Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I will desent a little bit... just because it's a wally world oil don't make it rhino pee.
Last I checked.. warren makes lots of wally world oil.
Past that... many of us with lots of equipment or larger equipment could be running into many times the cost when considering a generic utf vs a name brand. For instance.. around here I hav ethe choice of 60$ NH ambra gold 134G.. or 35$+ tsc utf.. or 25$ supertech UTF. Considering I have tractors that take 13G each of the stuff, plus a few others that take over 8g each.. when you add all that up.. I could buy an extra antique tractor every couple years with the money I save on buying the oil that is 1/3rd the price... not to mention I can actually change the oil at 2x better intervals than in the manual, and still be ahead of the $$ game by 1/3..e tc.
My biggest, most expensive diesel.. my NH 7610s.. it's had supertech in it since I got it. I had it in at the dealer to repalce a hyd valve that had a factor defect ( not a lube related failure ).. and while they had it.. I had them check the hyd system out. I believe the exact words from the service managers mouth was that he had not seen a machine that had a cleaner / better looking hyd system, based on the hours..e tc.. relief and other valves were working perfectly as well as the pump, power steering.. wet brakes.. etc.
not everything is a cheaper = junk issue.
Sure.. a 5$ prybar from harbor freight vs a 25$ prybar from sears is probably gonna yeild a bent chinese prybar long before the craftsman.
I'd even give you that if you did an oil anylisis that the supertech oil may not 'last' as long as a more spendy brand.. but.. if the price offset is such that you can change it 2x to 3x more often for less or the same money.. that sounds like the ticket... the more you change it.. the more contaminates and water you get out of the system, and if you look at averages... if brand A oil lasts 200 hrs inthe hyds before needing changed.. but costs 3x of what brand B costs.. and brand B needs to be changed at 100 hrs.. then if you change out brand B twice.. you are ahead in the $$ department, and looking at average oil life.. the brand B gives you longer average time of being 'new' setting int he tractor sump.. IE.. at 100 hrs into the work, the brand a oil is half old.. the brand b oil is brand new...
soundguy
Last I checked.. warren makes lots of wally world oil.
Past that... many of us with lots of equipment or larger equipment could be running into many times the cost when considering a generic utf vs a name brand. For instance.. around here I hav ethe choice of 60$ NH ambra gold 134G.. or 35$+ tsc utf.. or 25$ supertech UTF. Considering I have tractors that take 13G each of the stuff, plus a few others that take over 8g each.. when you add all that up.. I could buy an extra antique tractor every couple years with the money I save on buying the oil that is 1/3rd the price... not to mention I can actually change the oil at 2x better intervals than in the manual, and still be ahead of the $$ game by 1/3..e tc.
My biggest, most expensive diesel.. my NH 7610s.. it's had supertech in it since I got it. I had it in at the dealer to repalce a hyd valve that had a factor defect ( not a lube related failure ).. and while they had it.. I had them check the hyd system out. I believe the exact words from the service managers mouth was that he had not seen a machine that had a cleaner / better looking hyd system, based on the hours..e tc.. relief and other valves were working perfectly as well as the pump, power steering.. wet brakes.. etc.
not everything is a cheaper = junk issue.
Sure.. a 5$ prybar from harbor freight vs a 25$ prybar from sears is probably gonna yeild a bent chinese prybar long before the craftsman.
I'd even give you that if you did an oil anylisis that the supertech oil may not 'last' as long as a more spendy brand.. but.. if the price offset is such that you can change it 2x to 3x more often for less or the same money.. that sounds like the ticket... the more you change it.. the more contaminates and water you get out of the system, and if you look at averages... if brand A oil lasts 200 hrs inthe hyds before needing changed.. but costs 3x of what brand B costs.. and brand B needs to be changed at 100 hrs.. then if you change out brand B twice.. you are ahead in the $$ department, and looking at average oil life.. the brand B gives you longer average time of being 'new' setting int he tractor sump.. IE.. at 100 hrs into the work, the brand a oil is half old.. the brand b oil is brand new...
soundguy
Wayne County Hose said:Okay, you last 3 posters, you are still using good quality oil to begin. Kendall and Mobil are high quality lubes. I'm talking about the people that do hours of research, go to 4 different brand/dealers, kick tires for months, finally spend 30 grand plus on a machine, then put the cheapest Wally World oil they can find on their discount rack. They buy the 50 cent tube of grease, the no name gear oil. I'm not saying you have to buy your fluids from the dealer or use synthetics. But put all that effort into choosing a machine, spend all that money on it, and say friggit with the lubricants?
I know there are those out there that may say,
"My tractor has 10,xxx hours on it and all I ever used was oil from the flea market." I just don't understand the reasoning. I also know that many like to keep their equipment/vehicles all original, but changing the fluids doesn't mean it's not "original" anymore.