HydrauLink- a self-contained air over hydraulic top link

[HydrauLink]

The videos show the "washboard" effect happening when the "give and take" is pointed out in the top arm. Trying to show that this cushion effect is good (for the operator) is one thing, but every move in and out creates the "washboard" effect on the ground.

Don't think you can pull the wool over enough eyes to compare this to a hydraulic top link. It is a great and clever replacement for the screw-type link, but at a hydraulic top link price.
I see it wrong to imply in the advertising that it is a substitute for a hydraulic top link.
It is a handier replacement for the screw-type (for some applications, but not all).
That is my only bone to pick.

Fair enough, but our website lays it out in the first sentence on the main page, "It might be easier to start by saying what it is not. HydrauLink is not a hydraulic ram at least not in the traditional sense." The last thing any of us would want to do is "pull the wool over" your eyes. That's bad business.

HydrauLink uses hydraulic fluid, air pressure and gravity to hold the cylinder in place in addition to providing a few extra benefits that you simply cannot get from a screwjack or a typical HTL. It is it's own creature altogether. HydrauLink is a device built to compete with those designs... not act like them. You simply cannot find another unit that will do the same things it can do. Give it a chance. You might be pleasantly surprised.

 

[beppington]

HydrauLink would seem to make reducing/ lowering an implement's angle easier & faster, but I'm not sure I see any other real benefits.

I don't know why you'd want the "shock absorber" effect? If you want to dig firmly with the blade of your box blade, isn't the shock absorber effect going to reduce your blade's "diggin" power, or downward force?

This would seem to be giving your box blade a Cadillac ride, when I think in most cases it actually needs a tank ride. Was this done because HydrauLink isn't strong enough to handle a tank ride?

I guess if you're using your box blade, & don't want it to "float" somewhat, you just remove the HydrauLink & put your standard screw-type top link back in.

 

[HydrauLink]

To be fair I don't think they sell them for quite that much. Hydraulic top links are about $350 if memory serves. This thing can be bought from AgriSupply for about $225 so more than a few cents less. Of course it really is more a convenience substitute for the screw type which only costs about $35 bucks. Is it worth almost $200 extra??? It would be nice to change the toplink length without needing a wrench to secure the setting. I personally hate the screw types so it might be worth it if I was using a boxblade a lot. For mowing probably not such a big deal as I don't change heights that often. I've already got the hydraulic top link so moot point now but I might have been tempted earlier.

I completely understand. The price was something we gave a great deal of thought to. We had the option of buying overseas and dropping the price but we really wanted to be able to say "Made in the USA by an ISO certified manufacturer"... especially in hard times like these. As a result, the product is solid and delivers a great performance.

 

[Baby Grand]

Maybe I don't understand ... if it had a user operated valve that allowed you to cut the air reservoir out of the hydraulic circuit, if desired, then I think this would be a great product. It would allow you to select tank, cadillac, or whatever as your needs changed. The way it's described it seems a little like a knife with a spring between the handle and the blade.
-Jim

 

[kubob]

Well just give some of us TBN guys a few freebie samples to try out and give the results for others to view and buy lots of them - start with me since I suggested this groundbreaking idea! I'll e-mail my address as soon as you can say "sure!"

 

[HydrauLink]

Maybe I don't understand ... if it had a user operated valve that allowed you to cut the air reservoir out of the hydraulic circuit, if desired, then I think this would be a great product. It would allow you to select tank, cadillac, or whatever as your needs changed. The way it's described it seems a little like a knife with a spring between the handle and the blade.
-Jim

no no no no... HydrauLink uses a very specific combination of air pressure and hydraulic fluid to achieve its goals. The implement will not sink, or behave sloppily like you're thinking. Watch both videos (Demonstration video). You'll see no such activity. What you will see is a top link that grades a smooth gravel road without requiring constant adjusting. The cushion of air the implement rides on only gives a limited amount...just enough to cushion your ride while delivering a quality job. No ripples in the road... no sinking or drifting of the implement. During testing, we discovered that if a HydrauLink does give a sloppy performance or is too loose, either its valve was left open or something was wrong with its fluid level. In both cases, they were easily corrected.

 

[beenthere]

To be fair I don't think they sell them for quite that much. Hydraulic top links are about $350 if memory serves. This thing can be bought from AgriSupply for about $225 so more than a few cents less. Of course it really is more a convenience substitute for the screw type which only costs about $35 bucks. Is it worth almost $200 extra??? It would be nice to change the toplink length without needing a wrench to secure the setting. I personally hate the screw types so it might be worth it if I was using a boxblade a lot. For mowing probably not such a big deal as I don't change heights that often. I've already got the hydraulic top link so moot point now but I might have been tempted earlier.

My hydraulic top link was very close to the $225, if memory serves me correctly.
But just need to compare cost to the screw-type cost as that is what it replaces. And a handy replacement for some applications, it appears to be.

 

[beenthere]

............During testing, we discovered that if a HydrauLink does give a sloppy performance or is too loose, either its valve was left open or something was wrong with its fluid level. In both cases, they were easily corrected.

What is done to correct the wrong fluid level?
Would that be a warranty job, or can it be a DIY project? Are there any special tools or gauges needed to re-introduce fluid for the correct air/fluid balance?
The air/fluid combination seems to be a delicate balance in a self-contained system.

 

[HydrauLink]

What is done to correct the wrong fluid level?
Would that be a warranty job, or can it be a DIY project? Are there any special tools or gauges needed to re-introduce fluid for the correct air/fluid balance?
The air/fluid combination seems to be a delicate balance in a self-contained system.

This has not been an issue we've had to deal with as far as customers are concerned, only in testing. But with volume sales, it's bound to happen at some point. Should this occur, it will be covered under warranty or more advanced users might be able to add a small amount of fluid themselves with assistance from us.

Now, you're not supposed to open the painted ports on HydrauLink to avoid messing it up but, one thing I've learned about the tractor community as a whole is that they love to tinker. Maybe we'd better brace for that.

I sense a new instructional video coming on... :laughing:

 

[beenthere]

Begs the next question...what is the warranty? For life? The screw-type being the competition here.
Seals will go, and need to be replaced and the fluid/air added back. Is this going to be a DIY job? Like tear it down like a hydraulic cylinder, put in new seals, and put it back together with fluid/air in the correct proportions?
I am getting the picture that it is not possible. So, without a life-time warranty, what say you?
Sorry, don't mean to hassle, but these questions come up with this product.