Flail Mower I Bent The Shaft On My Center Link

[greg_g]

Does your 3pt float up and down? I've backed up with mine or ran across humps and holes and the lift arms just raise up and fall down as they need. My mower doesn't even have a slotted hole that I remember.

When adjusted properly, all three points will float. Most common error made by those that disagree, is failing to adjust the vertical links to an adequate length. But that just takes into account the vertical float (up/down), there's usually minimal horizontal float (independent right/left). However, some of the better mowers feature floating lift pin receivers where they connect to the tractors lower lift arms. This permits further horizontal float. My Jacobsen flail has these, as does my First Choice finish mower.

No such upper slot on my Jacobsen either. Until viewing those Caroni photos, I'd never even seen one before.

//greg//

 

[tommu56]

You clearly have never used a flail mower. Cutting height is set by lengthening or shortening the toplink. I haven't met anyone yet who's had any success in pushing a chain.

//greg//

I didn't notice the flail mower just the top link being bent ad the slotted hole.

Whats the slot for?

tom

 

[TDVT]

No such upper slot on my Jacobsen though. Until viewing those Caroni photos, I'd never even seen one before. //greg//

There was some discussion about top-link slots in one of the mega-threads ("Let's talk Flail mowers", I think) with a few guys who have alot of hours with these things.

Anyway, I have the larger Caroni & set up my top-link so that the rear pin is in the center of the slot when it's on level ground, to get float both forward & backward. The cut is very nice.

I DID break a lift arm link last year when my rear wheel dropped in a hole & the tractor twisted in relation to the mower. These mishaps are the cost of doing business I guess.

 

[greg_g]

I have the larger Caroni & set up my top-link so that the rear pin is in the center of the slot when it's on level ground, to get float both forward & backward.

I suspected as much. Caroni's an entry level implement manufacturer. So I'm guessing this is their entry level answer to the floating pin receivers on the more expensive flails

//greg//

 

[dennis33]

Thanks to everyone for their replies to my problem.

I guess that adding a chain in my case won't work safely.

I think that I'll rotate the bent link 180 degrees, keep it shorter and lower the skid bars and roller on the flail so I don't bottom out as often and take some strain off the link. I did have my hand on the 3PH Rockshaft control lever the entire time, raising and lowering the flail as needed.

I'll also look a some more pictures in the photo gallery and forums here to see if my A-frame is really mounted backwards. I assumed that the dealer knew how to do it right!!:laughing:

About the PTO shaft - I did take off 4" but it was still a tight squeeze between the tractor and mower. Maybe another inch would have made it easier. Is there any reason that I couldn't take off another 2-3 inches? How much can we safely take off these shafts?

I'm glad that I had to take it apart to shorten it since wanted to add more grease to it. Is that a common thing to do (add grease to a new PTO shaft) or just assume that it's been done by the manufacturer?

Wow... too many questions.

Thanks again,

Dennis (going to my barn this weekend to finish the job)

 

[RoyJackson]

About the PTO shaft - I did take off 4" but it was still a tight squeeze between the tractor and mower. Maybe another inch would have made it easier. Is there any reason that I couldn't take off another 2-3 inches? How much can we safely take off these shafts?

I'm glad that I had to take it apart to shorten it since wanted to add more grease to it. Is that a common thing to do (add grease to a new PTO shaft) or just assume that it's been done by the manufacturer?

You want to keep about 4-6 inches overlap...I wouldn't go less then 4" when fully extended between your tractor and implement.
As far as greasing, my manuals for the RFM, cutter and chipper all state greasing the PTO shaft once a season, but more wouldn't hurt.

 

[dennis33]

Thanks again to all for your comments.

TDVT hit the old nail on the head! Although I've seen some pictures of the slot at an angle (I think that Island Tractor has his like that), it didn't work for me. I rotated the A-frame and spent 3.5 hours mowing. In the first hour I probably spent more time looking backwards at the top link than where I was going!:laughing:

Everything looked great and I continued mowing the 3 acres without any problems.

Things were going so smooth that I let my wife work the field for awhile!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/data/540/medium/IMG_9410.JPG

Thanks Again!

Dennis

 

[IslandTractor]

You are not the first or last to bend a toplink. I've bent one mechanical toplink and one hydraulic one. Luckily the hydraulic one still works it just looks a bit like a banana. I recall I bent both of mine with the boxblade.

 

[Dead Horse]

You clearly have never used a flail mower. Cutting height is set by lengthening or shortening the toplink. I haven't met anyone yet who's had any success in pushing a chain.

//greg//

I do not agree.....

I run a Seppi 10 foot HD flail to cut my orchard. I use the lower links and the rear roller on the mower to "set" cutting height. A chain is perfect for my application as I only use the top link setting to raise the whole mower off the ground, in rare instances when necessary.

I would run it as a semi mount all the time except that it is usually in an offset position and the top link keeps the frame lined up with the rear center of the tractor.

So, not everyone with a LOT of experience, views it your way.

 

[rjkobbeman]

I'm curious why the top links are getting bent. I have never used a flail mower. Why are the top links bending instead of the whole 3 point hitch moving up when going over ruts/hills? Is something binding so the hitch does not raise?