarifier depth by adjusting them in the square tube that they are mounted in. But that square tube is designed to be up or down, nothing in between. Thats why it locks in the down position if you look, you will see a hook that auto locks when the bar is all the way down.

If a person does try to go in between, there is a good chance that the linkage that operates the ripper bar will snap. I know this, because I have a 6' Gannon with hydraulic actuated scarifiers and my brother snapped the linkage that rotates the rotating bar holding the scarifiers.

It is designed and intended to be either up all the way, or down all the way and locked in place.

Hmm, ok, I believe you. I just have frequently seen them used in a sorta half engaged use, and didn't realize it was abuse.