Hydro leak...TC24DA

djradz · Apr 11, 2005

My guess is you've probably already contacted other dealers for the part, but if not, you may want to see if some other one can be a little more responsive. Most any dealer will take your order right over the phone and ship directly to you - all you need is a credit card.

You probably know this too as you appear to have had no problems getting this far, but none the less. Assuming the shaft is straight and bearings still good, that seal was likely damaged on installation. Seeing that splined shaft, that was the first thing that came to my mind. When you put the new one in, try covering the splines with thin tape, somthing like packaging tape. Masking or duct tape may be too think. It that won't work, make sure there are no sharp edges on the splines. A light sanding of each surely won't hurt. Anyway, you probably know all this anyway, so good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Catmando · Apr 14, 2005

Is that seal so non standard that a good bearing supply house wouldn't have one??

TCBoomer · May 1, 2005

I finally got the seal kit last Monday. Only took 3 weeks...course it seemed like 3 months /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

When I removed the old seal and inspected it, I really didn't find any damage. Disappointed??...yes, I was. I was hoping to at least find a nick or something, but it looked fine. Since I have seen undamaged seals leak before, I'll have to rely on that experience and just install a new one. IIRC, RickB said he's seen these seals leak as well.

Now the real fun begins, reassembly... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

TCBoomer · May 1, 2005

Back together...

TCBoomer · May 1, 2005

steering column and wiring/relays re-installed

TCBoomer · May 1, 2005

fuel tank...

TCBoomer · May 1, 2005

body panels, dash and hood re-installed...

TCBoomer · May 1, 2005

This was the last piece, and it was a royal pain in the neck to install. Probably would have been nice to have a helper, but it was late at night when I did it.

Besides being fairly heavy and awkward to install, one of the lines to the diverter valve was slightly tweaked. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get the line started without stripping it, but finally ended up disconnecting the other end at the joy stick controls, so I could get it started straight. However, this task involved removing several other lines as well.

TCBoomer · May 1, 2005

Overall, the job went well. Filled up the hydro oil and fuel, and got it started. HEY...it still runs and moves /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I did have one minor problem though. The hydro pedal did not return to center. The tractor would move forward by itself, unless I pushed in the clutch. UH OH! I thought...what the heck did I do wrong? Even though I removed some of the linkage hardware, I didn't touch the adjustment.

Then I realized the bolt holes for the brackets were sloppy enough to cause the mechanism to be out of adjustment. Simple fix...I jacked up the tractor and just shifted the brackets until the wheels didn't move anymore. Worked perfect after that.