hydraulics

[eteagle]

I understand very little of what I've read on the top and tilt threads but would like to have that refinement. Why can't I use the bucket hydraulic connections for rear implements? What system should I use for the rear hydraulics or should I let the JD dealer decide. They are pretty expensive.

Thanks

Ernie

 

[JATO_RaT]

You actually could use the loader joystick and all the hoses connected to it to operate a top and tilt. Problem is, now your loaders out of commision. Fortunately, all the manufactuers figure that since the tractor has a hydraulic pump and a front and rear end capable of doing various tasks, they make provisions for hydraulics to be used off the rear end. Its just a matter of adding the necessary control valve(s) and taping into the pressure side of the hyd. oil and tying into the hyd. oil return so that all that oil that was once forced into your hydraulic rams can be released and go back for another pressurizing journey. Rat...

P.S. once you use top and tilt particularly on a box scraper or rear blade, you will never want a tractor without it.

 

[skent]

A cheaper way is to but a selector valve. It can divert hydraulic lines to a second set of couplers and you would utilize your joystick contol. I did that on my 1950 Case since it was impossible to purchase anything made for the application (anything new that is). The selector selects between bucket roll and rear coupler, so if I'm using an implement that needs Hyd in the back, I disable the bucket roll and that locks the bucket where it was and the rear outlets come ALIVE! And I can still use bucket lift if I need to.

Steve

 

[scotd1]

What model JD tractor are you talking about? There's probably someone on the board that can help you if they know which model you have. The JD dealer wanted an arm and a leg to add 2 remotes onto my 5410 ($1000 not including the hoses!) I got directions and added 3 rear remotes for alot less than that.

 

[cooker]

Where did you find the directions? Does anyone have a service manual on thier tractor? Are they any good?

 

[Estif]

JD service manuals are outstanding. Or at least the one that goes with mine is excellent. Beats the Haynes and Chiltons books for cars and trucks easily. Highly recommended.

Not that the service manuals will tell you how to add things on, except maybe for JD field upgrades. You'd still be on your own for plumbing up some custom hydraulics. I'm planning to add three remotes out the back myself - just not in the immediate future. If I could look at your tractor with you, I believe I could point to where everything needs to go, but I have no confidence in making it clear in prose. I'm just starting to collect catalogs to know where to get all the parts, too, so I wouldn't be much help there. I've been meaning for a while to post a sketch of what I'm planning to do and let everyone tell me if I have any conceptual problems. Just gotta find time to make the sketch. This is lunch break. The tractor's been helping me make holes and set posts for its new home.

Steve

 

[Doublezero]

How much less? Do you have any pictures? This sounds like something else I need to investigate for my tractor.

BTW, I noticed you are in TN. I was born and raised in West TN. Ever heard of Chester County?

00

 

[scotd1]

It's quite a bit less depending on how many remotes you want to add. A 3 spool valve is quite a bit more than a 1 spool valve and of course whether you use one cylinder(tip)or two(and tilt). You need to look in the manual or find someone to tell how to hook up power beyond on your particular model of tractor, this is the same thing you would do if you were to add a backhoe to your tractor. When you hook up a backhoe thru the power beyond hook up you are adding a 2 or 3 spool valve and some cylinders. My manual was pretty vague about all of this and I was lucky enough to find a mechanic to set down and draw it out for me (showing the pump ports and hyd. line layout). If the mechanics at your dealership are familiar with hooking up backhoes they should be able to show you how to do this.

 

[FarmerSteve]

When I added a set of outlets to my 1070 I didn't want the hassle of plugging and unplugging a set of cables into the loader outlets to get power to a set of rear outlets. So I bought a "DPDT" selector valve from Northern Hydraulics (using electrical jargon, but it works just like the switch) Two short hoses run from the tractor's bucket-dump outlets to the middle ports of the valve, then two outlets run to the bucket and the other two run to the rear outlets. This permits a selection between the bucket dump which becomes disabled when you choose rear outlets. I've discovered now on my new 4700 (don't tell me, someone, that the 1070 had this too!) that the dealer will add one set of rear outlets for about $200 but two sets cost $900. I ordered the single set and await installation. The reason only one set is so much cheaper is that the SCV for the loader has third valving capability (I can see the shape of the third spool and the blocked ports in the valve body) which can simply be tapped for the one set of outlets, but if you go for two sets of outlets, then another valve and associated plumbing must be added. I'm looking forward to seeing how the SCV valve will operate to trigger the 5th and 6th functions connected with the rear outlets.