i bought a 8N

sid79 · Feb 23, 2014

I bought a tractor yesterday.. it wasn't totally planned, I had some money set aside for a horse trailer, and then this tractor pops up on craigslist... 800$

I ended up paying 720$

I could only find a dolly, not a real trailer to transport it, that was fun, max speed I drove was 20mph :laughing:

everything works, but.. all the fluids need to be changed as they are yukkie (the rear axle fluid has water in it) and it has a light knock.. it starts up very easy.. its not a nice tractor, its a work tractor.
I drove it in my garage where im going to check all the bearings and fix the knock.. and paint it... but ill keep it as a work horse, its not going to turn into a nice show tractor.

its not THE tractor I wanted, but it will get me started and didn't break the bank... off coarse I still need a horse trailer

anyway today I started tearing it apart:

the headlights were direct wired by the previous owner, so I removed all that wiring, I need to sort trough that GM alternator thing, it appears that there are too many wires and it would work with less..
I really like working on it, soo simple... I am just limited by the tools that I have... mine are too small

ill dig down on the engine until I find whats knocking, and the wife can have some fun with a wirebrush and some red paint

deerseeker001 · Feb 23, 2014

Good buy have fun working on it.

MIKE R · Feb 23, 2014

Looks like you got a good deal on it.

I have to wonder how water got into the rear axle.

Your quick engine fix and paint might turn into a full out restoration.

You can find some good information on it at tractordata.com.

murphy1244 · Feb 23, 2014

This is what I'm doing to a MF135 When this dam winter is over.

Cvans · Feb 23, 2014

Nice find. Before you get too concerned about the knock I would finish changing fluids. Check the oil that is drained from the engine for metal particles. The knock might be nothing more than a little piston slap. If this is the case it will go away when the engine is under load. If it is a rod or wrist pin it will get louder under load. A little piston slap won't hurt anything and the engine very likely will run for years just fine. If it's a rod or wrist pin immediate attention is called for. The water in the rear end or gear boxes is not that uncommon for tractors parked outdoors. It is usually an accumulation of condensation which occurs from heating and cooling during the day and night. In the fall I try and remember to go around and loosen the drain plugs and see if there is any water. Let it drain off before tightening the plug again. I've seen the bull gears in tractor differentials frozen solid from this water.
Good luck with your project and keep the photos coming.

2458n · Feb 24, 2014

X2 on the condensed water in the rear. Looks like nice straight sheet metal. Did they have any implements to go with it? That was a heck of a price. I would have probably forgot to dicker over the price. This is not the type tractor where you have to hunt parts- most are available. Enjoy your find.

LD1 · Feb 24, 2014

Nice buy. But that isn't entirely an 8n. The front end is 8n. But the rear is 9n/2n. You can tell by the large wheel bolt pattern. Those old tractors had lots of parts Interchange, and it is common to find an N made out of several N's.

The water likely got in around the shifter boot. Its a trouble area.

How many speeds is the trans?

Kirk-NJ · Feb 24, 2014

LD1 said:
Nice buy. But that isn't entirely an 8n. The front end is 8n. But the rear is 9n/2n. You can tell by the large wheel bolt pattern. Those old tractors had lots of parts Interchange, and it is common to find an N made out of several N's.

The water likely got in around the shifter boot. Its a trouble area.

How many speeds is the trans?

It's an 8n. If you look close at the rear rim those are wheel weights. Although the hood appears to be a 2n.

Good luck with your project.
Knock might also be coming from hydraulics. Just something to check before getting into the engine.

LD1 · Feb 24, 2014

Kirk-NJ said:
It's an 8n. If you look close at the rear rim those are wheel weights. Although the hood appears to be a 2n.

Good luck with your project.
Knock might also be coming from hydraulics. Just something to check before getting into the engine.

Right you are:thumbsup: I missed that looking at the small pic on my smartphone. But it is clear as a bell no looking at it on my computer.

motownbrowne · Feb 24, 2014

I thought they were weights too, makes that price tag even better.

Cvans · Feb 24, 2014

Knock might also be coming from hydraulics.

That's a good suggestion. The pump on my 850 makes a knocking sound when it cavitates in real cold weather. Actually had to get off the tractor and listen because I thought it was the engine. When I activated the loader it would go away.

Soundguy · Feb 25, 2014

is the knock from the rear pump? they do tend to knock a bit.

sid79 · Feb 27, 2014

arghh...now you all made me to re-assemble the thing this week so I can pinpoint the knock

I mean if I don't need to rebuild the engine, I would be happy to save myself the work.

ill let ya know what I find

Soundguy · Feb 27, 2014

if you hear a knock with the pto not engaged and clutch pushed. look forward of the trans

wolc123 · Mar 1, 2014

Is the distributer on the front or the side of the engine? Does it have a proof-meter on the dash? If it has that, it is a 1951 or 52 8n, and that is my favorite tractor of all time. A 1951 was also the first tractor that I ever purchased myself. more than 25 years ago, and I still use regularly today. If it turns out that you have to rebuild the engine, your deal was so-so. If you don't, then you certainly got a steal. A lot of folks, on this site, hate the lack of live hydraulics especially, and also the lack of live pto a little bit (easily compensated for thru the use of a $75 TSC over-running coupler). Definitely get one of them couplers before you try and run a bush-hog (or any pto tool). I can tell you with certainty, that of 6 tractors total on our 2 farms, the other 5, have live hydraulics, 2 also have live pto, I still like that 1951, 8n the best even though it has neither. I don't find it much, if any more difficult to get the job done with the 8n than with the modern machines. Also, it is easier to change implements on, than any other. It has also been my most dependable tractor, and the one I put the most hours on. If I had to choose between my wife, who I love dearly, and that tractor, it might be a toss-up. I am sure you will grow to like your's a whole lot after getting it back into shape.

Kirk-NJ · Mar 1, 2014

Years ago I bought a TE20 ferguson that the PO told me it had an engine knock. I figured The tractor would be a good parts tractor. Got to his house and winched it on the trailer and never even started it. When I got it home I fooled around with it and found out it was the hydraulic pump knocking. Put a used pump I had laying aroung and it's been running ever since. Pays to at least check it out before getting into the engine.
It was one of the better $300 tractor I ever bought.

Kirk

Soundguy · Mar 1, 2014

yep.. them scotch yoke pumps do knock pretty good when worn a bit

sid79 · Mar 1, 2014

to answer some questions:

the distributor is on the front.
I do not know what a proofmeter is...
its a 4 speed with reverse

these are the only ID I could find on the tractor:

here another picture:

the seller did not know what year it was...

Soundguy · Mar 1, 2014

it's a front mount. you can tell cause the genny used to be on the right.

that is a RAISED casting mark.

thwe SN of the engine is on the left side of the block, just below head, right of the oil canister.. kinda above the starter a few inches, is lightly stamped on a 1x4 flattened boss.

all 8n start with 8n, all 9n/2n start with 9n

all N engines swap.

look at axle trumpets for date castings. see if they are within 3-4m of the engine sn when you date it. if so.. likely came together..